I recently bought a 99 blaster with a bad bottom end. i replaced the bottom end with a used one. after rebuilding the top end and carb i get it running. now it idles fine, but when i shift out of neutral into 1st it pops forward and dies. when i swapped the clutch over the plates didnt look bad (you could still see the raised parts clearly on the friction plates. i adjusted the clutch so the clutch arm lined up with the mark on the case. any ideas on what i should look at next?
engine dies when i shift into 1st
- Thread starter BallzDeep38
- Start date
More info please. Can you get it to rev up out of gear?
Have you done all the required post assembly checks, mainly a leak down test?
compression check?
Clutch adjustment?
More info please!
Have you done all the required post assembly checks, mainly a leak down test?
compression check?
Clutch adjustment?
More info please!
Ok here is a little more info. the bike idles and revs up just fine in neutral. if i try to start it in gear (with the clutch pulled in) it pushes the bike forward. so i also think my problem is with the clutch.
I remember putting the little ball in. I did however have apart for a few days and now am second guessing that the ball could have possibly fallen out before it was finally reassembled.
I adjusted the clutch cable, and adjusted the the clutch screw while the cover was off. The tip of the clutch arm now points directly across the the engine at rest (it lines up with the little mark on top of the case.
no compression check or leak down check. would this affect the operation of the clutch?
Finally, if i have to dig into this clutch again (and it sounds like i will have too), can i remove the clutch cover with the engine still in the frame? it looks like it might be blocked by a guard rail for the rear brake.
thanks again guys.
I remember putting the little ball in. I did however have apart for a few days and now am second guessing that the ball could have possibly fallen out before it was finally reassembled.
I adjusted the clutch cable, and adjusted the the clutch screw while the cover was off. The tip of the clutch arm now points directly across the the engine at rest (it lines up with the little mark on top of the case.
no compression check or leak down check. would this affect the operation of the clutch?
Finally, if i have to dig into this clutch again (and it sounds like i will have too), can i remove the clutch cover with the engine still in the frame? it looks like it might be blocked by a guard rail for the rear brake.
thanks again guys.
You just have to take the foot peg to remove the cover. See if the ball is in there and check back with us.
ok thanks. any tips for getting the ball out of there, other than taking out hte pressure plate and rod and tipping the bike over?
Small magnet will work. or if you have a air compressor then blow in the clutch actuator arm hole. Be careful it doesnt go flying though.
ok guys it took me ALOT longer to get back to this project then I expected. here is where I am at now.
I disassembled the engine and found 2 Ball bearings in it. What was happening was with the second ball bearing in the clutch was hitting the cover and not allowing the clutch to disengage when I pulled the lever in. So I removed the extra ball bearing and reassembled the engine. Now I have the same problem I had in the first place only the clutch is no longer hitting the cover.
So to recap. There is only one ball bearing in the clutch assembly now. The clutch arm is adjusted properly (lined up with the mark on the case. All the slack is taken out of the cable (adjusted at the clutch lever). When I pull in the lever, the clutch no longer hits the cover. When the engine is off everything seems to be operating fine. When I start it, It idles and revs strong. the problem is the clutch is not disengaging when I pull the lever in, so when I shift into first it stalls. Could the problem be a stretched clutch cable? The clutch plates looked fine (at this point im thinking worn clutch plates would be helpful). Can anyone give me some insight? Im getting ready to set fire to this thing!
I disassembled the engine and found 2 Ball bearings in it. What was happening was with the second ball bearing in the clutch was hitting the cover and not allowing the clutch to disengage when I pulled the lever in. So I removed the extra ball bearing and reassembled the engine. Now I have the same problem I had in the first place only the clutch is no longer hitting the cover.
So to recap. There is only one ball bearing in the clutch assembly now. The clutch arm is adjusted properly (lined up with the mark on the case. All the slack is taken out of the cable (adjusted at the clutch lever). When I pull in the lever, the clutch no longer hits the cover. When the engine is off everything seems to be operating fine. When I start it, It idles and revs strong. the problem is the clutch is not disengaging when I pull the lever in, so when I shift into first it stalls. Could the problem be a stretched clutch cable? The clutch plates looked fine (at this point im thinking worn clutch plates would be helpful). Can anyone give me some insight? Im getting ready to set fire to this thing!
This is where two balls is not a good thing 
When you had clutch apart were there any grooves on the fingers of the basket? Search Utube vor a vid by Ken Oconner, he shows how to file the fingers flat/smooth. Double check that you don't have to many plates Unless the friction plates are boogered up at the fingers, worn plates keep it from ENGAGEING not releasing/disengaging.
When you had clutch apart were there any grooves on the fingers of the basket? Search Utube vor a vid by Ken Oconner, he shows how to file the fingers flat/smooth. Double check that you don't have to many plates
Unless the friction plates are boogered up at the fingers, worn plates keep it from ENGAGEING not releasing/disengaging.
adjust the bokt in the inside of the clutch. when i had tto replace my clutch, i got everything working, but when i pulled the l;ever, nothing happened withthe clutch so try and tighten the nut, just dont tighten too much or all the way
It's actually more likely that the pushrod is deformed on the actuator end. I took one apart last week that had had some "case saver" area damage and apparently had been allowed to run without transmission fluid. The ball had welded itself between the pushrods and the nimrod kept riding it which meant that the rod was slowly burrowing into the paddle arm. Thankfully the nimrod sold it to my friend (for cheap) who called me up and asked my opinion on the matter.
Two balls, and the clutch pressure plate hitting the case may have led to some actuator arm damage, unfortunately. If the arm is lines up with the arrow on the case, how many threads are sticking out of the nut on the end of the clutch pressure plate?
Two balls, and the clutch pressure plate hitting the case may have led to some actuator arm damage, unfortunately. If the arm is lines up with the arrow on the case, how many threads are sticking out of the nut on the end of the clutch pressure plate?
yep that push rod will get mushroomed on the actuator side and wont fit through the shaft so effectively lost action of the clutch lever. or it could be grooves in the basket.
Similar threads
