Carb Leak

[best]

Ok so this may be completely wrong and outh there but can the wrong size fuel line be letting in too much gas and causing the carb to flood, which no matter how clean and well adjusted mine is it will still spit out gas? When I bought the quad in the summer it had a piece of Goodyear line which is still on it.

No, line size will not cause carb overflow.
Take the carb off, put a clean line on it and try blowing through it.
Take the float bowl off the bottom of the carb and see the effect the float has on blocking or allowing fuel.
By blowing thru the line you should feel any leaks or see if the float angle is right.

Worn seat or needle, divot on the tab, loose needle valve seat, all good got-cha's.

Steve

 

[Aromeo14]

I ordered the rebuild kit along with a few other things, I'll let you guys know what happens when it comes in thank you guys for all your help it was really appericated

 

[Aromeo14]

So the rebuild kit did the trick, no more spitting out gas but it still wont run. It idles for a second or so and dies any new ideas?

 

[Blaaster]

Maybe the petcock is clogged up.

Crack the drain screw open and see if a steady dribble of gas flows out of the drain.

 

[Aromeo14]

you think it could be clogged even though it is brand new?

 

[Awk08]

So the rebuild kit did the trick, no more spitting out gas but it still wont run. It idles for a second or so and dies any new ideas?

did you recheck/reset the float height after installing the new float valve ?
i know you had been fooling with adjusting the tang for the old one ?
you're not allowing it to push the center pin in on the float valve while adjusting it are you ?
see the second pic in the "adjusting float height" thread

 

[Aromeo14]

Surprisingly I did reset the float height that's why I'm not so sure what else it could be

 

[Awk08]

not to re-read thru all of this, but......

have you tried a new plug lately ?
those reeds are proven good visually ?
the pilot and airscrew circuts are clean and adjusted (1.5 out turns to start) ?
the TORS is eliminated ?

if all that checks out..........

i'm going to start leaning towards an electrical problem soon. sometimes a plug will spark good when tested against the head, but weak under pressure in the cylinder.
things to check:
strong bright blue spark when tested ?
the plug boot isn't burnt inside and making good contact with the plug ?
the plug wire and coil have been tested with an ohm meter for spec ? (in the manual)
ohm meter continuity of the plug wire when bent and twisted ? (in the manual)
ground at the coil are good and clean ?

 

[Aromeo14]

I was going to check the plug I haven't looked in a while and the reeds did look good to me I'll check the boot when I look at the plug and the tors is eliminated

 

[Blaaster]

It has been flooding its head off and there is a great possibility that the plug is saturated with gas and oil.

Try a new plug after you have expelled all the buildup of fuel that could be in the crancase.

 

[Aromeo14]

Pulled the plug today, tip was really black and just not looking so good. The inside of the boot was fine so I think Im going to try a new plug.

 

[Aromeo14]

Well I got the plug and gapped and put it in and well to my surprise it ran so thank you all for your help

 

[Blaaster]

Well I got the plug and gapped and put it in and well to my surprise it ran so thank you all for your help

Well what do you know, the old, new plug in the spark plug hole trick.

Glad it was a simple fix!