how do the two compare on acceleration and top speed? i like my blaster cause its light and good for trails and a lil mud and creeks, but it just sucks at flat out cruising down the road at close to max rpms i dont even like the sounds it makes doing that lol. i know the dt200 would be alot better for cruising 60+.
dt200 blaster vs banshee?
- Thread starter awdcivic
- Start date
I can assure you that if you plan on cruising a blaster at 60+ mph you are in for a wild ride! the tires aren't balanced and the suspension is chit. As far as comparing a banshee to the dt200 i have no idea, I have never ridden any of them. What mods do you have done to your blaster?
dang really, ive done about 60 downhill and it was a smooth ride other than the engine and chain. if its got a rev limiter i hit it cause it sounded like it was bouncing off a limiter and i was going as fast as it would for like half a mile. got an 05 stock except .60 over and oil pump delete. it handles fine to me but ive only ever had utility quads before.
I'm not sure of the top speed of my bike. I do know that when I plug chop it gets a little hairy. It likes to start to drift side to side some.
DT200 = 32hp, Banshee = 36hp
Blaster = 320 lbs, Banshee = 390 lbs
Blaster is shorter and less stable at speed, Banshee less nimble.
Banshee has a bit of a harder pull in midrange, DT200 Blaster is more top end.
Blaster is a single cylinder 2 stroke, some vibes and fair traction. Wheelies a plenty!
Banshee is a smooth twin cylinder 2 stroke with very little traction, spins easy.
Steve
Blaster = 320 lbs, Banshee = 390 lbs
Blaster is shorter and less stable at speed, Banshee less nimble.
Banshee has a bit of a harder pull in midrange, DT200 Blaster is more top end.
Blaster is a single cylinder 2 stroke, some vibes and fair traction. Wheelies a plenty!
Banshee is a smooth twin cylinder 2 stroke with very little traction, spins easy.
Steve
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
Well that's good to know. So I have a problem somewhere then. I have 14/40 gearing with 21" tires so it's got a high top speed. I will be putting extended a arms on soon.
If your going to cruise down the road, and have vibration most likely you either have a bent rim or there just off balance.. Take the tires both front and rear to any auto shop and have them balance them. For an atv tire i would think like maybe 5$. I do car tires for 15$ each, dismount, balance, and re mount.. Now keep in mind a perfect balance (witch I'm sure you don't need) you would do both inner and outer with weights and also it could be as simple as turning the tire around the rim 180 degrees. Every tire and rim has a great and light spot. Some are even marked where the valve stem goes..( that's on a car or truck though)...Plus if it's shaking at your handle bars badly must likely its the front. Read you would most likely feel it in your seat.. Check for bubbles as well.
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
Tires can play A huge role in stability at speed.
things to check:
Cheaper tires can cause bad vibrations. Jack the front up on a block and spin each wheel. Get a long steel rule/ set square and use it as a straight edge to determine any erratic movement of the wheel, side to side and up and down.
things to check:
- Make of tire?
- Tire pressures! (must be equal)
- Rim buckles
- Caster (Bent spindle/ball joint mount)
- Bent frame
Cheaper tires can cause bad vibrations. Jack the front up on a block and spin each wheel. Get a long steel rule/ set square and use it as a straight edge to determine any erratic movement of the wheel, side to side and up and down.
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
For suspension stuff: http://www.blasterforum.com/suspension-14/guide-setting-up-your-front-suspension-49171/
Remember that as little as 1-2 degrees can be the difference between a wobble or not
Remember that as little as 1-2 degrees can be the difference between a wobble or not
No shaking at those speeds but still far from stable.
The tires and inflation pressures are not designed for those speeds.
Even a little bump or sudden steering input can instigate catastrophic sway.
I had a 660 Raptor that as no different. Banshees are a bit better due to their length, width, shocks, greater weight and low center of gravity.
Low profile tires are the largest improvement speed safety. Forget the 22"s, get the 18" if you want to do high speeds.
Steve
The tires and inflation pressures are not designed for those speeds.
Even a little bump or sudden steering input can instigate catastrophic sway.
I had a 660 Raptor that as no different. Banshees are a bit better due to their length, width, shocks, greater weight and low center of gravity.
Low profile tires are the largest improvement speed safety. Forget the 22"s, get the 18" if you want to do high speeds.
Steve
It is my son and my experience that the DT200 performance can be easily achieved and even exceeded with rechambering the head and some exhaust port porting. JoeAK47's head and cylinder work easily exceeds DT200 performance with an air cooled cylinder.
Steve
Show him this.
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug. Sorry broken link, it is light chocolate colour.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug. Sorry broken link, it is light chocolate colour.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
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