engine built

[general_lee]

hu guys im new to the forum , you might seen me on bansheehq under the name of general_lee_banshee , i bought a blaster in september with a blown crank and no cylinder , head , and exaust , its a sweet little bike and bought it for the tires but hate to see it not running . so i had the taught of building it for my wife , i was thinking of building a stroker since the parts are half price compared to my banshee
can somone tell me how its done, i seen on ebay there a spacer plate for the cylinder for the +3 crank. so im guessing your using the same pistons? or you guys cut the head instead? now for compression , is there any aftermarket heads for a blaster with interchangable domes? and for timming whats safe on it +4? now exaust wise i was thinking of toomeys since thats what i have on my banshee how do they peform? I:I thanks guys

 

[ruairiyblaster]

I know most people use +4 timing, never ran a toomey myself but never heard a bad word about them people love the toomey. As for heads you just send your standard head to a shop and get it machined

 

[DUALSTROKE]

hu guys im new to the forum , you might seen me on bansheehq under the name of general_lee_banshee , i bought a blaster in september with a blown crank and no cylinder , head , and exaust , its a sweet little bike and bought it for the tires but hate to see it not running . so i had the taught of building it for my wife , i was thinking of building a stroker since the parts are half price compared to my banshee
can somone tell me how its done, i seen on ebay there a spacer plate for the cylinder for the +3 crank. so im guessing your using the same pistons? or you guys cut the head instead? now for compression , is there any aftermarket heads for a blaster with interchangable domes? and for timming whats safe on it +4? now exaust wise i was thinking of toomeys since thats what i have on my banshee how do they peform? I:I thanks guys

Welcome to the forum!!
When you go to a +3 stroker crank you need to run the spacer plate in order to keep the piston from coming up and hitting the head.They play it safe when it comes to the squish are when running the spacer plate.You will also most likely have to do some hand grinding when you install a +3 crank.If you go this route I can show you where or you will know if you "dry" assemble it.A stroker crank is not going to benefit you very much without porting and a rechambered/cut head. You would use the same piston that is designd for the cylinder you are running.Stock cylinders there are a wide variety of manufactureres and wiseco being the best and most highly reccomended.Pistons really only get a bit tricky when running different big bore kits. There are no interchangeable domes or "cool head" style heads available for these little air cooled blastys.The stock heads can get rechambered and cut to your setup.As for exhaust toomey is a good pipe for a stock cylinder blaster.All depends on your setup.There are alot of pipes out there and depending on your overall goal depends on which one will work best.Timing depends on your setup also.Most guys with porting and some with minor mods run +4 and have good luck with it.I personally run +4 on a stock cylinder ported 3mil stroker setup that works really well. In my opinion to save yourself some money and to see if the wife likes the blaster I would just get a stock crank used or new,a stock cylinder and head and get it going.If you are looking for a little more power and want to spend the money then a port job,rechambered head and pipe will really wake it up nice.Parts are plenty for the blasters so they are still affordable for the most part.

 

[ruairiyblaster]

^^^ can't disagree with any of that
If I was you I'd run a stock crank, wiseco piston normal bore, rechambered head, port and polish, +4 timing I ran that exact setup before I purchased my exhaust and it ripped. A toomey would work real well with them mods.also look into gearing to suit your riding style
You should ring ken he will give you advise and not just take your money and do u what u say even if it won't work.

 

[general_lee]

Welcome to the forum!!
When you go to a +3 stroker crank you need to run the spacer plate in order to keep the piston from coming up and hitting the head.They play it safe when it comes to the squish are when running the spacer plate.You will also most likely have to do some hand grinding when you install a +3 crank.If you go this route I can show you where or you will know if you "dry" assemble it.A stroker crank is not going to benefit you very much without porting and a rechambered/cut head. You would use the same piston that is designd for the cylinder you are running.Stock cylinders there are a wide variety of manufactureres and wiseco being the best and most highly reccomended.Pistons really only get a bit tricky when running different big bore kits. There are no interchangeable domes or "cool head" style heads available for these little air cooled blastys.The stock heads can get rechambered and cut to your setup.As for exhaust toomey is a good pipe for a stock cylinder blaster.All depends on your setup.There are alot of pipes out there and depending on your overall goal depends on which one will work best.Timing depends on your setup also.Most guys with porting and some with minor mods run +4 and have good luck with it.I personally run +4 on a stock cylinder ported 3mil stroker setup that works really well. In my opinion to save yourself some money and to see if the wife likes the blaster I would just get a stock crank used or new,a stock cylinder and head and get it going.If you are looking for a little more power and want to spend the money then a port job,rechambered head and pipe will really wake it up nice.Parts are plenty for the blasters so they are still affordable for the most part.

thanks for the great detailed info , since its already apart im gonna stroke it, i need my wife to keep up with the banshee where do i need to grind?

 

[2smoker85]

I had the +3 and was ported and man was it fun to ride!! great trail quads.

 

[DUALSTROKE]

Glad to help. If you are going to go the stroker route just make sure you have the jug ported for the 3mm stroker.A 3mm stroker running stock port layout with the spacer plate is not ideal.In fact a stock stroke crank with stock jug will probably be better or atleast not much difference.Also there are 4mm cranks available also which require case trenching(machined) in order to fit and not just some hand grinding.Some of the 3mm cranks don't require any but more often than not the rod neeeds the clearance.It's just safe to do it rather than get it together and find out.I don't have any good cases that are split right now,but here are a few pics of where to grind.You will see I highlight it in green sharpie in the pics.You do not have to grind off all green that is shown,just trying to represent the best picture with the cases together.Sorry best I have for pics right now.

 

[DUALSTROKE]

Edit just found these:
These pics will show you the cases apart and the area not seen in the above pics.These cases are junk.Someone used a die grinder and trenched them for a 4mm crank.Not the proper way and as seen in the pics it will crack the wall very easily.But these are the only set I have apart and to be honest they should be sent to the scrap yard.But you will get the idea.Keep us posted.

 

[general_lee]

Edit just found these:
These pics will show you the cases apart and the area not seen in the above pics.These cases are junk.Someone used a die grinder and trenched them for a 4mm crank.Not the proper way and as seen in the pics it will crack the wall very easily.But these are the only set I have apart and to be honest they should be sent to the scrap yard.But you will get the idea.Keep us posted.

i dont wanna trench the case for a 4 mill . 3 mill looks easier , so i got to modify the cylinder as well? also anynone has these parts for sale?

 

[Larry's Shee]

couldn't say for sure if that hand grinding caused the breakage or not. Point is that it needs to be done properlt so that the minimum is removed so to not increase crankcase volume any more than necessary.

 

[DUALSTROKE]

Those hack job cases are a bad representation.It was all I had apart to try and show you.I was also just hinting on the +4 cause I knew you were going to see them when looking for a +3 and wanted to calrify it now rather than later.With that said I went down after work and took apart one of my parts motors just to take these pics for you so you can see where to grind for a +3.Again I have it highlited in green sharpie.You are looking to just remove that "hump in the center of the green and smooth it out accordingly.It just needs to clear the width of the rod.This is to be done to both cases as they are split directly center of the rod.

 

[DUALSTROKE]

i dont wanna trench the case for a 4 mill . 3 mill looks easier , so i got to modify the cylinder as well? also anynone has these parts for sale?

You can run the spacer plate with the +3 but the ports are going to be off.It will work but will not give you that "keep up with the shee" power.A good port job is hands down the best place to go for power.Of course every one thing you mod works in conjunction with another.If you want power then I would have that cylinder ported for a +3,ported,head rechambered,exhaust,larger carb.That will wake it up and help her stay somewhat near the shee.We are talking taking these little 16-18hp stock blasters to 30-40hp with the right combo and port job.If you are going to go +3 with spacer plate and no porting then I would just go stock stroke with no porting and run it.I have these stock parts available,send me a p.m. if interested.

 

[DUALSTROKE]

couldn't say for sure if that hand grinding caused the breakage or not. Point is that it needs to be done properlt so that the minimum is removed so to not increase crankcase volume any more than necessary.

You are correct.The hand grinding didn't casue the breakage but if they were machine trenched and not a die grinder they most likely would have survived.There are a few more spots not seen in the pics that are broken through also.Along with many other points of failure.Not going to mention names directly cause we do not need any of that here.But I will say he offers a free $100 off a port job every time someone calls him out

 

[general_lee]

You can run the spacer plate with the +3 but the ports are going to be off.It will work but will not give you that "keep up with the shee" power.A good port job is hands down the best place to go for power.Of course every one thing you mod works in conjunction with another.If you want power then I would have that cylinder ported for a +3,ported,head rechambered,exhaust,larger carb.That will wake it up and help her stay somewhat near the shee.We are talking taking these little 16-18hp stock blasters to 30-40hp with the right combo and port job.If you are going to go +3 with spacer plate and no porting then I would just go stock stroke with no porting and run it.I have these stock parts available,send me a p.m. if interested.

where is the best place to get the cylinder ported for the 3 mill set up ? any site sponsors that offers good deal and great work?what size carb would work best ? tm35? so lets say i do this ---> 3mill crank , v force reeds , (whatever carb tha works best for this set up) , milled head , +4 timming , and a toomey exaust (or is there anything better?). around how many hp could it produce? ill send you a pm shortly

 

[2smoker85]

I would say talk to ken oconnor racing, flotek, those are the best that I know of and have never heard a bad thing about them I have more that used before and didn't turn out too well, keihin pwk35,vf4 reeds and as exhaust cpi,vitos, fat bastard,toomey shearer, all good pipes if u send it to the builder of ur choice, send him the whole motor, that way he can set it up port match everything and cut ur head correctly etc, u could easily make 25hp and throw a 240 on it easy 30-33hp perspectively. its amazing the difference between stock and ported motors. u have a banshee so im sure u already know.

 

[79 bronco]

Nice pics DUALSTROKE!!! I wonder how long it took someone to hand grinding trench that case? lol

I will never trench a case again!!! I trenched my case, and didnt like it..

Before

 

[Wheels]

Why didn't you like it? I think it looks good

 

[89blaster89]

i thought the 3mill crank is a direct bolt in and no modding cases is needed?

 

[79 bronco]

i thought the 3mill crank is a direct bolt in and no modding cases is needed?

The case trenching if for the +4.

I thought the +3 would fit with no case modding.

 

[79 bronco]

Why didn't you like it? I think it looks good

Look at how thin it gets in the spot between the balancer and crank and the spot between the hole for the alignment dowel pin and crank..