alright guys... i have an interesting question.... i have an 04 blaster that i just rebuilt the engine on, did the oil delete, and a key delete on, replaced my stator and clutch... reassembled everything and i can get it to run fine forward most of the time but once i try to turn it cuts off like its starving for fuel... i have also completely rebuilt the carb with new float reeds and jets and still same problem.. anyone else experienced this before or have any idea what i can do to fix this?
cutiing out around turns.. please help!!
- Thread starter daedaestoy
- Start date
You may ether have a bad wire from your kill switch or you fuel level in your carb bowl is to low. More likely it's in the wires from your kill switch.
What you can try is,starting it and turning the bars back and forth lock to lock. If that don't make it cut out then try lifting one side up while it's tuning. You only need to lift it a little. Tires about a foot off the ground. Hold for about half a minute. See how thAt go's and report back.
Your float level would have to be WAY off for this to affect it, but certainly possible. Did you adjust the float when you rebuilt the carb?
I'm leaning to electrical, tugging cables. If your bike is newer (03-06) then the ebrake switch is possible. If the wires are being pulled when you turn the handlebars, then you could be pulling a connection, the kill switch wouldn't be affected, but the TORS switch would. Also a tight throttle cable could be affecting the TORS, either the throttle or carb switches.
I'm leaning to electrical, tugging cables. If your bike is newer (03-06) then the ebrake switch is possible. If the wires are being pulled when you turn the handlebars, then you could be pulling a connection, the kill switch wouldn't be affected, but the TORS switch would. Also a tight throttle cable could be affecting the TORS, either the throttle or carb switches.
all the TORS stuff has also been eliminated and my bike is and 04..... but i cant keep it running long enough to do a tilt check .. i did alittle bit of tweeking to the float a few times up and down and it doesnt seem to make any difference either way
SOUNDS LIKE TWO PROBS NOW.
Define: "all the TORS stuff has also been eliminated"
On an 04, you can't elim the TORS box completely since it is part of the cdi. (note to self: create thread to replace 03+ cdi with earlier cdi) If you can't keep it idling, you might need to jumper the wires going up to the throttle switch. (on an 03+ you can't just unplug it like earlier bikes)
Sorry didn't notice you mentioned it was an 04 earlier, but shee is probably right about the ebrake. If that switch is activated, it kills the ignition, but for some reason not enough to make it die, just enough to make it bog horribly. UNPLUG the ebrake switch and try it then. I have had the switch just be loose before in its socket, and turning the handlebars can pull on it and make it activate.
Define: "all the TORS stuff has also been eliminated"
On an 04, you can't elim the TORS box completely since it is part of the cdi. (note to self: create thread to replace 03+ cdi with earlier cdi) If you can't keep it idling, you might need to jumper the wires going up to the throttle switch. (on an 03+ you can't just unplug it like earlier bikes)
Sorry didn't notice you mentioned it was an 04 earlier, but shee is probably right about the ebrake. If that switch is activated, it kills the ignition, but for some reason not enough to make it die, just enough to make it bog horribly. UNPLUG the ebrake switch and try it then. I have had the switch just be loose before in its socket, and turning the handlebars can pull on it and make it activate.
I had a pre '03 as my first Blaster and it did that. Runs fine and then you turn the bars and BLIP it would cut off. I did the Tors delete and it quit doing it. I would try jumping the TORS wires first.
on the TORS, is that the plug down by the headlight that has 1 yellow with a black line on it and 1 black wire going into it? if so i just cut those wires off completely... as for the parking brake switch do i need to jus loop those to to eliminate that also?
you have to jump some tors wires together on a 04. idk which ones so hopefully someone will chime in
Parking brake switch: Disconnected or cut, Don't loop or connect together.
Carb switch (yes yell/blk and blk wires): Disconnected or cut, Don't loop or connect together.
Throttle switch: Disconnected or cut. LOOP or JUMPER the wires together.
Personally, I'm not a fan of cutting wires. I would just tape them up with the harness.
BTW, what do you mean by, "and a key delete on,"? You didn't connect the wires together when you took out the key switch did you? That would be bad.
when i removed the key... yes i jus cut the ends of the wires off they are not looped.... where/what are the colors of the TORS wires? because i have them cut at the throttle cable or mab im wrong? that must be the throttle switch that the wires are cut to... where are the TORS wires at and what do they hook to? i have them confused with the carb switch im sorry.. i do just have that plug for the yellow/black and black wire unplugged, i need to unplug the parking brake switch still... im confused on where the throttle switch is so i can loop it?
Both the carb switch and throttle switch are yell/blk and blk wires. They are both part of the TORS system. On earlier bikes you could just unplug the TORS box under the hood and be done with it. On the newer the TORS is integrated into the cdi. I wish I could tell you why the one switch's wires need to be jumpered, but I don't know why. I just know that if the throttle switch isn't jumpered, then the damn thing won't run at idle. If you cut some wires going up to the right handlebar, then that was the throttle switch. Just connect those together,
The ebrake is a separate circuit but still plugs into the cdi/tors unit. If the switch is closed it kicks in a rev limiter at about 2600rpm for a major bog.
The ebrake is a separate circuit but still plugs into the cdi/tors unit. If the switch is closed it kicks in a rev limiter at about 2600rpm for a major bog.
ok... is the plug behind the headlight gunna be the one that is supposed to plug into the right handlebars do you know? and id that or is it not the one i need to jump?
Yeah, it would be in that area. The throttle switch would have had leads on it about 12in long, plugging in near the steering stem.
ok ill have to take a look at this tomorrow and see if i can find these cause this really sucks not running after i spent all this time and money and i cant even enjoy it....
ok! i went out and found the throttle and the cab. wires and i tried just looping the throttle ones as you had said before and it was still doing the same thing (cutting out all the time) i looped both the throttle and the carb wires and PRESTO! it ran! i had it running for almost20-25 mins around and around i went.... then i tried to stop to let another buddy ride and it wouldnt idle and stalled? now i have 3 new problems! lol! it wont idle and ever since i got off that time now once it starts it will stall at random and if you try to dump the throttle and give it all to her it falls on its face and stalls? what do i look for now? o! and i disconnected the parking brake wires too.
