Leaktest before you fire it up! Or that top end may not last long!
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-perform-leak-down-test-44653/
I don't really expect it to pass a leak down test if the rings aren't seated to the cylinders.
Leaktest before you fire it up! Or that top end may not last long!
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-perform-leak-down-test-44653/
I don't really expect it to pass a leak down test if the rings aren't seated to the cylinders.
Your not testing the rings, your checking the gaskets and seals. This is so you are not running a lean mix and fry your top end. here is the step by step,
.
Usually reed cage or base gaskets are the issue. But u can always have a bad crank seal install or case half leak. It takes less that 20 minutes and could save you hundreds. It's a must do on the two strokes. Even a small leak will have you chasing the jetting! One other thing I'd check also is the float level, make sure it is correct before you start jetting. I've made the mistake of not leaktesting beore i ran my motor and cost me a piston, bore!
Blaster looks great! FYI (since nobody else mentioned it), you can run Banshee wheels all around on your Blaster if you want. You have to change out the rear hubs and install Banshee/Warrior/Raptor/YFZ rear hubs in place of the stock Blaster ones, but the Blaster's stock front wheels will switch right out with Banshee wheels. No hub change required. The new rear hubs (no matter which other Yamaha quad they came from) will slide right onto your stock rear axle. I:I
I'd recommend a 320 main jet with that CPI pipe and no airbox lid and tune from there. Toomey recommends a 310 main with their pipe, and the CPI will be close to that.
Sure did, came with the chain as a set (14/40).
Nice , If ya don't mind how much ? , i need to get a set as well
sick shee what bore are you making it?