Blaster dynoed

They also dyno in 4th gear iirc.

thats semi correct, it's different for all machines, to get top hp, it must be run wide open in the gear that is closest to 1:1 ratio, and that is 5th gear on a blaster, not 6th

6th gear 0.905
5th gear 1.056
4th gear 1.25
3rd gear 1.667
2nd gear 2.214
1st gear 3.091

here's some other info top soeed, copied from another thread, link at the end.........


keep in mind that this is without wind resistance, friction, weight etc. just how much the wheels spin and how far you would get. here we go

okay so we say 8500 rpm. the primary reduction of the blaster is 3.227. so with the crank spinning 8500 rpm, the clutch output will be spinning 2634.03 rpm

next we will do what 6th gear affects. the 6th gear ratio is 0.905. so with the clutch output spinning 2634.03 rpm the output to the front sprocket will be spinning 2910.53 rpm.

now the secondary reduction ratio with 14/40 gearing will be 2.86 so with the front sprocket spinning 2910.53 rpm the rear will be spinning 1017.67 rpm

now with 20 inch tires each revolution will move you 62.83 inches so at 1017.67 rpm you will be moving 63940.21 inches per minute. or 60.55 mph


http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/theoretical-blaster-top-speed.39217/


blaster specific gearing calculator:
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/theoretical-blaster-top-speed.39217/
 
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MEh, the ass dyno is iffy sometimes lol. Most people can't tell the difference in a Blaster with and without an airbox lid, but we all know which makes more power. I'd be hard pressed to find anyone that can feel a 2-3hp difference in anything that makes more than 10hp.

Also, I don't like to use a dyno for anything other than measuring changes. Picking up 1-2hp here and there can add up to 10hp after several changes, but you'd never feel those differences on the ass dyno.
 
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i've never seen a dyno chart with that huge flat spot on top like that , clearly showing the main jetting is off, IMO

for comparison....

ct240 chart
ct240.gif


toomey b1 comparison chart
BlasterFinalComparison.jpg


and the pipe shootout dyno charts on stock unported cylinder
003-10.jpg



notice any huge flat spots anywhere ?
again......your dyno guy is clueless
:)
 
He's not clueless. This guy knows his sh*t. I wouldn't of had him build and dyno my banshee motor if he didn't. He wanted to pull the cfm off and do a run and I said no because I'm running the box either way. Plus it would of cost more time on the dyno.
 
Based off of what I know about fluid dynamics, I can almost bet you that the CFM airbox isn't the issue. If anything, it has to be jetting. If it was the airbox causing the flat spot, you'd have a big spike before the flat area, not a low spot. You'd also see a slight taper off, followed by a huge drop if it was in fact the resonance properties of the airbox.

If it is airbox related, it won't be because of the design of the airbox, but rather another factor that the airbox is uncovering.

A flat spot like that makes me think that it has to be ignition or fuel related. Changing the airbox may give you more power, but you'll be affecting how the engine runs as a whole, so you can't pinpoint it for sure. Something else may be off as a result of the airbox. Keep the airbox and find what that something else is.

It's kind of like going to +3 a-arms on shocks setup for stock a-arms. You'll think that the a-arms suck, but the truth of the matter is that you didn't have the shocks setup for the a-arms. You think the CFM airbox sucks, but the truth of the matter is that something else is wrong.
 
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Something is not right with that dyno tuner!
From about 7000rpm to about 8000rpm it went flat!:eek:

fixed !

again, that 160 main is too much for an FMF pipe.


He's not clueless. This guy knows his sh*t. I wouldn't of had him build and dyno my banshee motor if he didn't. He wanted to pull the cfm off and do a run and I said no because I'm running the box either way. Plus it would of cost more time on the dyno.

he very well may be a banshee einstein ?
but he can't tune a blaster with one of the most popular mods, a CFM airbox ?
what about a stock airbox ?
or are his tuning abilities limited to a specific intake design ?


I keep looking at that dyno, and I think it should peak out at about 26 to 28HP.

my thoughts exactly.
throw a right bend pipe on there to match that 35mm carb, jet correctly , and easily find low 30's hp.
 
Could his stock cdi have an issue hitting the high rpm and be cutting out? Or a weak ignition coil causing the spark energy to fluctuate at those high rpms? Maybe the spark flame is being blown out. I don't know, just asking.
 
I have to run with series muffs here. Dnr are pricks here. I don't know if there is a RH pipe that works with q series fmf.
 
I do not know that much about dynos, but there seems to be too many variables here?

A 15:38 sprocket combo, a pretty tall order to produce power to the wheels!

A FMF pipe designed to produce its power in the low/mids.

A large bore carb, which is suited to perform at its best with a pipe designed for high end power.

A rich fuel condition, which will rob some power.

The dip in the Dyno graph at 7000rpm leads me to believe that the rich condition is allowing the engine to falter at that point and preventing further power gain or sustain.

Revert to stock gearing, fit a carb to complement the pipe, reduce the fuel input (and plug chop to confirm) and have another Dyno run performed.

Or maybe the Dyno was having a bad day!:D
 
All in all,,,,,,, when you are going to go get dynoed prepare to spend more then a few min on "what you brung" prepare for jetting, air box/filter, sprockets ( atleast front) otherwise you dont know what direction to head in.