cast piston?

05blasterkid

New Member
Apr 24, 2010
460
2
18
Corning, NY
whats the best brand of cast piston I can get? I can't find anyone that makes a cast piston except for vitos butthey only make then got the big bore kits. please help
 
whats the best brand of cast piston I can get? I can't find anyone that makes a cast piston except for vitos but they only make then got the big bore kits. please help


that cast piston will crap out on you. for a couple extra $15 bucks, you could get Wiseco and they will last 2 or 3 times longer. but Pro X, WSM, and Yamaha on top of vitos is the only manufacturers that i know of that make a cast piston
 
whats the best brand of cast piston I can get? I can't find anyone that makes a cast piston except for vitos butthey only make then got the big bore kits. please help
cast = crap !!buy wiseco der only 60 for a kit inc rist pin,bearing and rings!(pro lite is the best!)
 
Not sure why everyone is so negative towards cast pistons. I have no issues w/cast pistons at all. I run pro-x pistons in my banshee. I don't see the wisecos being all that they are cracked up to be. My buddy runs them in his banshee and when you inspect the pistons, the skirts have collapsed around .005". Garbage. My cast pistons don't do that. In my sleds, I use the OEM pistons, which are cast, and I'll put on thousands of miles, w/no issues. There is no way anyone is putting thousands of miles on their atvs, before each rebuild. I guess just my .02.
 
I hate to argue against phragle, but here it goes.... I got this from Duncan Racing's tech guy. They specifically don't recommend forged pistons (like wiseco) in Blasters (and maybe all aircooled 2-strokes) because to prevent seizure from excessive piston head expansion (after warming up) it is necessary to run a fairly high amount of piston to cyl wall clearance. This leads to piston slap and skirt failure. They recommend Pro-X (either made by or sold by Wiseco) cast pistons. But hold on! There are cast pistons and there are hypereutectic cast pistons. The latter are much stronger, almost as strong as forged, but lighter and not prone to excessive expansion because they are less dense than forged.

Pro-X is a hypereutectic cast piston and so is Namura. I'm not sure about WSM. I recently put a Namura in my race motor because I liked the anti-scuff coating they put on them. And BTW, when I took out my Wiseco after only one season, CRACKED PISTON SKIRTS.
 
1.Loran is a really nice guy, but he is also one hell of a salesman

2. He will also tell you to replace that piston by 50 hours of riding time.

3. Forged pistons live much longer than cast and rattle around towards the end of there life, cast pistons crack and come apart.

4. Very few people here do anykind of preventative maintinance on there bikes, much less regular compression checks and hour logging needed to safely run cast pistons. They are much more worried about spray bombing there lug nuts and posting piks.

Or we could look at this like cars, Corvettes and Lambos are nice cars, a corvette you put gas in and drive, google the cost of an oilchange on a Lambo, how about a clutch replacement?... now your kid backs into mailboxes all the time, does burnouts and donuts, washed the car every 6 months if he's lucky and covered the check engine light with a sticker because he got tired of seeing it. would you recommend a $60k corvette or a half a million dollar lambo????
 
i was wondering about Namura, i also liked their antiscuff stuff but ended up with Wiseco because i wanted strength. As a geology student i can tell you that preferred allloy mineral grain orientation found in forged pistons is theoretically much stronger than randomly aligned mineral grains in cast pistons. OBVIOUSLY, things such as incorrect clearance and severe heat problems from worked motors is another aspect. in terms of heat resistance, the only reason i can think of for cast MAYBE outlasting forged is that the metal is more prone to plastic deformation rather than brittle failure of a forged. Meaning a cast piston may distort and become out of round with severe heat causing four point seizures whereas a forged wouldnt cause you the head scratching problem and would just break and shatter. Youngs modulous, someone should research this...
 
if your other factors such as too big a clearance and poor running in are not taken care of, any piston will break. Think abouth the forces involved, worn thrust washers that you thought youd just reuse when you lkast built your engine and put in a brand new wiseco will cause the rod to have too much side play and hence early failure. so to compare your bike with your mates who uses cast is a dangerous comparison. A machine is only as reliable as the person who builds it. A more careful and precise builder using stock parts could get a engine to outlast a not some careful engine builder with the best parts...

Put a cast piston and a forged piston in a lab and to some serious deformation tests on it and no doubt, the forged will be stronger.
 
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LMFAO. I knew I was sticking my neck out. BTW tho, that WISECO might have had 50 hours on it. Still, if if was only about sales, I would have thought he'd try to go for the more expensive forged piston. And to be honest, I've had several good conversations with him and he never tried to sell me anything.

I was still amazed to see my Wiseco was cracked. It still had good compression. The only reason I took that ticking time-bomb apart was to put on my ported cyl.

Hey Blaner, interesting stuff!
 
Phrangle, how about a 1988 ods delta picked up off CL for $300?

ALL engines will eventually come apart. No matter the manufacturer, or the design, or the amount of aftermarket parts. The one thing that sticks in my mind about the cast vs. forged piston debate is not deformation, skirt breakage, or material strength.

It's when a cast piston blows, they crumble and get between the crank and case. When a forged piston blows they lock up tighter than a drum in the sleeve and leave loads of aluminum stuck to the cylinder but GENERALLY stay in one piece. If nothing else, they don't crumble...I have a wiseco forged piston in the topend on my bike now. I'm preparing a ported top end for installation soon and already have the corresponding wiseco forged piston sitting on the shelf...
 
I had a Namura piston in my Blaster and it ran great. I was going to put a Namura in my LT250R too but I couldn't get them big enough so I put a Wiseco in and I sold it with about 20 hours on it and the thing was barley running it had lost so much compression, in only 20 hours.
Another thing is so many people cold seize their bikes with Wiseco pistons, they don't understand you have to let the bike warm up really good with a forged piston.

Wiseco pistons are good, but they're not perfect, like everyone seems to think.
 
umm... isnt piston breakage or "blowing" differently, ie crumbling or just seizing a direct result of material strength? meaning a forged piston siezing and not crumbling as opposed to cast which do means the forged is stronger.
As for one lasting only 20hrs, read my previous post.
 
i was told that when the cylinder is warmed up and starts expanding the piston will too. But, a forged piston will actully expand quicker than the cylinder thus causing problems, where the cast piston wont do that
 
i was told that when the cylinder is warmed up and starts expanding the piston will too. But, a forged piston will actully expand quicker than the cylinder thus causing problems, where the cast piston wont do that

Correct, its oftern what is called a '4 corner siezure' it comes from not properly warming the bike up before riding. If you pull your top end apart and there are scuff marks on each side of wrist pin, your not warming it up long enough