OK so this is my first time working on a blaster, and I have plenty of 2 stroke experience but this one has me stumped. When you try to go it wont, simple as that. The engine will get the revvs up if you keep playing with the throttle but you just cant pull it back and go. If you are revving by playing with the throttle there sounds like there is power but soon as the clutch loads the engine in the slightest it dies again. So I figured the carb was toast and as is the norm with fuel here in WA I rebuild a lot of power sport carbs. Inside the carb was dirty but not crusty nasty like I am used to.
So factory carb freshly rebuilt with a bath in carb cleaner and an ultrasonic cleaner. Everything came out clean and beautiful. Fresh jets, fresh gaskets and all is well. Needle is on the middle notch. After the rebuild the blaster will idle beautifully, has a bit more power but still bogs and dies easily. At least now I can get it to move in first but still have to play with the throttle to achieve anything.
I also noticed that this has no air box any more, just an open element filter. I figured this could be an issue so I blocked most of it off with tape. This helped too but still not enough and there is less than 1 square inch of this filter not taped up. I sprayed carb cleaner around the base, and all other gasket surfaces, nothing changed, I believe there is no leaks. Compression test came to 110 with about 5 kicks and the fist kick brought the gauge to about 80. I know that 110 is low side of good. Plug was a bit black but it cleaned up nice. Also while the carb was off I took the reed cage off as well. Reeds were flat and clean, with no cracks and all seemed to move nice. They looked to be the factory fiberglass ones.
In the past I have noticed low power and slight bogging with a bad top end but this is way more extreme than that. Usually a bad top end will still let you ride just with no power and not much for top speed. HOw finicky are the ignition units in these things? I found a module that I believe is the ignition that was floating under the front bodywork that would arc to the chassis. I bolted this down, no difference in the performance.
Any help is appreciated.
So factory carb freshly rebuilt with a bath in carb cleaner and an ultrasonic cleaner. Everything came out clean and beautiful. Fresh jets, fresh gaskets and all is well. Needle is on the middle notch. After the rebuild the blaster will idle beautifully, has a bit more power but still bogs and dies easily. At least now I can get it to move in first but still have to play with the throttle to achieve anything.
I also noticed that this has no air box any more, just an open element filter. I figured this could be an issue so I blocked most of it off with tape. This helped too but still not enough and there is less than 1 square inch of this filter not taped up. I sprayed carb cleaner around the base, and all other gasket surfaces, nothing changed, I believe there is no leaks. Compression test came to 110 with about 5 kicks and the fist kick brought the gauge to about 80. I know that 110 is low side of good. Plug was a bit black but it cleaned up nice. Also while the carb was off I took the reed cage off as well. Reeds were flat and clean, with no cracks and all seemed to move nice. They looked to be the factory fiberglass ones.
In the past I have noticed low power and slight bogging with a bad top end but this is way more extreme than that. Usually a bad top end will still let you ride just with no power and not much for top speed. HOw finicky are the ignition units in these things? I found a module that I believe is the ignition that was floating under the front bodywork that would arc to the chassis. I bolted this down, no difference in the performance.
Any help is appreciated.