I have a 2000 blaster and my rear cable brakes refuse to work. ive herd that they never actually work. why is this?
Cable Rear brakes
- Thread starter TyBlast1123
- Start date
I have the same problem on my (new to me) 2000 blaster. I think it's just a hopeless design of a brake.
I'll be receiving a GSXR rear hydro from AWK next week.
I'll be receiving a GSXR rear hydro from AWK next week.
Hydros are nice, but you can make the cable brakes work just fine.
Swap out the original long cable (with parking brake) with a shorty cable. You can get this shorty cable from ebay for ~$30.
Also, take apart the rear stock caliper assembly and clean and grease it up.
Good luck!
Swap out the original long cable (with parking brake) with a shorty cable. You can get this shorty cable from ebay for ~$30.
Also, take apart the rear stock caliper assembly and clean and grease it up.
Good luck!
then repeat every few months, while you have it open to adjust the "self adjuster, that does not, will not, has not, ever worked.
the cable adjuster is just that, as all cable adjusters are,
to adjust for cable stretch, not adjust the brake, throttle, clutch ect.
they must be opened up to be adjusted properly
how many guys have had thier hydro brake caliper off or disassembled in this last year ????
lets not mention the cable caliper needs disassembled to install new pads every year
the gsxr's don't even need taken off to install new pads, just drop them in like bread in the toaster....5 minutes tops
banshee/blaster/gsxr hydro brakes rule. period
While they can be problematic, just like anything with a little care they'll work just fine.
As mentioned, get the shorty cable that eliminates the whole parking brake deal. This is 75% of the problem, IMO. Then just take things apart and don't lose anything! You don't even have to take the adjuster assembly apart, just clean it or add a little more grease. Take the Oring off the piston and clean it and the piston and the brake caliper cylinder. Replace the Oring if it's worn. Grease the Oring lightly, and grease the cylinder very lightly, but only grease behind where the Oring is going to be, otherwise it will attract dirt. Re-assemble and it should work great. Every so often you may have to take the assembly apart and clean it depending on where you ride.
As mentioned, get the shorty cable that eliminates the whole parking brake deal. This is 75% of the problem, IMO. Then just take things apart and don't lose anything! You don't even have to take the adjuster assembly apart, just clean it or add a little more grease. Take the Oring off the piston and clean it and the piston and the brake caliper cylinder. Replace the Oring if it's worn. Grease the Oring lightly, and grease the cylinder very lightly, but only grease behind where the Oring is going to be, otherwise it will attract dirt. Re-assemble and it should work great. Every so often you may have to take the assembly apart and clean it depending on where you ride.
when my blaster was actually together last year I went thru my rear mecha caliper completely, cleaned it all up inside, greased every part of the assembly's internals, sealed up the gasket nice and used a shorty cable.
was a 1000% improvement and the brakes actually worked pretty damn well. cost me ~$40 overall
the self-adjuster was hanging up too, but after the "overhaul" everything was nice.
put a little time in to fixing the rears and they won't be an issue
was a 1000% improvement and the brakes actually worked pretty damn well. cost me ~$40 overall
the self-adjuster was hanging up too, but after the "overhaul" everything was nice.
put a little time in to fixing the rears and they won't be an issue
i found that the pads get jammed in due to the rubber o-ring and dirt/rust build up where the o-ring needs to move. when i have mine apart i lightly sand the inside where the o-ring rubs then greese the o-ring and the inside where u sanded the pad should slide back and forth freely. and a shorty brake cable.
I ride in the West (California) and do a lot of mountain / fire roads with as many water crossing as we can find. The rear breaks seem to get water in them no matter what we do and this leads to corrosion and breaks sticking.. tear them apart, clean, grease, and your good to go. I left out the o ring on one of the blasters to see if it really makes a difference.... it was causing the pad to stay in the break on position and not move freely, so for now its off.
Once the " self adjusting mechanism " goes on the mechanical brakes its game over ! They don't sell that part by itself so you are then forced to buy/replace the whole caliper ... At that point it makes more sense, and is more cost effective to purchase a hydro set up !
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