Bike shuts down at WOT!?!?

Sep 22, 2015
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hello everyone I'm a noob on the forum but I've been checking on here and got tons of info from searching the site.

PROBLEM: If I'm in 6th gear at WOT for to long the bike bogs and shuts down. Doing research on this site I found that the problem would be with the TORS. So with the things I found on here I deleted it. At the thumb throttle and on the box and connected the two wires.

BUT I still have the same problem… WHAT ELSE CAN I DO?

Just notice the other day if gas is on and bike is sitting off gas drips out the overflow tube

The bike is mostly stock:

Full FMF FATTY
K&N filter no lid stock box
Added Battery with new adjustable 75watt stator set at 0

I do not believe the bike was jetted but I will check to make sure

Bike is a 06 if that matters
 
Float level. Your bike is using more fuel
At WOT than is being refilled into the float bowl fast enough. So you either have a obstruction And that could also be why your needle is not seating and allowing you carb to overflow or you need to adjust your float level . When you are WOT you are using the main jet and that also could have a obstruction . With you mods I would think you should have around a 290 to 310 main . That's just a guess
 
what reeds ? their condition ?
I put new reeds without the factory curved reed stops and experienced what I read is "high speed flutter"
the petals couldn't close fast enuf to keep up with the rpm's and it would shut down.
replaced factory reed stops and cured it
 
If the carb has not been jetted to suit the FMF then you maybe suffering overheating causing the piston to tighten in the bore.

Chec out those jets.

The main should be in the range of 300-310.
 
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Got them off its a 250 main jet. Reeds look fine to me
 

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I also just realize that it's a spacer between the carb and reeds. Would I need to account for that and the main jet size?
 
no rejet for a spacer.
do not run it with a 250 main jet, thats too small for an FMF pipe
buy 270 thru 310 main jets and plug chop down to perfection
 
Question do you run a risk welding the ball on the push rod doing a chop? Don't want to go through that again lol
 
I know some mite have a melt down reading this and I am not saying a plug chop is not the best way to get Jettin correct . But I have been racing dirt bikes at a national level for. Many many years now and even worked for Yamaha at one point in my life. And I have never in my life chopped a plug yet . Again not saying it's not the best way. But I can assure you that when guys are changing jetting at races for altitude or temp. They are not cutting there plugs up .
 
I know some mite have a melt down reading this and I am not saying a plug chop is not the best way to get Jettin correct . But I have been racing dirt bikes at a national level for. Many many years now and even worked for Yamaha at one point in my life. And I have never in my life chopped a plug yet . Again not saying it's not the best way. But I can assure you that when guys are changing jetting at races for altitude or temp. They are not cutting there plugs up .


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(3rd time this nonsense about not cutting plugs has been posted recently)


experienced carb tuners aren't on here asking for advice.
but for a new 2 stroke owner, possibly re-jetting for the first time, by himself, with no experienced mechanic standing there teaching him, plug chops (cutting off the threads) is the best way to view the smoke ring, learn jetting, and know it is correct. period.
a $4 spark plug, or even $20 worth, versus a $300 top end rebuild, how lucky do you feel today ? :)


the way I see it, PLUG CHOP can be interpreted 2 ways:

what most think "plug chop" means........

1. chopping the threads off the plug to veiw the smoke ring, which a newbie should do at least a few times to learn what to look for.

or how I interpret and do it.......

2. CHOPPING THE THROTTLE at whatever throttle position is being tested, then read the smoke ring by
using a flashlight and magnifying glass to view the smoke ring.


maybe we should start calling it "throttle chop/plug read" to not offend experienced tuners ?
 
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And I have never in my life chopped a plug yet . Again not saying it's not the best way. But I can assure you that when guys are changing jetting at races for altitude or temp. They are not cutting there plugs up .
When you have arrived at the correct AFR by performing the plug chop procedure it is an easy matter to choose the correct jet to suit changes in temperature/humidity/elevation, experienced pit mechanics know how to do it well.
 
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Ok so I started out with a 300… could barely get into 5th it was bad. So I jumped down to a 280 and ran a lot better but wasn't quite there. Unfortunately I didn't get a 270 or 260 so now I got to wait.

But a bigger concern now I heard a pinging nose coming form what sounded like the cylinder head. What could that be?
 
But a bigger concern now I heard a pinging nose coming form what sounded like the cylinder head. What could that be?

pinging in the cylinder is detonation, and it will destroy your piston,
DO NOT RIDE IT AGAIN UNTIL IT'S CAUSE IS FOUND !

detonation is usually caused by a lean AFR mixture, timing issues, or too low of octane fuel for the compression of that cylinder.

has it been leakdown tested ?
what octane fuel ?
fresh fuel ?
what compression ?
stock blaster head ?
did you plug chopped any of the jets you tried ?
or you have that much experience jetting 2 strokes you don't need to plug chop ?
 
pinging in the cylinder is detonation, and it will destroy your piston,
DO NOT RIDE IT AGAIN UNTIL IT'S CAUSE IS FOUND !

detonation is usually caused by a lean AFR mixture, timing issues, or too low of octane fuel for the compression of that cylinder.

has it been leakdown tested ?
what octane fuel ?
fresh fuel ?
what compression ?
stock blaster head ?
did you plug chopped any of the jets you tried ?
or you have that much experience jetting 2 strokes you don't need to plug chop ?

No leakdown test
89
Yes
Stock head
Have not plug chop the 280 jet yet.

I was going to do it starting with the 300 but with how terrible it ran I was pretty sure it wasn't right. I've already ordered 270 and 260 and I'll go from there.

Should I do a leakdown test first?
 
every 2 stroke engine should be leakdown tested before even being started, and definately before any jetting can be done successfully.
if it's not leak free, proven by a passed leakdown test, you're wasting your time and probably $
 
Bear in mind that an engine running on the destructive side of lean will run like a dog with acid on his testicles, but quickly fry the piston.

As Awk said do a leak test now.