Blaster has no spark

ok the blk/red with blk was at 220. The wht/red with blk was at 19.9. So thats good right. So if so then it must be my cdi unit under the hood then right. Cuz im not getting any spark to my coil.
 
Generally, if you've checked everything else, then it is the cdi. This includes checking the continuity of all the wiring up to the cdi and ignition coil, and checking all connections and grounds. Do the same checks up by the cdi that you did for the stator (with the stator plugged in.)

PM me your email address. I'm assuming you can open jpg files? I will send you the wiring diagram.
 
im kinda having the same problem we were out riding the other day and it died on me while i was riding down the road. then i got it running again and it seemed fine after we were done i took it home and pressure washed it off and now it won't start i have no spark. any idea where i should start im pretty much lost. can anyone tell me if the blasters have a fuse in them and where it would be if they do have one.
 
Ok im getting no where. have checked the conection from stator to the CDI and its good. Light tested the Orange wire that plugs into the coil and nothing. put on a defferent CDI pluged in and still not starting... Im getting a little frustrated here.

On the control unit i unpluged the BLK/WHT wire is that right?
i also took off key and conected the 2 wires together and the same with the run/off switch.

the TORS is pluged in.

Im just giving you where its at right now. Im lost here.
 
Damn Cory, it shouldn't be this hard.

Summary....
You reassembled the flywheel and stator,
flywheel key was good
Stator coils within spec
Blk/wht wire disconnected at TORS control box (leave unplugged)
tried new cdi

Correct so far?

Unplug the blk/wht wire from the cdi. This bypasses anything that can kill the ignition, including the key and on/off switches. (if it starts you will need to plug this back in)

You snould go ahead and test the igniton coil too, just to be sure. Orange wire to ground, 1.44 - 1.76 ohms. Unscrew the spark plug boot, orange wire to spark plug wire, 5.29-7.92k ohms. Spark plug boot, 4-6k ohms.

At this point there are only four wires involved, the orange from the cdi to the coil, the blk/red and wht/red from the stator to the cdi, and various blk wires that eventually are hooked to ground. Youv've checked connections but now you need to start looking at continuity. You might have a bad wire or a bad ground. Sections of wire can be checked by poking apins into the wire and checking continuity between the pins. Sometimes it is helpful to unplug things to isolate them.
 
ok guys i have good and bad news first i bought a new cdi today and it has spark. Yaaaa. Well bad news is it still wont start and i taked to a tech at the dealership and they say it sounds like i spun the crank. So the timing is off. So should i start a new thread on bottom end tear down or start looking for a new motor?
 
ok guys i have good and bad news first i bought a new cdi today and it has spark. Yaaaa. Well bad news is it still wont start and i taked to a tech at the dealership and they say it sounds like i spun the crank. So the timing is off. So should i start a new thread on bottom end tear down or start looking for a new motor?

Good for you man, mechanical stuff is so much easier. (kinda)

But WTF does he mean you "spun the crank"? It is a single cylinder motor. There is only one place for the crank and timing to be. Did you not get the crank key back in right? Shearing a key will def play with your timing.

Or is he talking about some kind of crank damage?
 
that spun the crank comment sounds like B.S. to me, you are sure you got the flywheel back in place exactly as it came out? is it getting gas? and your compression is good? (110lbs+)
 
yeah that mechanic was a real douche. there is no timing to mess up. you can spin the crank all you want and it will still have the same timing.
 
ok here is what i have done. New plug. New plug cap. New coil. New cdi. Have taken off key and run/off swith both unpluged. The blk/wht off cdi is unpluged. Blk/wht on controil unit unpluged. Have done a ohm test and came out good all the way to the cdi box. Have great spark now. I have tried kicking it over with and without TORES pluged in. It seems it dosent even want to start like they key is off but i get great spark. And as for the key on the crank i cant put it on any other way so i dont see how i would get it on wrong. What you guys think about the fuel getting to the piston? If not what else?