mixed gas

if the engine just stopped after the last time you ran it and you didnt try starting it, a ring could have caught in a port and jammed it up, or a circlip that keeps the wrist pin in came off and caused hell (had this happen with a PU clip in my snowmobile, took a new cylinder with it...). Cant really think of anything else that would cause it to seize up with that little run time on it.
 
Well i have not gotten any pictures yet (have to upload) but i have discovered a quarter sized piece of metal that got wedged in the crank, it shot up after i got it carefully unstuck, the piston was not seized in there the crank was jammed.... When i pulled the head off i was able to just push the piston down and the crank shot the metal to the top and i grabbed it out of there.

Also looks like it had a piece of silicone (light grey color) that came up with it?
Not sure what the metal is, i dont think its an old piston fragment or anything because its not smooth on either side but it is shaped of some sort....

Ill get pics up but can anybody help me ID what it could be if its not a piston fragment?

Do you think it should have just been floating around in a motor that was supposed to be "bolt on and go" but never went since i got it? This thing only ran for the length of the video i made (i think 40sec. or so long) and thats it since i pulled it out of the box because it would never start..... It was supposed to be a perfect motor.
 
Here are the best pics i could get..... :(
 

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Here are some more, these have the metal piece and silicone looking piece in it.....
 

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That piece looks like it's part of the center cases. You may have a huge air leak ( why it wont start ). Try to blow a little air into the tube that comes out of the top of the cases. Make sure the oil fill cap is on when you do this. Listen to see if the air is coming out of the crank case. If it does, you have broken cases from the crankcase to the transmission.
 
How did it happen? Something must have caused this, and should it have been ok to sell a motor like that as running when it wasnt?

Also can the blow test be done with the top end off or do i have to put it back on?
 
well it needs to be air tight so either put it back on or figure out how to block it off but it has to be air tight w/ no leaks
 
Don't put the top end back on. Do the test with it off. The transmission is sealed from the crankcase. If you can blow air freely into the hose (with your mouth ) , the cases are broken. I bought an engine off of Ebay and had the same problem. The dude said it was all set. I dove in for a rebuild and had a huge piece broken out of the case. He gave me a refund of $100 so I could buy new cases. Blasters are very dependable and a lot of guys like to run them till they die. The problem is, when they die, it's usually because the piston has cracked because of piston slap. If the piston skirts break off, they go into the crank case and take out the thin spot between the crankcase and the balance shaft. Look inside of the crankcase at the top and to the back. You're probably going to see where the cases are damaged. Good luck and let me know if I can help.
 
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Thanks for the help guys, the air test revealed: Nothing LOL (yet)


Drum roll........ dun dun da...... :-/ oops here ya go...


I have to wait until later, im deaf in one ear, so it was hard to tell where the sound was coming from, but when i blew in the tube i could hear it blowing around down in there where the crank comes up through, but couldn't tell where, the air has to go somewhere so i dont know if it was leaking where it should or shouldn't.....

Gotta recruit a friend for this one i think....
 
Well i wrote a nice long email to the person i got it from, to see if they can or are willing to work with me before in contact paypal, but i have been taken on this motor and its not right!

I paid almost $600 for this "Bolt n go" motor that never had any "go" to it, and the only time it starts, it gets a piece of metal wedged in the crank, from the air leak causing it to not start...... Thats not a "bolt n go" motor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The guy couldn't even give me an honest answer on the oil block off, i asked if it was blocked off before i bought it and i was told it was not blocked off, so i ordered the kit and wait 2 weeks for it to get here to open the motor up and find out it was already blocked off, so it sat here for 2 weeks before i could even see if it ran just to find out it does not run..... How fun!!

Any trustworthy people here want to sell me a real "good running motor" when i get my money back from this one? LOL
 
Thats a load of crap man! Get yo money back .. Everyone seems to be gettin junk motors of ebay these days ! WTF is it with people and being soo damn dishonest !
 
yeah that sucks man you really gotta watch ebay sometimes... as long as you used paypal you'll be good under buyer protection, you can just start a claim it takes a while but always works for me.
 
Thanks guys!

Yeah i emailed him, but you know it goes, its the oh its your fault crap. It was like that from the minute it got bolted into my bike, i never got a chance to drive it anywhere....

Its just more crap i have to deal with, or have the bottom end redone in this and that will cost me money i shouldn't have to spend on a "ready to ride" motor you know?
 
I feel for you too. That's how all this started with my blaster! Since I picked it up in person, fleabay wouldn't do anything. The "fresh" engine it had gave out in 1 hour because all the JB weld fell out and the balance shaf sprcket bolt backed off. I stopped riding it when it started to vibrate so bad, then the oil leaks.....If that hadn't happened, it would have failed anyway because of the 180 main jet I found during rebuild. I never trust anyone on ebay after that crap anymore.

Stick with it and you'll have something YOU built. Something you know what you've got.
 
I haven't read but 2 or 3 pages on this thread but when mine wouldn't fire, it was because my TORS was unhooked and i had the computer plugged in...after i unhooked the tors computer, it fired in 1 kick!