Cleaning / refurbishing faded scuffed up plastic


Aug 20, 2015
Rossville, Ga
I was in my garage removing decals and the leftover glue, looked over at my $3 pack of steel wool with coarse, medium and fine grits. I took a moment and cleaned a couple spots and pieces, and began to wonder what the word was on protecting the plastic after polishing it out with the fine grit steel wool. I turned to the number one blaster authority and suprI singly didn't see anything stickied, detailing how to refurbished and reseal your plastics. I am not sure what would be the best sealer or clearcoat, but I do know from experience that if you don't seal it after redoing the surface, it will go from looking almost new to white faded pale looking in a seasons time.
I am gonna do a little digging see what I can find on it , might even try to do a DIY in it as I am about to redo my plastics after removing the majority of the Rockstar graphics kit, it is really good thick vynil and came off without stretching or tearing.

If anyone wants the graphics I removed which is everything but the tank side, front of hood, and a little stripe in the outside of the rear fender, speak up and I will send them your way they are color matched for yamaha blue fenders, but might look in other color plastics if you wanted to accent handgrips, seat, rims, frame, and or whatever you please in yamaha blue.
To get an idea of what the graphics look like I have pics in my albums as well as my profile pic.

Anyhow to do a good DIY I would need a little help as far as what to seal the plastics with after refinishing, any ideas on a good way to fill the low spots of deep scratches would be useful as well. I thought of simply using a clear paintable silicone, to fill the low spots after razorING off the high stuff. Whatever the solution it would have to be clear or color matched as I will not be changing colors. A good clear urethane might work as well to fill scratches and for sealing the plastics, I am not sure what to use for that only that it has to be clear flexible and durable.
I use either Eagle One Wax as you dry Spray with microfibre cloths, or Mop and Glo Floor wax with a foam paint brush.

The Floor polish Seals the plastics tighter than 10 toes in a sock, but when it gets wet, it will look streaky. The Spray automotive wax works good, and is really easy to use. I've been leaning to that route alot more lately.
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I had done a combination of this with the razor blade and what Awk posted in the link.

Quick description of what I did:

just make sure you use nicer razor blades some of the poorer quality blades get these notches in them which can then scrape a groove in the plastic.

So First I had gone over it like the link showed. This was mainly just to get that surface layer off and then expose the nicer plastic below it. The razor blade on its own can produce a nice finish but I went a little further. After I got that top layer off with the razor I started to sand it with 180 or 300 grit sand paper. And from there I would just get progressively larger with the grits until I got up to 2,000 and by then I would create a really nice/shiney surface. If you do use sand paper, try to avoid the paper that is black/dark brown. I had problems with them staining the white plastic. If you use the light brown colors and you'll be fine.
I once used a razorblade on a litrle yamaha 50 2 stroke 4 wheeler it was the one with the little monster truck body that had the face on the front. Worked well.ended up the neighbor kid (who was big for it) rode it sith bad bearings i the rear and screwed up th shaft drive.
I was pretty mean tho' single speed and it would ride a wheely to about 20mph when it run out of steam, it would also take off sidewaysi. Gravel with 120lbs on it.

The blaster isnt near as bad and i had a 12 pack 4 of each coarse, med ,fine. andit has worked great.