Help!!! Won't accelerate

Blasterboy801

New Member
Mar 11, 2013
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Hey I'm new here but I got a problem my bike won't go faster then probably 3 mph while I have the throttle totally pinned I can't figure it out this all happened after I changed the piston rings because I had an oil leak out of exhaust so that fix the oil problem now it revs fine but in gear it won't go fast enough to get out out of first I'm stumped mods are
Oil pump blocked
32:1 premium ratio
air box lid off
Uni air filter
Tors removed
Motion pro throttle kit
dyno jet kit
fmf gold series pipe
Banshee axle
Flipped front tires
 
Was the oil coming out of the exhaust caused by a leaking crankshaft seal on the tranny side.

Have you leak tested the motor since rebuild?
 
The oil was leaking into exhaust through the exhaust port but no I have not leak tested it yet? And the throttle twists all the way and it screams in neutral but it just won't go when in gear....
 
By chance did you "add" the filter and pipe while doing ring job? (which it probably didn't need) Didn't do this before ring job? Was tors disconnected before? What year and explain how you did TORS removeal.
 
Hey I'm new here but I got a problem my bike won't go faster then probably 3 mph while I have the throttle totally pinned I can't figure it out this all happened after I changed the piston rings because I had an oil leak out of exhaust so that fix the oil problem now it revs fine but in gear it won't go fast enough to get out out of first I'm stumped mods are
Oil pump blocked
32:1 premium ratio
air box lid off
Uni air filter
Tors removed
Motion pro throttle kit
dyno jet kit
fmf gold series pipe
Banshee axle
Flipped front tires

What jets did you fit and did you throw the needle away, they usually are only good for dewaxing your ears.



14mqc1y.jpg
 
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piston installed correctly ? (arrow facing forward)
pipe clogged ?
 
i dont have a leak down or compression tester but plan on getting one. I had the pipe filter and TORS before the ring job, my bike is and 1988 blaster and i deleted the tors by following a link on here. yes i cleaned it i spent an hour or 2 cleaning it to make sure it was clean. i put a 220 jet in because thats what the dyno jet kit said i should put in and i still have the old needle.. and what do you mean arrow facing forward???
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-remove-your-tors-655/
 
One thing for sure, unless those "dyno jets" use a different numbering system, you will fry it with a 220 main jet. Pipe+ filter you should be 270-280.

Did you have the piston off the rod when you did rings? "Most" have an arrow on the piston that faces front of bike. If yours didn't have arrow, either pull reeds or ex and look at piston. If you pull reeds, you should see two windows in piston. If you pull ex, with piston at TDC 9top dead center) you should see no windows in piston. Have you leak tested engine? Set float height after cleaning carb? Brass washer under main jet? Slosh baffle on? Check flow from petcock? Open drain on carb and check flow into carb?

Least if you followed the DIY on tors removal that's good.

Is there anything else you did or changed when you did the rings??
Have you tried a new plug?
 
How was the cylinder prepped for the new rings? Did you unhook the clutch cable when you pulled the cylinder? If you are getting RPM's but not pulling, I'd suspect the clutch. If you get RPM's with no load but not when the engine is loaded, I'd suspect blow-by due to rings not seated properly.
 
I'm stumped mods are
Oil pump blocked
32:1 premium ratio = +1
air box lid off = +2
Uni air filter = +1
Tors removed
Motion pro throttle kit
dyno jet kit
fmf gold series pipe = +3

#300 main jet, plus one for good measure #310.

Fit the old needle and plug chop.

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this all happened after I changed the piston rings because I had an oil leak out of exhaust

I am still trying to get my silly old fart of a brain around this logic.:-/:-/:-/

Why did you think the rings were causing the oil to leak from the exhaust?
 
Well I did put piston on backwards and that fixed that and started riding it and 2 minutes in to riding it died and won't start cause the carb keeps flooding?? What did I do???
 
Well I did put piston on backwards and that fixed that and started riding it and 2 minutes in to riding it died and won't start cause the carb keeps flooding?? What did I do???

If the carb is flooding it could be caused by crap in the carb, poor needle and seat, incorrect float setting, or a sticking or sunken float.

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I figured if the rings were bad it would let oil up into the exhaust I don't know...

4 pokes smoke when they have poor rings.

2 strokes smoke a little more too when the rings are worn.

The main cause of a smokey 2 stroke is rich jetting, too much oil in the premix and leaky crankshaft seals allowing gear oil into the crankcase.
 
Well I got the 310 jet like you said it stopped flooding but it was bogging really bad at 1/4 throttle so I just went through and checked everything and my neighbor was helping me cause he knows about 2 strokes not blasters specifically but 2 strokes in general but he Turned the air screw out like 4 turns and I don't even know why so I put it at 1.5 and it solved that problem so it's running now thanks for your help guys!! :)
 
Well I got the 310 jet like you said it stopped flooding but it was bogging really bad at 1/4 throttle so I just went through and checked everything and my neighbor was helping me cause he knows about 2 strokes not blasters specifically but 2 strokes in general but he Turned the air screw out like 4 turns and I don't even know why so I put it at 1.5 and it solved that problem so it's running now thanks for your help guys!! :)

Adjusting the air screw is a band aid measure and be prepared for it to come back and bite you.

You either have dirty fuel system, bad or poorly adjusted float, or too large a pilot. Pilot should be #32.5.

The air screw is for adjusting the idle, which in turn affect carb jetting up to 1/4 throttle.

Idle adjusting.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor to responds.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
 
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