carb rejetting

You have two screws. The one to the right is the air screw, it cotrols the air / fuel ratio of the carb when running on the pilot (idle) circut. Start with that at 1 1/2 turns out, with the idle screw (on left with lock nut) turned out. Right hand on throttle to blip it if it trys to stall, turn air screw 1/4 turn (max) at a time , waiting a bit for the engine to adjust to new setting. You are adjusting it to get the smoothest/highest idle while holding very slight pressure on thumb throttle.
When you get it to idle properly, then you set the idle screw (which is actually a slide stop, it keeps the slide from going all the way down) When you get the idle screw where you want it snug the locknut down. If you don't the screw can vibrate out and cause an air leak.

I highly suggest start reading up on how to tune a carb. In the Clymers repair manual (don't know about online manual) there is a diagram on what circuts opperate at what throttle opening and how they overlap.

How does the needle that came in this "jet kit" compare to the stock needle? length/taper/diameter?
 
Larry's Shee said:
You have two screws. The one to the right is the air screw, it cotrols the air / fuel ratio of the carb when running on the pilot (idle) circut. Start with that at 1 1/2 turns out, with the idle screw (on left with lock nut) turned out. Right hand on throttle to blip it if it trys to stall, turn air screw 1/4 turn (max) at a time , waiting a bit for the engine to adjust to new setting. You are adjusting it to get the smoothest/highest idle while holding very slight pressure on thumb throttle.
When you get it to idle properly, then you set the idle screw (which is actually a slide stop, it keeps the slide from going all the way down) When you get the idle screw where you want it snug the locknut down. If you don't the screw can vibrate out and cause an air leak.

I highly suggest start reading up on how to tune a carb. In the Clymers repair manual (don't know about online manual) there is a diagram on what circuts opperate at what throttle opening and how they overlap.

How does the needle that came in this "jet kit" compare to the stock needle? length/taper/diameter?
Click to expand...

im not sure about the needle size difference i just know itcame with the moose jet and also the pilot that im runnin also came with the moose jet kit.
 
Larry's Shee said:
You have two screws. The one to the right is the air screw, it cotrols the air / fuel ratio of the carb when running on the pilot (idle) circut. Start with that at 1 1/2 turns out, with the idle screw (on left with lock nut) turned out. Right hand on throttle to blip it if it trys to stall, turn air screw 1/4 turn (max) at a time , waiting a bit for the engine to adjust to new setting. You are adjusting it to get the smoothest/highest idle while holding very slight pressure on thumb throttle.
When you get it to idle properly, then you set the idle screw (which is actually a slide stop, it keeps the slide from going all the way down) When you get the idle screw where you want it snug the locknut down. If you don't the screw can vibrate out and cause an air leak.

I highly suggest start reading up on how to tune a carb. In the Clymers repair manual (don't know about online manual) there is a diagram on what circuts opperate at what throttle opening and how they overlap.


How does the needle that came in this "jet kit" compare to the stock needle? length/taper/diameter?
Click to expand...

i got it to idle properly the air screw is maybe 3turns out and the idle screw is all the way out so what now?
 
89blaster89 said:
ok so i have my air screw all the way in then 1.5 turns out and my idle is all the way out, so what your saying to do is put the idle screw in 1 turn from were its currently at and then turn the air screw in 1 turn in also from were its at.
Click to expand...

No! Leave the air screw alone, leave the idle screw alone. Get on the bike, start it. If you have to, feather the throttle until you get the idle screw turned in until it idles on it's own. Once you have it there, now turn the idle screw in to increase the idling rpms. Then start playing with the air screw. Sorry the long reply, had a phone call.
 
Ok, if you are 3 turns out, you actually need to go to a bigger pilot jet inside the carb. The spring on the air screw might not be holding enough tension on it and it could fall out because of vibration.
 
Turn the air screw back in half a turn and compensate with the throttle set screw(The big one on the carb).If you went out 3 turns that is border line to far and possible the screw may fall out after riding.You should not turn it past 2.5 turns from what the manual says.If you half to go out this far sounds like your pilot is slightly on the rich side.Turning air screw in richens the mix and out leans it I believe(Screw out lets in more air ,in lesens air more fuel to air).Also make sure your tors delete is deleted.It will not idle if the tors button in the thumb throttle is depressed.
IT IS BEST YOU GET A CLYMERS MAINTENENCE MANUAL AND ALSO UTUBE IS A GOOD SOURCE TO BETTER UNDERSTAND YOUR PROBLEMS SO THAT MEMBERS CAN EASLY BETTER HELP YOU.
 
The one who knows for sure what pilot should be in there, is your blaster. You just gotta do the trial and error test method. I know it is frustrating, I'm going thru it now myself. Just keep at it, and soon enough you will be helping out the next fella.
 
#32.5 pilot jet.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Turn the idle screw in so that you get some revs to warm the motor up.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a fast idle.

Adjust air screw either way, in or out, to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs to allow the motor to respond.

Adjust idle screw out for desired idle .

It is not rocket science, just follow the above steps, tis so simple.

If the above does not work, then you could have bad reeds or an air leak.

You then need to do a leak down test.
 
Last edited:
Blaaster said:
Stock carb, start here.

#280 main jet, stock needle, clip on middle slot. Pilot jet#32.5.

Toss that Moose needle.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Turn the idle idle screw so that get some revs to warm the motor up.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a fast idle.

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs to allow the motor to respond.

Adjust idle screw for desired idle .

It is not rocket science, just follow the above steps, tis so simple.

If the above does not work, then you could have bad reeds or an air leak.

You then need to do a leak down test.
Click to expand...
ok so i will order a stock needle and a 32.5 pilot jet and do i just turn idle screw in until its fast idling and turn air screw out a tiny bit at a time until its fast idling then after the air screw is fast idling turn the idle in until its at a good idle spot
 
89blaster89 said:
ok so i will order a stock needle and a 32.5 pilot jet and do i just turn idle screw in until its fast idling and turn air screw out a tiny bit at a time until its fast idling then after the air screw is fast idling turn the idle in until its at a good idle spot
Click to expand...

I thought you had it idling well? Didn't you have the pilot set? If so, there is no reason to start over.
 
Rich said:
You should only need to adjust the air screw.By going out 3 turns you are leaning the low range circuit(pilot)To compensate for to large of pilot jet which in your case thats to many turns out.With your mods the factory pilot jet(32.5) should be spot on and should idle with no more than 1.5-2 turns out.
Click to expand...

Firstly you need to adjust the idle screw to raise the slide to provide a reference point, so that you can fine tune the pilot with the air screw.

If the slide is at the bottom, of course the air screw will have to be way out to provide enough air to run.

The first thing to do is to set the air screw 1.5 turns out.

Then adjust the idle screw, to lift the slide to get a faster than normal idle.

Fine tune the air screw from there, for fastest rpm.

Re adjust the idle screw back, to slow down the idle to the desired rpm.
 
Last edited:
89blaster89 said:
ok so i will order a stock needle and a 32.5 pilot jet and do i just turn idle screw in until its fast idling and turn air screw out a tiny bit at a time until its fast idling then after the air screw is fast idling turn the idle in until its at a good idle spot
Click to expand...

Let me use your words, they may be easier to understand than mine.


just turn idle screw in until its fast idling and turn air screw out a tiny bit at a time until its fast idling then after the air screw is fast idling turn the idle in until its at a good idle spot

You nearly got it right. Change the fast, to fastest. Change the out, to in or out.

You may need to turn the air screw either way to get the fastest idling.
 
This will be my last investment in this thread, I hope you use it wisely. Nobody can tell you what size pilot or main to run, only the Blaster itself can. It depends on way to many factors on and off of your machine. Figure out your pilot, if you can't get any higher idle out of it, by the process Blaaster and I have told you, then that is the size you want! Once you get that settled, take if for a spin and see how much throttle you can give it without it running rough. If you only get to 1/4 throttle, you need to play with the setting on your needle...any needle will do the trick, as long as you have 5 slots to adjust it to and depending on if you are super lean or rich on the needle you will need to make a choice if you want to change to a different needle....once you get 1/4-3/4 throttle running well, then pay attention to WOT (Wide Open Throttle), if it runs bad you need to find out why by doing a WOT plug chop and seeing if it runs rich or lean and adjust your main jet accordingly.

I hope this helps, because you are getting way too much information that is contradicting previous information and I have a feeling it is confusing you. Seeing how it is a stock carb, and if you want good sound advice from someone here on the forum, look up AWK08 and talk with him, he's pretty smart and one of THE most respected guys on the forum. Maybe even Slickerthanyou can help. Good Luck. Also, seeing how you said you're from NY, check out my CP and joing my Upstate NY Riders group.
 
32.5 pilot jet.

Stock needle, clip on middle slot.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Turn the idle screw in so that you get some revs to warm the motor up.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a fast idle.

Adjust air screw either way, in or out, to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs to allow the motor to respond.

Adjust idle screw out for desired idle .

It is not rocket science, just follow the above steps, tis so simple.

If the above does not work, then you could have the wrong float level, bad reeds or an air leak.

You then need to do a leak down test.
 
Blaaster said:
32.5 pilot jet.

Stock needle, clip on middle slot.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Turn the idle screw in so that you get some revs to warm the motor up.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a fast idle.

Adjust air screw either way, in or out, to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs to allow the motor to respond.

Adjust idle screw out for desired idle .

It is not rocket science, just follow the above steps, tis so simple.

If the above does not work, then you could have the wrong float level, bad reeds or an air leak.

You then need to do a leak down test.
Click to expand...
ok im about order the stock needle and 32.5 pilot do i need to get anything else or any other size jets?
 
Get a few main jets, 2 below and 3 above what you are using now to allow to help get jetting correct by plug chopping.
 
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