You have two screws. The one to the right is the air screw, it cotrols the air / fuel ratio of the carb when running on the pilot (idle) circut. Start with that at 1 1/2 turns out, with the idle screw (on left with lock nut) turned out. Right hand on throttle to blip it if it trys to stall, turn air screw 1/4 turn (max) at a time , waiting a bit for the engine to adjust to new setting. You are adjusting it to get the smoothest/highest idle while holding very slight pressure on thumb throttle.
When you get it to idle properly, then you set the idle screw (which is actually a slide stop, it keeps the slide from going all the way down) When you get the idle screw where you want it snug the locknut down. If you don't the screw can vibrate out and cause an air leak.
I highly suggest start reading up on how to tune a carb. In the Clymers repair manual (don't know about online manual) there is a diagram on what circuts opperate at what throttle opening and how they overlap.
How does the needle that came in this "jet kit" compare to the stock needle? length/taper/diameter?
When you get it to idle properly, then you set the idle screw (which is actually a slide stop, it keeps the slide from going all the way down) When you get the idle screw where you want it snug the locknut down. If you don't the screw can vibrate out and cause an air leak.
I highly suggest start reading up on how to tune a carb. In the Clymers repair manual (don't know about online manual) there is a diagram on what circuts opperate at what throttle opening and how they overlap.
How does the needle that came in this "jet kit" compare to the stock needle? length/taper/diameter?