Ok I did the q tip cleanin method put my carb on I turned on the fuel and it poured out the overflow immediatly?!? The quad did fire and run but its floodin itself
blaster mad flooded?? no start leakin from cover!!
- Thread starter blaster0187
- Start date
How does the rubber tip on the float valve look? if it is worn or damaged, you'll have to replace it. Also you should check your float height. Check this link out for the floats.
http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/setting-floats-34122/
http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/setting-floats-34122/
It looked great actually this entire carb is spotless there was a lil bit a trash in it....but inside and outside the case it appears to be a brand new carb....(this whole quad looks brand new)
Ill check the float level and get back thanks
Ill check the float level and get back thanks
turn the carb upside down with the bottom off and tap the floats with ur finger, there should be bouncy, what happens is the float valve/spring could be bad which also should act like a spring, the little piece that slides onto the metal float frame, if it doesnt bounce when u push on it u need a new one. its a simple fix,
here is a pic of it.
http://filipi.com/ngw/roady/carboverhaul/32afloatspring.jpg
here is a pic of it.
http://filipi.com/ngw/roady/carboverhaul/32afloatspring.jpg
well def the height needs to be right otherwise it will piss out the overflow, first thing to check then the other issues i told u...
20 - 21.5mm's for that float height
measured from where the gasket would sit, to the top of the float
like this.....
also, pull the floats, and visually inspect the rubber tip on the float valve for signs of rips and wear
do not try to buy just the flaot valve, they're like $50+ at the stealerships, and i believe ebay too, but if you order the moose rebuild kit, the float valve is included, for under $20
measured from where the gasket would sit, to the top of the float
like this.....
also, pull the floats, and visually inspect the rubber tip on the float valve for signs of rips and wear
do not try to buy just the flaot valve, they're like $50+ at the stealerships, and i believe ebay too, but if you order the moose rebuild kit, the float valve is included, for under $20
depending on the size of the carb i know the 34mm carb stock settings are 16mm but i went 5mm past that and it was at 21mm and it ran good till the float spring went bad. but the whole fuel in left side cover...not good, u may have to get a new stator now, as to why it wont start now. replace crank seal and do a leak down test.
These guys have all given you good advice in my opinion,
but here is a little trick that might have you riding this afternoon:
Fix your carb, like they told you, so float is right and it doesn't leak.
Get the gas out of the crankcase.
Best way I've found is to push or tow it in gear (2nd or lowest possible) with the fuel shut off and wide open throttle.
This will pump the bottom end clean, out into the pipe, or better yet, take the pipe off and do it.
Now fix the seal, and here is the tip...
Buy a can of engine or transmission "Leak Stop" or equivalent, designed to be put
into your engine oil in a 4 stroke to stop oil leaks or restore automatic transmission function.
What it does is soften and swell the seals, restoring their seal.
The lip seal on the crank of your Blaster hardens with time, heat and age.
Flip the blaster over onto its right side, pull the cover and the stator off,
and pour a bit of the "Leak Stop/Seal Saver/whatever" onto the seal.
Leave it there a couple hours, clean it up and put the bike back together.
More often than not, (like 90% of the time) this works and will keep on working for years if it does.
Done it on many sleds and bikes. If it doesn't work, the crank is rusty or the seal is cracked and you have to replace it.
Hope this helps and sees you riding this afternoon. -10C up here, its sledding for me!
but here is a little trick that might have you riding this afternoon:
Fix your carb, like they told you, so float is right and it doesn't leak.
Get the gas out of the crankcase.
Best way I've found is to push or tow it in gear (2nd or lowest possible) with the fuel shut off and wide open throttle.
This will pump the bottom end clean, out into the pipe, or better yet, take the pipe off and do it.
Now fix the seal, and here is the tip...
Buy a can of engine or transmission "Leak Stop" or equivalent, designed to be put
into your engine oil in a 4 stroke to stop oil leaks or restore automatic transmission function.
What it does is soften and swell the seals, restoring their seal.
The lip seal on the crank of your Blaster hardens with time, heat and age.
Flip the blaster over onto its right side, pull the cover and the stator off,
and pour a bit of the "Leak Stop/Seal Saver/whatever" onto the seal.
Leave it there a couple hours, clean it up and put the bike back together.
More often than not, (like 90% of the time) this works and will keep on working for years if it does.
Done it on many sleds and bikes. If it doesn't work, the crank is rusty or the seal is cracked and you have to replace it.
Hope this helps and sees you riding this afternoon. -10C up here, its sledding for me!
I checkd the height and its perfect.....put back on she fired rite up!!!!!I've got the seal comin ill install it so that's fixed thanks for all the help guys...is there any actual crankcase oil?? Mine has the oil block off w no tank....like I said I'm new to the 2 stroke game lol not sure about them
There is no crankcase oil in the engine, but there is oil in the gearbox.
Make sure you use the right gear oil, regular engine oil will cook the clutch plates.
With no oil tank you have to mix your oil in your fuel.
Use high grade 2-stroke oil. The cheap stuff will cost you in repairs!
The problem with a leaking crankcase seal is that it sucks air into the
engine making carb tuning (idle, bog) impossible, and risks leaning out
and destroying the engine from piston meltdown and detonation
if you continue to run it with a leaking seal.
If the seal is tight, it wouldn't have let the fuel leak out.
That is why members here warned you may have a bad seal.
Changing the seal is a very difficult task, requiring special tools and ability.
Besides using the seal softening additive I suggested, sometimes flooding
the engine with gasoline is a good thing. Gasoline swells seals too, but they
often shrink again when dried out. The flood might have done you a
temporary service, as well as giving you notice of the seal problem until
you get the new one in.
Well I've got the seal coming.....I'm an auto tech and am not totally lost....just not used to messing with short strokers I'm getin used to it still ....I'm picky and want my quad rite....any advise givin will be performed
