Installing a grease zert in carrier

manson6

New Member
Mar 22, 2011
43
0
6
San Antonio Tx.
I want to install a grease zert in the rear carrier, And ideas as to what size and where exactly to put it. And also what size bit and tap would you go with. Any help would be appreciated didnt find anything searching for it.
 
most hardware stores and auto part stores sell the kit so you get everything. as long as you put it somewhere that it wont get knocked off during riding you should be good.
 
just go to the hardware store, tell them what ya wanna do, they'll give you a zerk, drill and tap to match

you can see mine here...........
4754-04-05-caliper-my-bike-2.jpg
 
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If you are gonna insert a zerk, am I right in thinking you will need to remove the inner bearing seals so that the grease can get to the bearings.
 
If you are gonna insert a zerk, am I right in thinking you will need to remove the inner bearing seals so that the grease can get to the bearings.

some do /\
i dont, i repack the new bearings with red waterproof grease, then reseal them, the grease from the zerk in the carrier housing is only to keep water out
 
my theory on that is,,,,,,,,,,
even if you pump it full before every ride, as the grease heats, expands, spins around, some of it's gonna work itself out around the axle, as i see it doing
that allows space for water to get in, if your bearing seal isnt in place, that allows it in there too
even just a little will allow the bearing to rust, especially over the winter downtime
eventually causing a failure ??????
 
I am now confused, call me thick, but the only way I can imagine water getting into the bearings is by the cooling of the grease in the carrier, causing contraction and sucking it in.
 
i just keep mine full of grease after i put the zerk in and my axle falls out when i need to work on it. no rust or grime at all.. just lots and lots of grease lol I:I
 
i just keep mine full of grease after i put the zerk in and my axle falls out when i need to work on it. no rust or grime at all.. just lots and lots of grease lol I:I

exactly /\/\

and blaaster, since you don't do water, you have apperently never experienced what we have here, nor a well neglected, full of rust and grime, ungreased carrier and the problems that causes when trying to disassemble them....the words BIG FUGGIN HAMMER, 5' LONG CHEATER BAR, CANS OF PB BLASTER, AND A TORCH, come to mind

a grease zerk and carrier full of good waterproof grease eliminates those words from the equation, and possibly a very long walk home
 
exactly /\/\

and blaaster, since you don't do water, you have apperently never experienced what we have here, nor a well neglected, full of rust and grime, ungreased carrier and the problems that causes when trying to disassemble them....the words BIG FUGGIN HAMMER, 5' LONG CHEATER BAR, CANS OF PB BLASTER, AND A TORCH, come to mind

a grease zerk and carrier full of good waterproof grease eliminates those words from the equation, and possibly a very long walk home

Even with ox/act torch, BMFH, and homemade puller I couldn't even get the sprocket hub off X(:o. Ended up getting a comeplet axle and carrier for 50$. All came apart easy to do zerk. I highly suggest anti-seize on axle where sleeve goes, where ALL hubs go.

As to leaving seals on brgs, that's debateable, I removed mine. Therory being the bearings will be getting fresh grease each time.
 
ive battled with siexed axles too, one i gave up on and sent it to be pressed out, i didnt mind tho , cause i was swapping a axle job for a motor! tried everything, hammers, blow torch, you name it