E-brake circuitry problems!!!

[J2PUISANT]

OK. A LITTLE HISTORY ON THIS PROJECT. I JUST REBUILT THE ENGINE. DID A-Z. INSTALL TORS, PISTON, CRANK, ETC... BEFORE I HAD A NO START BUT I FOUND OUT THROUGH THIS WONDERFUL SITE THE REMEDY WHICH WAS THE TROTTLE OVERRIDE CIRCUIT. OK. NOW I GO TAKE IT OUT FOR A TEST RUN. IT IDLES. I STARTS UP ON 1-2 KICKS MAX. GREAT. BUT AT WOT OR ANYTHING CLOSE TO THAT I GET A BOGGING OUT. I WAS TOLD SOMEWHERE THAT THE E-BRAKE MECHANISM CAN HAVE SOMETHING T DO WITH IT. HELP. HELP! HELP!!! LOL

 

[Awk08]

what year bike ?????
piston in right direction ????
plug fouled ????
reeds good ????
did you leakdown test the new rebuild ????
did it run ever after you deleted the tors ?????
did you thoroughly clean the carb while it was off ????
is the ground at the coil good and clean ???

refer to my troubleshootin guide at the bottom of my sig pic

 

[royalt67]

As above for shure^^^. The ebrake switch will kill ignition anywhere above idle, not just WOT, and only 03+ quads have it. If this sounds like you then just unplug the switch from the harness.

 

[J2PUISANT]

Thats it. Isnt it going to read as an open circuit? Do i have to tie them together. And if i unplug them does that mean i can just cut them and isolate them with tape? Cause that would be ez...

 

[royalt67]

As far as the ebrake goes, yeah, that's it. An open circuit is what you want. When the ebrake on the clutch perch is set, it closes a NO switch causing the cdi to limit RPMs. Unplug it, no problem. You can cut and tape if you want. Personally, I like to leave things so that they are reversible. I might want to sell it someday and some people prefer to buy stock.