did you add extra gease to them? That's what that linc is about. They come with just enough grease to keep them from rusting.
Blaster Fix up!
- Thread starter Longview
- Start date
If you didn't show me that link i would have had no idea. That's really cheap of them to do that to a customer.
I'm debating on weather or not to have my swinger extended before i put everything back together.... 8-|
My son just replaced a front wheel brg on his SS Silverado, if there would have been a way to even stick a grease needle into it I'd put more grease into it. They are VERY expensive unit brgs.
We replaced one on a Honda in the shop the other day, part costed like 130 bucks, Bigger truck i would think a lot more money.
if you want them to last longer than one season,
again.......
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/wheres-grease-40007/
My take on extra grease, which I believe is not required.
The bearing, itself, consists of an inner race, an outer race, balls and a cage which evenly distributes the balls. Common bearings are designed to allow for a radial load with some limited axial loading. ALL BEARINGS ARE LUBRICATED WITH OIL.
Grease, itself, is an oil sponge. The base (spongy) part of the grease varies depending on the manufacturer, temperature, environment and user preference. The grease holds the oil in suspension and allows the oil to flow during operation. The oil compresses between the bearing balls, inner and outer races and the cage, reducing friction. Ball bearings have small, microscopically rough surfaces on the balls, these surfaces move the oil, holding it to the ball during operation.
When too much grease is added, the grease is compressed between the bearing surfaces, increasing pressure and resulting with heat. Too little grease causes the surface friction to increase, resulting with heat.
If a bearing heats up any extra grease that cannot be contained within the seal will be expelled.
When the bearing cools the grease will be drawn back into the bearing, if there is any contamination of the expelled grease by water or dirt, this will be drawn back into the bearing, eventually causing its destruction.
The manufacturer puts adequate grease in their bearings. Just enough to allow expansion without expulsion, and enough for lubrication.
The bearing, itself, consists of an inner race, an outer race, balls and a cage which evenly distributes the balls. Common bearings are designed to allow for a radial load with some limited axial loading. ALL BEARINGS ARE LUBRICATED WITH OIL.
Grease, itself, is an oil sponge. The base (spongy) part of the grease varies depending on the manufacturer, temperature, environment and user preference. The grease holds the oil in suspension and allows the oil to flow during operation. The oil compresses between the bearing balls, inner and outer races and the cage, reducing friction. Ball bearings have small, microscopically rough surfaces on the balls, these surfaces move the oil, holding it to the ball during operation.
When too much grease is added, the grease is compressed between the bearing surfaces, increasing pressure and resulting with heat. Too little grease causes the surface friction to increase, resulting with heat.
If a bearing heats up any extra grease that cannot be contained within the seal will be expelled.
When the bearing cools the grease will be drawn back into the bearing, if there is any contamination of the expelled grease by water or dirt, this will be drawn back into the bearing, eventually causing its destruction.
The manufacturer puts adequate grease in their bearings. Just enough to allow expansion without expulsion, and enough for lubrication.
Last edited:
However you pack a bearing, especially with a lot of grease, you must keep all contaminants away from the bearing surfaces.
Some peeps do this on a carrier by filling the complete carrier with grease so that the only thing that can be sucked back in is clean grease, but woe betide if that grease gets contaminated.
Some peeps do this on a carrier by filling the complete carrier with grease so that the only thing that can be sucked back in is clean grease, but woe betide if that grease gets contaminated.
On the topics of carriers, anyone have an easy way to take of hub bolts, bolts on the disc, and the two big axle nuts off? I tried and tight is an understatement!
Two things may help, muscles and elbow grease.
If those fail, heat and torture with a big hammer.
If those fail, heat and torture with a big hammer.
Figured, only bolts i'm worried about are the disc bolts, they're all allen keys and i don't want to strip them.
I'll try it once my heater heats up my garage, with all this snow it's like an ice cube in there.
Do chains come without master links? With BMX bikes the only time i saw a chain without a master link in it was when it was a stock chain, if it's the same with these chains, my chain is 13 years old!
I believe chains for motorcycles all come with master links.
Wow that is an old chain, how are the sprockets?
Wow that is an old chain, how are the sprockets?
I'll put up pictures, Rear is alright, the teeth on the front are bent so it almost looks like a ninja star.
Do not cheap out, it is time to replace the whole set.
The back one may look fine but it will be worn out as well.
New chain and sprockets are the way to go!
The back one may look fine but it will be worn out as well.
New chain and sprockets are the way to go!
Similar threads
