^^^that is how it always gets started^^^
I have never started an argument with you, or anyone on here....
you always make the first dumb ass comment, so f*ck off
endurance racing with the big boys?
- Thread starter 96blaster_200
- Start date
^^^that is how it always gets started^^^
I have never started an argument with you, or anyone on here....
you always make the first dumb ass comment, so f*ck off
dude wtf chill out my man he was talkin about tjscott lol geez somone is a BOMBI:I lol man jk
you have to factor many things into the equation:
what exactly is the course like?
how setup and dialed in is the bike?
how good is the rider(s)
now whats in the blasters favor: if it's a rough course and th baster has GOOD suspension, the lighter blaster will be less fatiging to the rider.
The blaster is much less complicated and easier to do fast repairs on. (endurance races are about not breaking), I have seen a LOT of people enter baja, 24 hour races etc with bikes that have every possible go fast part, big motors etc.. and the riders ride the hell out of them. they are easy to pass when they break. you also have the power to weight equation, by the time you replace the pipe, steel wheels, and a-arms and swinger with cromoly you have shaved a LOT of weight off the bike, so you may be running with 30hp and a 4stroke with 50, but his setup probably weighs close to 100 pounds more. (people also fail to realize that the easiest place to trim weight is off your fat azz.... why people spend 3 grand on trick parts to shave 10 pounds off their bike, yet they live on cheeseburgers and pizza being 30 pounds pver weight)
what do you need to do to the bike??
a-arms, shocks, a good swingarm (not a 200 dollar +3 ebay special), steering stabalizer, a FRESH engine (not a top end.. rebuild the tranny, crank main bearings and seals, new clutch and basket) a nice mild 30~35 hp 240 setup for midrange. take the bike down to a bare frame, go over everything, replace bearings, replac throttle and clutch cables (ziptie old cables on the new ones..if one fails, the spare is routed and takes 2 seconds to change) repace the case and clutch cover bolts with allen heads and get a set of allen head T wrenches.
next prepare you. run, run some more..keep running.. if you have a friend with a half pipe run the half pipe up and down back and forth.
prepare your mind. endurance races take a different mindset. it's not about ging ballisitcally fast, it's about riding a quick CONSISTANT sustaianable pace..say you can ride balls out and due a 10 mile loop in 11 minutes, then you need to ride a pace of about 13 minute laps, every lap, lap in and lap out..dont' look fro the fastest line look for the smoothest. the race isn't going to be won in the first hours, it will be won in the hour or so. they only thing your going to do in the first couple hours is LOSE the race. you should be riding about 80% if your going to be racing at nite, get GOOD lights. the quality of the light is MUCH more important than the wattage. a good hella, cibie or baja designs with a 35 watt bulb will work MUCH better than a walmart ligh with a 100 watt bulb.
In case something does break, get a couple buddies blasters, take them apart (sub assemblies) think like a complete front end for each sidewith spindle and hub attached, so its a quick change.
remember, it's an endurance race, the really fast guys will beat themselves, and you will undoubtedly win the race in the garage with proper prep like red locktighting pretty much everything. Then win it on the track by riding consistantly and conservativly, not wearing out and breaking you or the bike.
what exactly is the course like?
how setup and dialed in is the bike?
how good is the rider(s)
now whats in the blasters favor: if it's a rough course and th baster has GOOD suspension, the lighter blaster will be less fatiging to the rider.
The blaster is much less complicated and easier to do fast repairs on. (endurance races are about not breaking), I have seen a LOT of people enter baja, 24 hour races etc with bikes that have every possible go fast part, big motors etc.. and the riders ride the hell out of them. they are easy to pass when they break. you also have the power to weight equation, by the time you replace the pipe, steel wheels, and a-arms and swinger with cromoly you have shaved a LOT of weight off the bike, so you may be running with 30hp and a 4stroke with 50, but his setup probably weighs close to 100 pounds more. (people also fail to realize that the easiest place to trim weight is off your fat azz.... why people spend 3 grand on trick parts to shave 10 pounds off their bike, yet they live on cheeseburgers and pizza being 30 pounds pver weight)
what do you need to do to the bike??
a-arms, shocks, a good swingarm (not a 200 dollar +3 ebay special), steering stabalizer, a FRESH engine (not a top end.. rebuild the tranny, crank main bearings and seals, new clutch and basket) a nice mild 30~35 hp 240 setup for midrange. take the bike down to a bare frame, go over everything, replace bearings, replac throttle and clutch cables (ziptie old cables on the new ones..if one fails, the spare is routed and takes 2 seconds to change) repace the case and clutch cover bolts with allen heads and get a set of allen head T wrenches.
next prepare you. run, run some more..keep running.. if you have a friend with a half pipe run the half pipe up and down back and forth.
prepare your mind. endurance races take a different mindset. it's not about ging ballisitcally fast, it's about riding a quick CONSISTANT sustaianable pace..say you can ride balls out and due a 10 mile loop in 11 minutes, then you need to ride a pace of about 13 minute laps, every lap, lap in and lap out..dont' look fro the fastest line look for the smoothest. the race isn't going to be won in the first hours, it will be won in the hour or so. they only thing your going to do in the first couple hours is LOSE the race. you should be riding about 80% if your going to be racing at nite, get GOOD lights. the quality of the light is MUCH more important than the wattage. a good hella, cibie or baja designs with a 35 watt bulb will work MUCH better than a walmart ligh with a 100 watt bulb.
In case something does break, get a couple buddies blasters, take them apart (sub assemblies) think like a complete front end for each sidewith spindle and hub attached, so its a quick change.
remember, it's an endurance race, the really fast guys will beat themselves, and you will undoubtedly win the race in the garage with proper prep like red locktighting pretty much everything. Then win it on the track by riding consistantly and conservativly, not wearing out and breaking you or the bike.
thanks for the help phragle copied and saved.
and to all the guys talking sh*t,drink a cold glass of water and chill offI:I
and to all the guys talking sh*t,drink a cold glass of water and chill offI:I
old thread, but tj had me post this,
lolz, tj is a douchebag, do you ever read your own posts?
Isnt this a forum to help people out, not cut each other down??? I mean come on. Its the internet. Dont take people so seriously.
