Is there supposed to be a gap?
- Thread starter BrianB
- Start date
i would tap the axle towards the left side (like you're sitting on it) with a hammer and block of wood until its tight, then tighten up the nuts.
it would be a good idea after you get it tightened back up to make sure there's no play in the carrier bearings.
it would be a good idea after you get it tightened back up to make sure there's no play in the carrier bearings.
We actually tried that but it didn't move, we where not sure so we didn't hit it to hard. Will give it another try tomorrow.
Thanks for the help.
Isnt there supposed to be a boot in there?
Mine has a small gap between the brake disk hub and the axle spot but its filled in with the boot and the rotor kinda floats in there.
Mine has a small gap between the brake disk hub and the axle spot but its filled in with the boot and the rotor kinda floats in there.
He has hydros...no boot required on it. Regular cable brakes have that boot with a clip holding the rotor on. Your axle isn't all the way flush with the rotor hub. Looks like you got some rust in the splines. Id take the whole axle off, wire brush the rust off the splines, put some anti seize on the splines and reassemble. Just takes all of ten minutes to get the axle off. You want to pull everything out of the right side when you pull the axle. All you have to do is:
1. Put rear end in the air
2. Loosen axle nut in center of wheel
3. Loosen wheel and take it off
4. Take axle nut off
5. Loosen tension off the chain and take it off the sprocket
6. Loosen the 2 axle nuts and take them off the axle
7. Pull Sprocket hub and sprocket off the axle
8. Loosen caliper and take it off the rotor and lay it to the side
9. Pull axle thru the carrier
Once off, you can get the hub off with the rotor on it and get the rust and corrosion off and put the anti seize on it and then try sliding it right on. It should slide flush with the stop on the axle without any force. Then reassemble...you may want to also do this to the splines on the sprocket hub as well.
It's a rather easy fix...
1. Put rear end in the air
2. Loosen axle nut in center of wheel
3. Loosen wheel and take it off
4. Take axle nut off
5. Loosen tension off the chain and take it off the sprocket
6. Loosen the 2 axle nuts and take them off the axle
7. Pull Sprocket hub and sprocket off the axle
8. Loosen caliper and take it off the rotor and lay it to the side
9. Pull axle thru the carrier
Once off, you can get the hub off with the rotor on it and get the rust and corrosion off and put the anti seize on it and then try sliding it right on. It should slide flush with the stop on the axle without any force. Then reassemble...you may want to also do this to the splines on the sprocket hub as well.
It's a rather easy fix...
Nah hydros don't have the boot...this is why a banshee axle requires either a banshee rotor hub or an 03+ rotor hub.
This bike is not mine but we going away this weekend and wanted to take it with. We tried tapping it into place but it wont move, how hard can we hit it, what could be preventing it from moving into place? The person who owns the bike doesn't seem to happy with dismantling it even though it seems simple.
Good luck.....as I mentioned before it's corrosion stopping it and it will only get worse. dismantling will take maybe 15 minutes. If he doesn't want to take the time out for that, then he can live with the gap
The problem is he stripped one of the wheel nuts and that is why he doesn't want to dismantle anything else. If we can safely ride the bike, he will send it in after the weekend.
Is it safe to ride?
Last edited:
You say it won't move, therefore it sure as hell isn't going anywhere. It's not good, but unlikely to get much worse. I would make sure the two big axle locknuts are tight though.
Ok so we have stripped it down and cleaned it, we had to send it in and get someone to use a press to get it loose.
Do I apply the anti seize to the splines? Is it still necessary to use grease on top of the anti seize or is the anti seize sufficient.
Edit: Would the Wheel Bearing Grease and Copper Anti-Seize Grease from the following site be the correct stuff to use.
http://www.swifts.co.za/herschell/greasers.htm
Last edited:
Just anti seize from the local auto parts store. The stuff they give you at the counter for putting on the threads of spark plugs when you do a tune up in your car. Should be in a grayish tube...varies from manufacturer but I believe that is the Permatex kind.
