The spark looks a nice blue yes I ohmed the stator and most things, no to the cdi and yes to the coil, and yes, it ran perfect untill 3-4 weeks ag
o
Blaster murders plugs and spudders at full throttle
- Thread starter motoman159
- Start date
The spark looks a nice blue yes I ohmed the stator and most things, no to the cdi and yes to the coil, and yes, it ran perfect untill 3-4 weeks ag
o
Are you subjected to salt air?
Start at the stator.
Pull flwheel with proper puller. Is key absolutely perfect?
Does flywheel rattle? = junk
Clean inside of f-wheel and any rust off stator poles and pick-up sensor. Does the stator have a ground wire under a bolt/screw? If yes pull timing plate and clean corrosion off plate and engine case, add dielectric grease. Blue loctite to screws.
Now you are going to double check, tripple check ALL connections that they are clean/no corrosion and tight, add di-grease. This includes anywhere there is a ground lug.
Check your tors and parking brake bypass, if you taped twisted wires, pull tape and make sure there are no Green Weinies (corroded copper)
Run coil ground wire either to engine or if stator didn't have ground run to point where ground from stator goes to frame.
Trim 1/4" from coil wire and install cap with di-grease
You may even have to pull all tape from harness and check EVERY SINGLE WIRE for cuts, breaks, worn insulation.
Last resort on wires is to by-pass switches. Have to look at diagram as to normally open or closed. Open means no flow of power. IIRC, the on/off is N O, you would jus disconnect the wires, key is N C, you would have to jump the wires together to supply power to CDI. Do this step last.
CDIs normally work or they don't. Not saying it might be malfunctioning somehow.
On to the carb
It must be clean as new. Quick douche with carb cleaner may not be good enough. Be sure you can blow air through ALL passages/holes. Float level set, float needle clean, not worn or cracked. Shake the float and listen for gas in it. Put some gas in glass or metal container and "sink" the float, looking for air bubbles indicating a leak.
JMHO, your results may, and will vary, in which case buy a box of plugs, sorry
Start at the stator.
Pull flwheel with proper puller. Is key absolutely perfect?
Does flywheel rattle? = junk
Clean inside of f-wheel and any rust off stator poles and pick-up sensor. Does the stator have a ground wire under a bolt/screw? If yes pull timing plate and clean corrosion off plate and engine case, add dielectric grease. Blue loctite to screws.
Now you are going to double check, tripple check ALL connections that they are clean/no corrosion and tight, add di-grease. This includes anywhere there is a ground lug.
Check your tors and parking brake bypass, if you taped twisted wires, pull tape and make sure there are no Green Weinies (corroded copper)
Run coil ground wire either to engine or if stator didn't have ground run to point where ground from stator goes to frame.
Trim 1/4" from coil wire and install cap with di-grease
You may even have to pull all tape from harness and check EVERY SINGLE WIRE for cuts, breaks, worn insulation.
Last resort on wires is to by-pass switches. Have to look at diagram as to normally open or closed. Open means no flow of power. IIRC, the on/off is N O, you would jus disconnect the wires, key is N C, you would have to jump the wires together to supply power to CDI. Do this step last.
CDIs normally work or they don't. Not saying it might be malfunctioning somehow.
On to the carb
It must be clean as new. Quick douche with carb cleaner may not be good enough. Be sure you can blow air through ALL passages/holes. Float level set, float needle clean, not worn or cracked. Shake the float and listen for gas in it. Put some gas in glass or metal container and "sink" the float, looking for air bubbles indicating a leak.
JMHO, your results may, and will vary, in which case buy a box of plugs, sorry
Hey man thanks, ill do this tomorrow after football.. I ordered a new stator tonight..
Now I cant even get it to start. Its got 160 psi compression, replaced the cdi now my sparks amazing. Took the whole harness off cleaned EVERY fitting. Its getting fuel, but it wont even start on pure starting fluid and a new plug. And I took the reeds out and there fine
Did you get the key on right ? check the key ! don't take much for it to be off and not start !
off the wall here, how about a leak down check ? you can have top end compression and still have a air leak down lower !
Sporty
off the wall here, how about a leak down check ? you can have top end compression and still have a air leak down lower !
Sporty
If you have compression, spark at the correct time and fuel it should start.
Have you flooded it?
Is the woodruff key in the flywheel still intact?
Do you have an air leak?
Have you flooded it?
Is the woodruff key in the flywheel still intact?
Do you have an air leak?
If I dont get it running tomorrow its not going to west virginia and I reallyyyyy want to take it
