i need a 4 wire stator i have a 5 wire one OR is there a way to use a 5 wire?
if you have one NEAR PITSBURGH hour away at the most
if you have one NEAR PITSBURGH hour away at the most
i need a stator
- Thread starter PGH PA 2 STROKE
- Start date
i guess thats a no ,i dont have enough posts to in the WANTED posts and i cant see PAYING to a SUPPORTING MEMBER, im not lookin to screw people just to ride ive sold parts to many people and never have they came back for there money witch i would give back as i would aspect someone to for me ,theres a couple members on here that i sold to they have not had any probs yet that they have TOLD ME, DO YOU UNDERSTAND WHAT TRYING TO SAY ,IM NOT BASHING IM TRYING TO RIDE
wished i could help ya bro
check with kneppers atv/bike salvage, near 7springs ski resort, rt. 31, 814-445-2499
but id take a tester with me and check the ohms of each coil before buying it, no sense to make a trip there for another bad one,
did you check the ohms of yours from the specs in the manual ????
check with kneppers atv/bike salvage, near 7springs ski resort, rt. 31, 814-445-2499
but id take a tester with me and check the ohms of each coil before buying it, no sense to make a trip there for another bad one,
did you check the ohms of yours from the specs in the manual ????
It doesn't take a contributing member tag to go to the "general support" section and download the factory blaster service manual. HAHA!
link to free downloadable blaster manual is in this link, open it, then "save as" to your desktop.......................
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/my-general-troubleshooting-maintenance-30347/#post358200
the ohm specs are in the troubleshooting section
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/my-general-troubleshooting-maintenance-30347/#post358200
the ohm specs are in the troubleshooting section
wow that helped alot accually, but i still need s 4 wire stator LOL i trade trade for mine and some cash
I have one in the garage I believe. Stock as it comes and last time it was on a blaster it fired beautifully. I'll need to put on a hand on it tomorrow afternoon to confirm and get pictures.
Part of the purchase price though, $10 worth as a matter of fact.... will be put towards your contributing membership.
Part of the purchase price though, $10 worth as a matter of fact.... will be put towards your contributing membership.
Hate to interrupt a beautiful conversation, but there is no reason the 5-wire stator wouldn't work. Just ground the grn/wht wire. (or hook to the black wire)
Now you can afford to become a supporting member!
Now you can afford to become a supporting member!
Well, I may have one out in the garage. Would you like me to put on some flip-flops and go find it?
If you grounded that green wire and it didn't work then that stator is defective or there is something else wrong. You can use the 5 wire stator in a 4 wire circuit.
/\/\/\ thats what i was thinking also, something else wrong ???? try this, i copied it from someone elses post once, helped me find a broken wire inside my harness..............
Electrical problems suck. Your intermittent spark problem is quite likely due to a bad ignition coil. Many times, the high-tension lead (heavy wire that goes from the coil to the spark plug) develops an internal break. Coils can also develop an internal short or open circuit. Either of these faults will result in an intermittent spark at the plug. The coil only fires when the bad connection happens to be made. Which isn't very often, as I'm sure your exhausted right leg can attest.
Do this: Turn the keyed ignition switch (if used) and handlebar switches 'ON'. Unhook the spark plug wire from the plug and remove the spark plug from the engine. Next, find that one-and-only orange wire that attaches to the coil. Unplug it, and go get your 12V test light. (You can buy one for about $ 15.00 at the local auto parts store, or Sears, or....).
Stab the plug on the orange coil wire with the pointed end of your test light. Ground the other end of the test light (with the wire/clamp) out against the engine. Be sure you have a SECURE connection. Now, kick the engine over and watch the test light. The bulb in the test light should blink once for every revolution the engine makes. In other words, the light should flash 'in sync' with the rotations of the crankshaft. This test will tell you whether or not you're getting the required 12 volt 'signal' from the CDI box to the coil every time the piston reaches TDC. If the light blinks steadily, replace your coil. It is defective. The CDI box is sending its 12V pulse to the coil, as it should, but the coil is unable to properly transform it.
Nothing, or an inconsistent blink of the test light, indicates that your ignition coil is not recieving its proper trigger pulse from the other components of the bike's ignition system. Time to pull out the ohm meter and do some resistance checks on the exciter and trigger coils. I'd also test the ignition coil for good measure, just to be sure that it is indeed still good. If these coils test OK (see a Clymer manual for the resistence specs), all connections are clean/tight, and you can't find any bare wires that are accidentally touching the frame, replace your CDI box. It can be ruled faulty if everything else in the ignition system tests good.
Electrical problems suck. Your intermittent spark problem is quite likely due to a bad ignition coil. Many times, the high-tension lead (heavy wire that goes from the coil to the spark plug) develops an internal break. Coils can also develop an internal short or open circuit. Either of these faults will result in an intermittent spark at the plug. The coil only fires when the bad connection happens to be made. Which isn't very often, as I'm sure your exhausted right leg can attest.
Do this: Turn the keyed ignition switch (if used) and handlebar switches 'ON'. Unhook the spark plug wire from the plug and remove the spark plug from the engine. Next, find that one-and-only orange wire that attaches to the coil. Unplug it, and go get your 12V test light. (You can buy one for about $ 15.00 at the local auto parts store, or Sears, or....).
Stab the plug on the orange coil wire with the pointed end of your test light. Ground the other end of the test light (with the wire/clamp) out against the engine. Be sure you have a SECURE connection. Now, kick the engine over and watch the test light. The bulb in the test light should blink once for every revolution the engine makes. In other words, the light should flash 'in sync' with the rotations of the crankshaft. This test will tell you whether or not you're getting the required 12 volt 'signal' from the CDI box to the coil every time the piston reaches TDC. If the light blinks steadily, replace your coil. It is defective. The CDI box is sending its 12V pulse to the coil, as it should, but the coil is unable to properly transform it.
Nothing, or an inconsistent blink of the test light, indicates that your ignition coil is not recieving its proper trigger pulse from the other components of the bike's ignition system. Time to pull out the ohm meter and do some resistance checks on the exciter and trigger coils. I'd also test the ignition coil for good measure, just to be sure that it is indeed still good. If these coils test OK (see a Clymer manual for the resistence specs), all connections are clean/tight, and you can't find any bare wires that are accidentally touching the frame, replace your CDI box. It can be ruled faulty if everything else in the ignition system tests good.
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