Here goes nothing. When they tell you to remove the stock sleeve, you need to bore it out. The factory casts the cylinder around the stock sleeve. The factory sleeve isn't smooth on the outside like your new one. It has a bunch of lumps on it to keep it from moving in the bore. Don't even try to do this by splitting the sleeve in half. It won't work! When the sleeve is removed, you keep cutting to get the proper interference fit to the new sleeve. We use .004. The next step is to cut the top of the cylinder to accept the ring on the top of the new sleeve. Now the cylinder is ready to have the new sleeve installed. This is done with heat, not a press. Any attempt to press the sleeve in will ruin the heat transfer from the cylinder walls to the cooling fins. When done properly, the new sleeve will drop into the freshly prepped cylinder with no resistance. The ports in the sleeve have to line up with the ports in the cylinder immediately. If the cylinder cools before the ports are lined up, you just ruined your cylinder. When the ports are lined up, we put the cylinder in a press and apply pressure to the new sleeve. We do this to prevent the sleeve from “milking” up. Now that the hard part is done, crack a beer and wait for the cylinder to cool down to room temp (68.5 degrees). I agree with the member that said it's an oversize sleeve that lets you bore it to whatever size you want. In your case, you have a bunch of cutting to do. You stated 6mm. If this is the case, removing about a quarter inch from the cylinder is not a normal bore and should cost you dearly. Just for the record, a piston should not fit into any sleeve. Inside diameters of sleeves are always smaller than the pistons to allow the shop to bore them to size. The finish of a sleeve is rough and will eat a set of rings alive. Now the port matching, or porting happens. When the porting is finished, the cylinder will need to be bored to accommodate the piston. All of the sharp edges on the inside of the cylinder should be removed. Check the ring end gap before assembly. We use the following;
Check the ring end gap. The gap should be .004" per 1.000" of bore.
Example: your cylinder has a 2.500" cylinder bore
2.x .004 =.010
Hope this helps.