I got my first blaster about a month or so ago and im new to this site. Its 0.040 over, Older Dg Type 2 silencer, Stock fatty, Stock jets, Custom made air box, no lid, k&n. Thinking about re-jetting to a stage 1 or 2 and finding exhaust. Whats your opinions?
Help with exhaust!
- Thread starter slow99blanshee
- Start date
You don't reject as a power upgrade. You jet the motor for what it needs. The correct jetting is vital to the life of your motor. Read up on jetting and plug chops before you start riding. If not., your next threAd may be about your Blaster not running.
Right..? Well, that didn't answer my question about jetting, should I or not? and is there anybody with exhaust on here for sell?
Any time you change airflow to or from the motor you need to rejet. running no lid on the air box needs a bigger jet. The stock header regardless of the silencer calls for no change. Premixing will also require a bigger jet.
This may help you get close. Read these:
http://www.blasterforum.com/jetting-139/jetting-numbers-solution-17259/
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-plug-chop-53237/
http://www.blasterforum.com/jetting-139/jetting-numbers-solution-17259/
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-plug-chop-53237/
The pipe you want will Belen's on your riding style you do, upgrades you have and plane on having and the price that's in your spending range.
I trail ride and hill climb, Open airbox, k&n, 0.040 over, silencer, pre mixed. And probably going to do timing advance.
What the SMURF is a stock fatty??
You either have a fatty or you don't 8-|.
Best place to start is to tell us what is in the carb now, what air screw is at. And do you have a stock pipe or do you have a fatty?
No matter what you have for a pipe, even with your air box set-up you should be other than stock jet.
You either have a fatty or you don't 8-|.
Best place to start is to tell us what is in the carb now, what air screw is at. And do you have a stock pipe or do you have a fatty?
No matter what you have for a pipe, even with your air box set-up you should be other than stock jet.
fatty as in header... -_- If it should be over stock then tell me what you would recommend... y'all beat around the bush to much...
Well if you would ask a direct question then you would get an answer!
Should you Rejet with no mods? No
Does anybody have an exhaust for sale? I do. Pm me.
What kind of pipe should you get? New on riding style and budget.
Should you Rejet with no mods? No
Does anybody have an exhaust for sale? I do. Pm me.
What kind of pipe should you get? New on riding style and budget.
These guys are giving you the straight goods.
You have to learn to jet properly or you will blow up your engine.
There is no "stage II jet upgrade" or whatever, just the proper jet for your needs.
You have to test and figure it out, although some of the guys can help get you close.
First step is leak testing your engine. If you have leaks you will never be able to jet it right.
You have to buy or build (easy) a leak tester and use it. Typical leaks are at the crank seals, case seam, basegasket or reedbox.
Leaks and/or wrng jet = BLOWN UP ENGINE.
Want real power? We know how to find it, cheap.
30-40hp on regular gas is very easy to find with this engine, starting with a modified head.
Ken O'Conner or JoeAK47 (are making these Joe? You should be!) can modify you head for less than $100.
It is not the compression that makes the power, but the shape of the chamber and the squish.
Read up on this.
But first you have to leak test and learn to do a plug chop...
Steve
You have to learn to jet properly or you will blow up your engine.
There is no "stage II jet upgrade" or whatever, just the proper jet for your needs.
You have to test and figure it out, although some of the guys can help get you close.
First step is leak testing your engine. If you have leaks you will never be able to jet it right.
You have to buy or build (easy) a leak tester and use it. Typical leaks are at the crank seals, case seam, basegasket or reedbox.
Leaks and/or wrng jet = BLOWN UP ENGINE.
Want real power? We know how to find it, cheap.
30-40hp on regular gas is very easy to find with this engine, starting with a modified head.
Ken O'Conner or JoeAK47 (are making these Joe? You should be!) can modify you head for less than $100.
It is not the compression that makes the power, but the shape of the chamber and the squish.
Read up on this.
But first you have to leak test and learn to do a plug chop...
Steve
FMF Fatty = #260,
32:1 +1 = #270
No lid +2 = #290
Cold weather + = #300
One for safety = #310
Plug chop to confirm.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
"FATTY" is a TYPE of FMF brand pipe for Blaster, it looks like this :https://www.google.com/search?q=fmf...29,d.b2I&fp=f341b1aded48347b&biw=1024&bih=544
Or does your pipe look like any of these black/ rusty pieces of crap ?
https://www.google.com/search?q=fmf...29,d.b2I&fp=f341b1aded48347b&biw=1024&bih=544
Choose one please
Or does your pipe look like any of these black/ rusty pieces of crap ?
https://www.google.com/search?q=fmf...29,d.b2I&fp=f341b1aded48347b&biw=1024&bih=544
Choose one please
BTW, Welcome to the Dirt pile
Though it may seem we're beating around the bush, we need ALL information on your particular set-up to make an educated deduction as to where to start with repairs, modifications, tuning, etc, you have to help us help you. We are not mind readers or claravoyant
Though it may seem we're beating around the bush, we need ALL information on your particular set-up to make an educated deduction as to where to start with repairs, modifications, tuning, etc, you have to help us help you. We are not mind readers or claravoyant
Nobody is trying to beat around the bush. They are trying to help you keep from frying your motor. There is no different stages in jets in two strokes. Your blaster will either need a larger main jet or a smaller one. Plug chopping will confirm.
Moose Racing Stage 1 2 Jet Kit Yamaha YFS200 Blaster 1988 2006 | eBay
Here is what Im talking about, I found a Dg head pipe like new for 50 bucks.. No dents or rust and only ran for a month or so. Is it a deal, Yay or nay? I WILL have a aftermarket header, silencer, open airbox, k&n, and its bored 0.040 over std.. so I hsould basically go to a 300 and then a plug chop?
Here is what Im talking about, I found a Dg head pipe like new for 50 bucks.. No dents or rust and only ran for a month or so. Is it a deal, Yay or nay? I WILL have a aftermarket header, silencer, open airbox, k&n, and its bored 0.040 over std.. so I hsould basically go to a 300 and then a plug chop?
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Go with a #310 to be on the safe side..
While you have the carb off do a leak test while you have it half apart.
While you have the carb off do a leak test while you have it half apart.
This Google search : D G http://www.blasterforum.com/searchr...008015:9127094460&cof=FORID:9&q=D+G&sa=Search
This is a jetting thread, YOU will have to scroll through it se if you can find what you need. http://www.blasterforum.com/searchr...008015:9127094460&cof=FORID:9&q=D+G&sa=Search
I would not get that jet "kit" it has way more than you need. Plus it looks like it has a hex main jet holder and round jets. Micuni (stock) carbs use a 6mm hex jet, unless thats just some random picture of a jet kit, dunno. 99.9% have never changed either pilot or needle no matter what pipe they used. If you can hold off until you get the pipe, you'll only have to jet it once. 3 maybe 4 jets is all you'll need @ $3.99 is what I just paid @ local dealer.
This is a jetting thread, YOU will have to scroll through it se if you can find what you need. http://www.blasterforum.com/searchr...008015:9127094460&cof=FORID:9&q=D+G&sa=Search
I would not get that jet "kit" it has way more than you need. Plus it looks like it has a hex main jet holder and round jets. Micuni (stock) carbs use a 6mm hex jet, unless thats just some random picture of a jet kit, dunno. 99.9% have never changed either pilot or needle no matter what pipe they used. If you can hold off until you get the pipe, you'll only have to jet it once. 3 maybe 4 jets is all you'll need @ $3.99 is what I just paid @ local dealer.
