Carb Leak

Aromeo14

Member
May 27, 2012
26
0
32
New York
So when I attempt to start my blaster after a few kicks gas sprays out of the overflow and I'm not sure why. The carb has been cleaned and it had a brand new petcock. It wont run more than a few seconds if it starts at all. Any advice or possible solutions are appericiated and thank you in advance.
 
if that doesn't work, and you're sure the float is adjusted correctly, and not sticking (check for grooves where the pin goes thru on the inside of those cast posts, where the metal tang rides against them) or the float ballasts themselves aren't cracked and taking on fuel, then it may be time for a new float valve ?
do not buy just it, i've seen them for $50+
just buy a whole rebuild kit for under $20 and it includes a new float valve, i like the moose brand.
 
I'm pretty sure I did it correctly, I took it apart and went over it very carefully because I'd liketo just get back to riding. When I get it all apart it can't hurt to look again so I will
 
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So I took it all apart, adjusted the float, and tried the Colgate so tomorrow morning I'll put the carb back on and try to get it running.
 
So I took it all apart, adjusted the float, and tried the Colgate so tomorrow morning I'll put the carb back on and try to get it running.

so the float was off/you had to bend the tang to get it correct ?
 
Make sure the tang is not like this.

The indent can weiner the needle sideways causing it not to cut the fuel off.

239m3m.jpg
 
Ok so this may be completely wrong and outh there but can the wrong size fuel line be letting in too much gas and causing the carb to flood, which no matter how clean and well adjusted mine is it will still spit out gas? When I bought the quad in the summer it had a piece of Goodyear line which is still on it.
 
I doubt it is the fuel line size, the fuel needle valve is clearly the source of the issue, if the float is adjusted correctly and there is no indent like previously posted then is is a sealing issue between the conical needle and its brass seat
 
Re-cap.

No dirt in system,, varnish removed, float not leaking, no ridges on posts, tang smooth, O ring in good condition, float level correct, float not fouling the bowl.

Is the spring on the plunger of the needle working ok.

If everything is assembled correctly that only leaves the rubber tip of the needle, which could be hardened and/or deformed.
 
That recap is right and I'm going to say your correct with the hardened tip I remember thinking it felt a bit hard but didnt think too much of it because it was pretty dirty, so would the next step be a rebuild kit?
 
Well not one thing on this has panned out so it wouldn't surprise me if it didn't, it's been one of those fix one problem and then a new one shows up so I'm hoping this is the last of the motor related issues. As far as a kit I read something about moose, where would be a good place to get one ebay, or an online parts dealer?