ok im having problems bogging when at operating temp, just rebuilt topend, stock jets, airbox lid removed, tors removed, moose air filter, vforce reeds, needle clip in center groove, ive tried 3 diffrent plugs B7ES,B8ES,B9ES, im at about 3200 ft mts, of nc, its been hot and humid, in the 90s, im thinking crank case seals are bad, do i need special tools to get it apart and what do i need to look for when i get it apart?:-/
crank case ???
- Thread starter edgeslade
- Start date
Well you probably should not be using stock jets with that set up..sounds like you could be running very lean.
As for the seals, is it smoking a lot? And does the smoke smell kinda like burnt plastic?
It might not be the seals if its not doing that..but you should clean the carb and make sure none of the jets are clogged up. Like I said I think you need to re jet with those mods.
As for the seals, is it smoking a lot? And does the smoke smell kinda like burnt plastic?
It might not be the seals if its not doing that..but you should clean the carb and make sure none of the jets are clogged up. Like I said I think you need to re jet with those mods.
i had a 260, and i went back to the 230, if you dont mind read my other post,(bogging at operating temp) i dont know what else to do, ive cleaned the carb, and sometimes it runs fine
I see you've started a new thread. As for your question, you will need a flywheel puller to remove the flywheel on the left side of the motor. Buy the seals first. Chances are you won't be able to tell if they are bad til you remove them. A seal remover tool is nice but you can use a screwdriver to pry them out too. Read the manual before doing this so you can get an idea of what to do and what everything looks like.
If you find ANY oil, even a misting, in the left side cover then the seal is bad. The right side tends to cause oil to be sucked into the motor. Do you have to add oil regularly? It won't always be enough to cause much smoke. I just did both of mine. Both were bad and replacing them made a big diff in the LOW END. Don't know if it will help your bog but it can't hurt.
Seriously, all those things I listed in your last thread have happened to me too. All caused bogging or non-starting.
If you find ANY oil, even a misting, in the left side cover then the seal is bad. The right side tends to cause oil to be sucked into the motor. Do you have to add oil regularly? It won't always be enough to cause much smoke. I just did both of mine. Both were bad and replacing them made a big diff in the LOW END. Don't know if it will help your bog but it can't hurt.
Seriously, all those things I listed in your last thread have happened to me too. All caused bogging or non-starting.
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well what do i need to do?you said this has happened to you how do i fix the bogging, you said if there is oil in left cover(shifter side)? then seals are bad, can i take that cover off with out taking topend off? and do i need any special tools to do that if i can?
Left side: Remove cover screws, make sure you are using a #3 phillips or you will strip them. To get to the seal you need to remove the flywheel. (15 bucks for a special tool, go to a motorcylce shop) Two screws to remove the stator and you can see the seal. To just check for oil, all you need is to remove the cover. It should be bone dry inside.
Right side: Remove right foot peg. Drain trans oil. Remove kicker nut. Remove cover (appx 8 , 8mm bolts). Pay attention to kicker spring, if it comes out of its hole and unwinds, you will have to rewind later. Remove 5 clutch spring screws. Remove clutch pack. Unbend retaining washer and remove nut. Remove clutch basket. Remove crank nut and gear. There is the seal. Remove the retainer.
Replacing the seals, I just tapped mine in carefully with a 1/2inch wooden dowel and mallet. tap tap tap all the way around until seated.
Oh, and the clutch presure plate only goes back on one way.
Right side: Remove right foot peg. Drain trans oil. Remove kicker nut. Remove cover (appx 8 , 8mm bolts). Pay attention to kicker spring, if it comes out of its hole and unwinds, you will have to rewind later. Remove 5 clutch spring screws. Remove clutch pack. Unbend retaining washer and remove nut. Remove clutch basket. Remove crank nut and gear. There is the seal. Remove the retainer.
Replacing the seals, I just tapped mine in carefully with a 1/2inch wooden dowel and mallet. tap tap tap all the way around until seated.
Oh, and the clutch presure plate only goes back on one way.
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Air tools are a BIG plus. These crank and clutch nuts are a biotch without an impact wrench.
As you can see, the right side is a bigger project, but both are doable if you are careful and take your time.
Did you check those other things? You always want to check the simple things first.
As you can see, the right side is a bigger project, but both are doable if you are careful and take your time.
Did you check those other things? You always want to check the simple things first.
the right side seal is behind the primary drive gear
where the arrow is
and also make sure u line up the dots on the drive gear and the counter balancer gear.....look real close and u will see the dots, if they are not lined up u will have serious vibration probs
where the arrow is
and also make sure u line up the dots on the drive gear and the counter balancer gear.....look real close and u will see the dots, if they are not lined up u will have serious vibration probs
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