ignition help
- Thread starter Red_Arson
- Start date
I would recommend before you swap parts to check the TORS system on the blaster. I recently purchased a blaster and it had no spark, and once I fixed the TORS it worked great. Apparently when the electronic switch in the throttle housing gets old it stops working, and you lose spark. I took the throttle cover off, cut the switch off and spliced the wires together and it worked great.
Agreed! Remove the TORS system from the Blasty before condemning anything electronic. Most Blaster electrical problems that happen suddenly are caused by something wrong in the TORS.
To answer your question, the carb cap is the only electrical part that will interchange between a Blaster and a Banshee. The ignition coil, stator plate, and CDI boxes are totally different.
You can put a Banshee rear axle on the Blaster for more width, and the 'Shee front shocks are slightly better than those on a stock Blaster. Shocks bolt right up; no mods needed. Rear wheels will interchange, too, as long as you install the Banshee hubs with the Banshee rear wheels. Lots of obvious things also swap over...handlebars, throttle lever, clutch lever, brake master cylinders (since you have an '03 +), etc.
Or, you could just take that blown-up Banshee, not part it out, and if ur close to NC, sell it to me!
It could possibly be the CDI, but I don't know. You might want to test all the other components. Here is a free service manual I found that gives instructions for testing everything. http://www.rydindirty.com/blastermanual.pdf. Luckily if it is the cdi, they are only like $40 for the blaster.
^^That's what you need right there!^^ If you have a weak spark problem, it isn't caused by an issue with the TORS. The TORS system will fail and leave you with no spark at all. It is still a good idea to get rid of the TORS, but this is not likely your problem.
It sounds to me like a bad/dirty connection somewhere, or a perhaps a bad coil on the stator plate. Using the info in this service manual, test the ignition coils behind the flywheel with a mulitmeter and compare them to spec. Same test goes for the engine's igition coil and spark plug wire.
Usually, a CDI box either works or it doesn't. Ignition coils go bad, as do the pulse and trigger coils behind the flwheel from time to time. They don't really 'wear out', but moisture, age, and exposure takes their toll. Test them all, compare them to published specs, and you'll probably find the problem in no time...
It sounds to me like a bad/dirty connection somewhere, or a perhaps a bad coil on the stator plate. Using the info in this service manual, test the ignition coils behind the flywheel with a mulitmeter and compare them to spec. Same test goes for the engine's igition coil and spark plug wire.
Usually, a CDI box either works or it doesn't. Ignition coils go bad, as do the pulse and trigger coils behind the flwheel from time to time. They don't really 'wear out', but moisture, age, and exposure takes their toll. Test them all, compare them to published specs, and you'll probably find the problem in no time...
alright ill check it all out, thanks alot, is there any fuses on a blaster? when i bought it the guy had 2 lights mounted to the front, just spliced into the headlight circuit. i was riding it one day and the headlights and tail light all blew out lol, i have a feeling that maybe that fried my stator?
I think it's definitely possible. The blaster stator can only handle 55 watts, so if he had lights in there that were more than that it could have messed it up. I think CDI's usually are either good or bad like Braaaptor said, but I have had a bike before where it had really inconsitent spark. Some days it woul work and other days I could kick it for an hour and get nothing. When I tried swapping out the CDI with a spare I had, it worked like a charm.
The bad thing is, that there is no way to test a CDI box. The manual gives you testing methods for all the other components, and if they all test fine, you assume it is the CDI by the process of elimination. Hopefully it will be something easy. Good luck and let us know what you find out.
The bad thing is, that there is no way to test a CDI box. The manual gives you testing methods for all the other components, and if they all test fine, you assume it is the CDI by the process of elimination. Hopefully it will be something easy. Good luck and let us know what you find out.
I'm curious, too! Get 'er going?
BTW, there are no fuses in a Blaster...the voltage regulator, unfortuantely, acts like a fuse. If you overload the lighting circuit, the regulator will blow. But get this: Even if you fried the whole lighting circuit by overloading it, the engine should still run. There is a separate coil under the flywheel which provides power to the lights. It is not tied into the rest of the bike's electrical system, except for a commonly-shared ground wire.
BTW, there are no fuses in a Blaster...the voltage regulator, unfortuantely, acts like a fuse. If you overload the lighting circuit, the regulator will blow. But get this: Even if you fried the whole lighting circuit by overloading it, the engine should still run. There is a separate coil under the flywheel which provides power to the lights. It is not tied into the rest of the bike's electrical system, except for a commonly-shared ground wire.
Similar threads
