crankshafts??

Reaper26

Member
Sep 5, 2012
215
0
43
alabama
i recently finished completely rebuilding my friends 04, hot rods crank, weisco pro lite piston, now its time i guess for mine, its been sucking air and i replaced all the seals took base gasket off and used yamabond, new head gasket, and still wont stop reving up, im guna do a full rebuild and have been looking at weisco hot rods and the vitos 3mm stroker, i dont want a big stroke, we mainly trail ride and go to the strip, so the vitos is cheaper than the hot rods and say no case work, is it worth it to go with that or the hot rods? ive heard that the weisco isnt that great? so which one would be the better choice?
 
We have sold many of each.... never a complaint from any of them.

The wiseco stroker is a +4mm... cases need trenched for install. any decent machine shop would be able to do this.... cant be much $ to do so.

Vitos is a drop in +3mm

Wiseco only offers a stock replacment..... if you go stock replacment, i feel its the best way to go as the kit comes with bearings, seals, gaskets and crank at a killer price.
 
the only thing thats ever been done is the top end, ive never been in the bottom of it, the seal that i know was bad was the flywheel side it was dry and cracked, the clutch side looked fine but replaced it too, i know the top end needs to be done its a little low on comp, but didnt have a new piston when i put it together to see where it was leaking, and my friend broke my leak tester after we did his, so i only assume the last place it could be leaking is the cases.
 
when i had the top end off yesterday i checked the gaskets on reed cage and the spacer, they both looked fine, the boot didnt have any cracks eaither, its been sitting a while so i checked the reeds, and cleaned the carb and put in a new needle and seat, cuz it was leaking.
 
if i go with the 3mm crank how big of a diff will it make? i mean would it be alot better than goin back with a stock stroke or just a little dff? theyre all about the same price soo. ive never put in or rode a blaster with a longer rod so i really dont know how much diff they feel over the stock crank.
 
when i had the top end off yesterday i checked the gaskets on reed cage and the spacer, they both looked fine, the boot didnt have any cracks eaither, its been sitting a while so i checked the reeds, and cleaned the carb and put in a new needle and seat, cuz it was leaking.

Looking fine is no test for leaks, did you leak test before starting?

Did you set the float level?
 
couldnt leak test it my friend broke my tester, so i know its pretty much a guessing game, and yea float is good, though the main jet needs to be changed, its a little BIG,
 
Is there any way you can get a little pressure in the crankcase to perform a soapy water test, because guessing ain't really good enough.

A too big of a main jet will not cause it to rev up.
 
i know its not the jet, but it does need to be changed its too big, when i get off im guna go to some parts stores and see if i can find a new gauge thatl screw back on mine, the only other leak tester i have screws into the head and has to have the air hose hooked up to it, and has no regulator, so i am not usin that, but maybe i can find sumthin to fix mine with.
 
just leak tested, base is fine, exhaust is fine, intake is fine, no leaks. just put in new crank seals, have no idea where its leaking.
 
IIRC they can leak at the collar on clutch side, have to seal it and key to crank. So is it holding pressure or not? Could be carb cap gasket or carb to carb boot connection
 
yea its holding, it held 6 psi yesterday for about 20 mins until i took it off, i pumped it back up to 5 about 10 mins ago and still holding. the air screw is 1.5 out, the boot looks good on the outside and inside, it tightens up good against the carb, i called my dealer this morn and they dont know either, i havent checked the seal on top of carb ill go do it now and let ya know.
 
ok this thing is really makin me mad, i put it back together after i checked reeds again and flipped them, new gasket on throttle cap, when i had it running i was playin with the air adjustment and screwd it all the way in, it would idle (high) then with the idle screwi tightened it and it idled when i hit the throttle it went sky high then wouldnt come back down, i turn idle screw and it did, but cut off, so could the tors system be messed up? ive never had any probs with it or on any other one, and if it is how do i bypass it?