Finally got the carb right

Whitty21

Member
Apr 15, 2010
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Small town, ON, Canada
You guys may have seen that i have had a lot of posts tryin to figure out my carb. I think i was having trouble because the dynojet kit has two options, One with your airbox on, the other with it off. Now i had my snorkel off, but lid on, so i was in the middle. After thinking, having the snorkel off is no different than having the lid off. So i have the lid off and The needle on the third clip, stock pilot, and 350 main, how does that sound to you guys?I:I
 
LOL. Lid Off is a BIG difference in performance and jetting requirements.

350 sounds a bit fat considering the Toomey Pipe Kit gives a 310 to go along with the pipe and a UNI filter with no lid. That said, ONLY YOU can test it to be sure. Run it wide open and see. If it is too rich it will sputter at high RPM. A plug chop (as mentioned before) will zero in even closer. I would think a slightly larger pilot would be a good idea, say one or two sizes bigger, to protect you from lean out on the lower end. I am able to run a pilot that is large enough that it will foul plugs instantly if I leave on the lid (I put it on for washing).
 
jet kits are a joke......put your stock needle back in in the middle clip and by the mods in your sig i would thing all you would need for a main is 240-250 since your bike is pretty much stock
 
The airbox off is actually ridiculous, gotta get a K&N precharger for some added protection. But the engine is stock, except for the filter. Dynojet says 350 for open airbox and no exhaust, and360 with exhaust. But it is runnin better than ever with no sputtering, so i think i am good. I ran a 340 with the lid on and it spuddered from mid all the way to high. took the lid off and it was good. Then i tried the 350 with the lid off and it ran the same, so i stayed with it
 
right from dynojet website:
stage one

1. Unscrew the carb top. Disconnect throttle cable and remove
the slide. Remove needle retainer and stock needle(Fig.A).
2. Install Dynojet needle on groove #3 for applications below 5000
feet, groove #2 for above 5000 feet. The Dynojet washer is for
half step adjustments and does not need to be installed at this
time.
3. Remove stock main jet and replace with Dynojet main provided.
When using the stock exhaust use the DXP210. When using an
aftermarket exhaust use the DXP220. Be sure that the jet you are
changing is the main jet.
4. Locate the Air Screw (Fig.C). Using a flat blade screwdriver,
turn the screw clockwise until it seats, then turn out 2 turns.

stage two

1. Remove the air box lid.
2. Unscrew the carb top. Disconnect throttle cable and remove
the slide. Remove needle retainer and stock needle (Fig.A).
3. Install Dynojet needle on groove #3 for applications below
5000 feet, groove #2 for above 5000 feet. The Dynojet washer is
for half step adjustments and does not need to be installed at this
time.
4. Remove stock main jet and replace with Dynojet main
provided. When using the stock exhaust use the DXP350. When
using an aftermarket exhaust use the DXP360. Be sure that the
jet you are changing is the main jet.
5. Locate the Air Screw (Fig.C). Using a flat blade screwdriver,
turn the screw clockwise until it seats, then turn out 2 turns.
 
obviously those jet numbers aren't the same as the regular mikuni jets....or that thing would be so rich it wouldn't run
 
haha i know, it scared me how it jumped from 220 to 340, but i dont know what the DXP means before it, but it is runnin good, took the front fenders of too, looks, runs and sounds better now :P
 
haha i know, it scared me how it jumped from 220 to 340, but i dont know what the DXP means before it, but it is runnin good, took the front fenders of too, looks, runs and sounds better now :P
You were running 220 stock? I thought the stock was 230