Fouled some plugs on these last couple hot days and went to walmart. Was curious if they had spark plugs, didn't expect to find NGK's but i did find a Champion 8902 power sport with br9es written on the box for crossreference. Brought it home and had to use a steel bolt to get it to fit my NGK plug cap (it's made for fit the threaded top not the smooth top the champion has), and it's been running on this plug for awhile. No fouling, haven't pulled the plug to look at it yet. Anyone else have good luck with Non-NGK plugs? I'll post pic's in the next couple days.
champion spark plug anyone ?
- Thread starter sethat8e
- Start date
If your fouling that many plugs you are running to rich. You need to do some plug chops with the b8es and adjust your jetting.
That "smooth top" unscrews to expose the threads that mate with your cap (not the stock one) there is no need to ghetto rig it. Either way if it's a b9 equivalent its not the right heat range.
As above, you should be using a b8es or equivalent.
Are you aware that changes in temperature requires a change of jetting, the hotter the temp the smaller the jet.
That is why you are fouling plugs!
Are you aware that changes in temperature requires a change of jetting, the hotter the temp the smaller the jet.
That is why you are fouling plugs!
Agreed, if you never readjusted for the last couple " hotter days" then ur running ritch most likely! That's why ur fouling plugs! Take wife's blasters advise and plug chop! Get the Walmart br9es out and use a Ngk br8es
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
This is a good to go plug./\ /\ /\ /\
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
This is a good to go plug./\ /\ /\ /\
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
Thanks for all the advice, and a plug chop is definetly in store. Looking at the manual i found two different plugs listed for the blaster the B8ES and the BP8ES, so I was curious what the P meant. Looking at NGK's chart I saw it meant it has a projected insulator making it less prone to fouling. Well to make the story short i found an old (but still relevant) article on spark plug types and selection. How you can read spark plugs and select them - by Gordon Jennings.
That P is an R and it designates that the plug contains a resistor to stop TV and Radio interference.
Unless you wish entertainment other than adrenaline you only need a b8es.
