Hard starting need help please
- Thread starter twostrokes4life
- Start date
And I should prob change the title of the post to NO START have a sno and ice storm and can't even ride FML
not sure what you're showing in this pic below, nor if it has been addressed in this thread ?
but no black/white stripe wire should be connected or touching any solid black wire (ground), or bare frame.
the only place a blk/wht stripe should even be near any solid black is at either of the 2 kill/key switches, and connecting them by closing the switch to off, grounds out the CDI and prevents starting
do not connect that blk/wht wire to anything but a kill/key switch, or tape it off better so it doesn't touch the frame either
but no black/white stripe wire should be connected or touching any solid black wire (ground), or bare frame.
the only place a blk/wht stripe should even be near any solid black is at either of the 2 kill/key switches, and connecting them by closing the switch to off, grounds out the CDI and prevents starting
do not connect that blk/wht wire to anything but a kill/key switch, or tape it off better so it doesn't touch the frame either
So if the cdi box was being grounded out would it still have spark ? I have a nice blue spark 125-130 psi new reeds rebuilt carb fuel spark and compression I thought those were the big things with two strokes
no, it would not have spark if those wires were your problem.
spark, reeds, fuel, air and no start....check flywheel keyway, spark gotta be at the correct time in cycle.
also....pull the pipe off the cylinder and see if it starts (kill immedietly if it does), or excess fuel shooting out,
a clogged pipe or silencer, or bottom end full of fuel from flooding will also prevent starting
what pilot jet and airscrew setting ?
I think it's 32.5 piolt jet it's deffinantly flooding but would it not be backfiring like crazy if the timing is off ??
possibly backfiring if it's far enuf off, if it's firing when there's no fuel air in the cylinder it's not going to do anything.
check woodruff key
pull pipe and kick till your leg hurts to clear bottom end of flooded fuel (if it is) no fuel air can pass thru bottom end and then up thru transfers to top end if bottom end is full of fuel.
leave pipe off once you're trying to start it to eliminate exhaust blockage as problem.
you trying new plugs ?
Yes I've tried new plugs I'm
Not sure about the woodruff key can I see just by pulling the cover I kno the flywheel will move a little either way untill it comes up on a compression stroke
Ok so I've pulled the pipe a good amount of black gas came pouring out of the pipe is this a good or bad sign ?
it's both a good and bad sign
bad that it's flooding your bottom end, usually an incorrectly set float height overfilling the carb bowl and allowing the fuel to flow in past the reeds and flood the bottom end, it could also be a bad or dirty float valve
and good that we may have found your problem and can now move towards fixing it....
set/check float height: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-heights-and-how-to-adjust-them.50565/
maybe something in this vid ? http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/carburetor-overflow-problem-vid.55600/
claen the float valve: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/easy-and-almost-free-way-to-stop-leaky-carbs.33335/
the raw fuel in your pipe is a good indicator your bottom end is also full of flooded raw fuel and not allowing the new air/fuel mixture to flow thru and up the transfers to the top end for firing.
pull plug out, leave pipe off, shut fuel off at petcock, drain fuel from carb bowl, hold throttle wide open and kick till your leg hurts, then kick with the other leg till it hurts, LOL
kicking should expell the raw fuel out the exhaust port, kick till you don't see anymore, maybe allow to sit open overnight to evaporate some ?
reassemble, install new plug, and try starting it again.
Thanks guys I appreciate the help I'll try these remedies it's a shame it used to run like a top and start first kick every time Duno what it's deal is
What am I supposed to be looking for when I pull the stator cover off the flywheel isn't free spinning it just spins with the engine with no plug in it turns over relatively easy
You need a flywheel puller to get the flywheel off and inspect the woodruff key that locks the flywheel in position.
A flywheel puller is cheap, but necessary. Hint, it is a reverse thread (left handed) where it threads into the flywheel.
nobody can tell you how the float level looks, especially in that position
float level must be checked as explained and shown in the link above, but i'll post it again.....
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-heights-and-how-to-adjust-them.50565/
measure float height like this......
holding the carb on a slight angle, not allowing the floats to depress the spring loaded center needle, just rest against it, measure the float height, from carb body with gasket removed, to top of float like this...........
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