For All Blaster gurus out there...This problem stumpped me!!..

[Booster1]

Blaster will hardly start/shut off after a few seconds. Here are the details:
*oil injection removed
*Gas mix 40:1 Fresh gas
*Carb cleaned with compressed air, was tolled it was jetted but I can't confirm.
*Timing key behind flywheel checked.. in good shape
*TORS removed
*full fmf exhaust
*intake
*Previous problem was a broken gear directly behind the clutch basket which I replaced with a different clutch basket.

--HERE is the problem at hand, the blaster has a really violent recoil when trying to kick start. The start lever comes back no problem, but it will have a really bad and intermittent kick back, to a point where it shoots my foot back up violently. I got this quad with a broken gear directly related to the kick start, I thought someone tried starting it while running it and trashed it. Now I'm starting to think that there is a larger problem at hand. Anyone have an idea what could be causing this issue, the violent recoil that is?

PS, the longest I had this quad run was for about 10sec at half-choke, but it died off eventually..

Any help would be appreciated..
ND

 

[doc_speeder]

Have you done the basic diagnostics, ie: compression/leak-down test? It's all just wild guesses without some basic work on your part first.

 

[02yamaturd]

has the timing been retarded or advanced any????kinda a dumb question but i gotta ask....

 

[xJust_Causex]

first I would mix that fuel a little richer I would think 40 is a little lean on oil. Secondly this really sounds like a timing issue to me, so I would pull the flywheel and check the stator position and maybe try another one if you can get one somewhere.

 

[OConnor Racing]

Elementary!!!! It can only be a couple of things.
1.Take the clutch cover off.
2.Take the clutch pressure plate off and pull out the clutch plates.
3.Try to turn the inner clutch basket.
4.If the basket doesn't turn, or is hard to turn, loosen the nut that hold it on and see if it turns now. If it does, the washer behind the large clutch basket is too thick. Should be about .105” thick.
Second scenario is the kicker mechanism.
1.Check the recoil spring and make sure it's not broken.
2. Turn the spring in a clockwise direction and make sure it pushes the gear on the kicker shaft into the case. If it doesn't, something is wrong in the kicker mechanism. Check for smooth operation, missing clips and broken springs.
Don't keep starting the engine until you fix it or you'll break another basket.

 

[Awk08]

/\/\/\/\ well said, sounds like you've had some "very recent" experience at this, hahahaa

 

[OConnor Racing]

Sure did. Thought I'd save him some sleep.

 

[Booster1]

Elementary!!!! It can only be a couple of things.
1.Take the clutch cover off.
2.Take the clutch pressure plate off and pull out the clutch plates.
3.Try to turn the inner clutch basket.
4.If the basket doesn't turn, or is hard to turn, loosen the nut that hold it on and see if it turns now. If it does, the washer behind the large clutch basket is too thick. Should be about .105” thick.
Second scenario is the kicker mechanism.
1.Check the recoil spring and make sure it's not broken.
2. Turn the spring in a clockwise direction and make sure it pushes the gear on the kicker shaft into the case. If it doesn't, something is wrong in the kicker mechanism. Check for smooth operation, missing clips and broken springs.
Don't keep starting the engine until you fix it or you'll break another basket.

I will def take a look at the washer thickness, but I checked the spring when I changed the clutch basket (the small gear was broken directly behind it, most likely due to the same problem!!). How can a washer be too thick? I would guess it would be SMALLER if anything due to wear and tear, but anyways i will take it apart again.

I only found one person who had almost an identical problem that I have here. Where he would had a hard recoil half way through the kick start about 60 % of the time. From what I gather, it was short in his wiring. It just so happens that my tors is disconnected (removed from throttle) and the head light is gone.

I will once again troubleshoot (cheack girth of washer, check magneto position, and wiring) with all of the great advice given, but please chime in if you have any more ideas!!

NICK

 

[yb200]

yeah i think something going on with the kicker gear/spring also

 

[slickerthanyou]

Elementary!!!! It can only be a couple of things.
1.Take the clutch cover off.
2.Take the clutch pressure plate off and pull out the clutch plates.
3.Try to turn the inner clutch basket.
4.If the basket doesn't turn, or is hard to turn, loosen the nut that hold it on and see if it turns now. If it does, the washer behind the large clutch basket is too thick. Should be about .105” thick.
Second scenario is the kicker mechanism.
1.Check the recoil spring and make sure it's not broken.
2. Turn the spring in a clockwise direction and make sure it pushes the gear on the kicker shaft into the case. If it doesn't, something is wrong in the kicker mechanism. Check for smooth operation, missing clips and broken springs.
Don't keep starting the engine until you fix it or you'll break another basket.

Dejevu! Can't be another washer issue-WTF! Who the hell keeps selling these thick washers! That washer isn't wearing down trust me! If that's your issue someone played substitute!

Don't keep starting the engine until you fix it or you'll break another basket

This is so true!! :-[

 

[125pb]

i would check the timing, mainly the stater, some people drill them out to mess with stock timing. or it could have an ajustable after market one. when i first put my motor in the frame and tried to start it.... it fired backwards and broke the same gear your talking about, my problem was the woodruff key, whitch has a part in the bikes ignition timing.

 

[BIG_AL]

try 32:1 gas before anything else. its what made my uncles banshee run better

 

[matt75]

Might as well check the reeds too. I thought i sheared my key "again" and could barely get it started found out i had a broken reed petal..

 

[Booster1]

Thanks for all the help.. It was not the spring, gas mix, reeds, washer, spring, nor the magneto. It the wiring that was causing the violent kick back. I guess since the wiring harness was not fully hooked up, since the head light was removed and the TORS, I grabbed the spare throttle with the TORS, and hooked up a Kill switch (which it didn;t have in the first place) and it fired up just fine!! Except when I just released the TORS it would die right away. I disconnected the TORS and the thing rips like nothing else. I guess from that it turns out that the wiring was causing faulty missfire/short that was sparking half way the kick and shooting my foot back up..

ND

 

[Whitty21]

Them TORS are nothin but problems