I don't need to pull the crank completly out. I just need to reseal it and replace the crank seals just so I cover my bases.
jetting problems after spending $2000 on mods
- Thread starter turbowrenchhead
- Start date
It loses because its leaking at my exhaust block. I sprayed it down with soap and there are no external leaks. I can't rule out the seals. I ordered new ones.
Ohhhh. I use a cometic exhaust gasket over my piece of inner tube, seals great, I have found that the innertube will leak if you do not use something betwen that and the flange!
i've found this style of pipe plug works better and simpler than the flange/rubber for sealing the exhaust for leakdown tests.....
Shop Oatey 1.5"Dia. PVC Pipe Plug Fitting at Lowes.com=
i think the 1 1/2" is what fit ?? measure to be sure
Shop Oatey 1.5"Dia. PVC Pipe Plug Fitting at Lowes.com=
i think the 1 1/2" is what fit ?? measure to be sure
I pulled the needle out today and its a DGK needle. Should I get a CEL needle? Its carb parts warehouse the best place to get one?
I still cant get the exhaust side to seal. I'm going to get one of those pipe plugs for a hardware store
I still cant get the exhaust side to seal. I'm going to get one of those pipe plugs for a hardware store
CEL is a leaner needle, just so ya know it has worked for me so far, well until the stuffers blew apart!!
Can't remember if you tried all clip positions on the needle yet? If not I'd drop the clip one step and try that only do one thing at a time or you'll be chasing issue forever! <<<Not that i have ever done that! :-[
But leak test it before you run it please.
Can't remember if you tried all clip positions on the needle yet? If not I'd drop the clip one step and try that only do one thing at a time or you'll be chasing issue forever! <<<Not that i have ever done that! :-[
But leak test it before you run it please.
i'd agree a "D" needle should be in range, leak test and drop/raise the clip for one quick run after a warm up, to see how it reacts,
it is possible to both ....plug chop at 1/2- 3/4
throttle, and also fry sh*t with a too lean neddle setting,
so only one quick run on each clip setting, to see what it's doing, then report back
it is possible to both ....plug chop at 1/2- 3/4
throttle, and also fry sh*t with a too lean neddle setting,
so only one quick run on each clip setting, to see what it's doing, then report back
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I went to ace and home depot to get a pipe plug. I don't know if they are going to work but I'm going to try it.
The 9 in a colder plug. Ken seems to recommend BR9ES plugs to his customers. It should keep the piston a little happier (for longevities sake) but shouldn't affect the immediate ability of the quad to run properly. I do recommend changing out the plug with a new one of your choice (9 if Ken told you to run that) just to confirm that it's not a dead spark plug core...
Some factors to consider in selecting the proper heat range spark plug
There are many external influences that can affect the operating temperature of a spark plug. The following is a brief list to consider in avoiding reduced performance and/or expensive engine damage.
Engine Speed and Load
If the engine is to be operated at high RPM, under a heavy load, or at high temperatures for long periods a colder heat range may be needed.
Conversely, if the engine is to be operated at low speeds or at low temperatures for long periods, a hotter heat range might be needed to prevent fouling.
Air-Fuel Mixture
Excessively rich air-fuel mixtures can cause the plug tip temperatures to decrease and carbon deposits to accumulate, possibly causing fouling and misfires.
Excessively lean air-fuel mixtures can cause the cylinder and plug temperatures to increase, possibly resulting in knock and/or pre-ignition. This may cause damage to the spark plug and/or seriously damage the engine.
If an air-fuel ratio meter or gas analyzer is not available, it will be necessary to visually inspect the spark plugs frequently during the tuning process to determine the proper air-fuel mixture.
Continued...
NGK Spark Plugs USA
There are many external influences that can affect the operating temperature of a spark plug. The following is a brief list to consider in avoiding reduced performance and/or expensive engine damage.
Engine Speed and Load
If the engine is to be operated at high RPM, under a heavy load, or at high temperatures for long periods a colder heat range may be needed.
Conversely, if the engine is to be operated at low speeds or at low temperatures for long periods, a hotter heat range might be needed to prevent fouling.
Air-Fuel Mixture
Excessively rich air-fuel mixtures can cause the plug tip temperatures to decrease and carbon deposits to accumulate, possibly causing fouling and misfires.
Excessively lean air-fuel mixtures can cause the cylinder and plug temperatures to increase, possibly resulting in knock and/or pre-ignition. This may cause damage to the spark plug and/or seriously damage the engine.
If an air-fuel ratio meter or gas analyzer is not available, it will be necessary to visually inspect the spark plugs frequently during the tuning process to determine the proper air-fuel mixture.
Continued...
NGK Spark Plugs USA
Get back to basics.
You do not need a colder plug, you cannot get the engine running hot enough to get on pipe yet.
The way you would determine if you need one is the same plug chop you haven't done yet.
Have you checked the float level? Is your timing on? Air cleaner clean? Pipe clean? Silencer open?
Main jet is for full throttle only (yeah, I know there is some overlap, but don't make it too complicated).
If you are not getting to full throttle, you are not trying hard enough, just GIVE IT.
Now, what does it do at full throttle? Hold it for as long as safe (judge for mechanical damage 20seconds to a minute),
then pull the plug and have a look at it. If you only held it for 20 seconds, there will not be much indication of mixture, judge accordingly.
Try a different jet, richer or leaner lead by what you saw on the plug and try it again.
Do not be concerned with what happens at 1/2 throttle, that comes later. Full throttle only.
Is it running better? Now what does the plug look like? Keep going.
Only when you have the main jet figured out can you start with the needle (1/2 throttle range).
I change the jets right out on the trail. I pick a hard packed ground so if I drop something I'll find it again.
With some bikes I have to screw the throttle cap off the carb, loosen off the hose clamps and rotate the carb.
With the KTM carb all you have to do is unscrew the big drain plug to change mains. Yours the same?
I am all for your carb sounds too big. Low velocity through the carb means oversize jets have to be used,
mid range power is traded off for a bit more top end. These bikes like mid range, especially if pulling tall sprockets.
My son has done some work with oversized carbs on his 30hp DT200 cylinder and found it gave up too much mid range.
You do not need a colder plug, you cannot get the engine running hot enough to get on pipe yet.
The way you would determine if you need one is the same plug chop you haven't done yet.
Have you checked the float level? Is your timing on? Air cleaner clean? Pipe clean? Silencer open?
Main jet is for full throttle only (yeah, I know there is some overlap, but don't make it too complicated).
If you are not getting to full throttle, you are not trying hard enough, just GIVE IT.
Now, what does it do at full throttle? Hold it for as long as safe (judge for mechanical damage 20seconds to a minute),
then pull the plug and have a look at it. If you only held it for 20 seconds, there will not be much indication of mixture, judge accordingly.
Try a different jet, richer or leaner lead by what you saw on the plug and try it again.
Do not be concerned with what happens at 1/2 throttle, that comes later. Full throttle only.
Is it running better? Now what does the plug look like? Keep going.
Only when you have the main jet figured out can you start with the needle (1/2 throttle range).
I change the jets right out on the trail. I pick a hard packed ground so if I drop something I'll find it again.
With some bikes I have to screw the throttle cap off the carb, loosen off the hose clamps and rotate the carb.
With the KTM carb all you have to do is unscrew the big drain plug to change mains. Yours the same?
I am all for your carb sounds too big. Low velocity through the carb means oversize jets have to be used,
mid range power is traded off for a bit more top end. These bikes like mid range, especially if pulling tall sprockets.
My son has done some work with oversized carbs on his 30hp DT200 cylinder and found it gave up too much mid range.
Reasons for using a different heat range plug.
If the engine is to be operated at high RPM, under a heavy load, or at high temperatures for long periods a colder heat range may be needed.
Conversely, if the engine is to be operated at low speeds or at low temperatures for long periods, a hotter heat range might be needed to prevent fouling.
If the engine is to be operated at high RPM, under a heavy load, or at high temperatures for long periods a colder heat range may be needed.
Conversely, if the engine is to be operated at low speeds or at low temperatures for long periods, a hotter heat range might be needed to prevent fouling.
I got my new cap plug today and it had 4.3k ohms of resistance. Quite a bit less then the old one. I pulled the motor out and apart as much as I could. I have to take it to the dealer to have the magneto and case pulled apart Monday. There is plenty of rubs marks on the piston all the way around it. I ordered a new set of rings and I'm going to have the cylinder rehoned.
That heating around the area of the exhaust side of the piston crown, points to a lean mixture to me.
As I stated before in earlier posts when I go to full throttle it doesn't do anything. I've held it to full throttle for a few seconds. Once past 1/4 to 1/3 throttle it levels off and I don't feel any power increase.
I'm using the carb that the builder recommend. There are plenty to guys that have built blasters with pretty much the same combination that I'm using without any problems. I didn't buy anything that was out of the norm to what everyone else was doing. When I do a project like this I join a board and do what everyone else is doing and I have had great luck. However with this machine there is a problem that no one can figure out including myself.
I used ultra grey silicone for the case sealant witch is not recommend. So I'm pulling it and correcting the problem. I have new crank seals to install since I have it apart and I can eliminate that possibility of a leaking crankcase causing it to go lean.
I haven't checked timing. I have checked the float level, its ok. I have checked the exhaust pipes with compressed air, seems to flow just fine.
I have a uniflow air filter attached directly to the carb. Its clean and I didn't oil it.
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