Big doubts on a 240cc kit

I just got this on the mail YAMAHA 200 BLASTER 240 240CC WISECO BIG BORE KIT:eBay Motors (item 360179398460 end time Nov-23-09 04:51:57 PST).

So heres my 2 problems.
1- They send me a 66mm sleeve, and know say and i quote: "That is the big bore sleeve part number, good for 66-74mm pistons."... i have to bore 6mm of this new sleeve, Is this normal?

2- Instead of a Wiseco piston kit, they send me a "Wossner"... they say, and i quote: "We send woosner pistons now because wiseco pistons were breaking."... Anyone knows this Wossner high performance pistons ?
 
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i am running a Wossner piston in my 240, Wildcard said that they are a very good forged piston.
 
you should not have to bore the new sleeve to a big bore sounds like you got a stock sleeve...i could be wrong check with a builder and find out for sure....i know wildcard sells these kits try talking to him.
 
it doesnt even look like it has exhaust ports on it

This is what came in it.

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SDC11308.jpg

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does that piston fit down inside that sleeve, if so i'm sure theres specs on here somwhere that tell clearences of the piston and ring end gaps, if they check out you're good to go, and i've heard the woosner's were good

edit....i see thats an LA sleeve kit from atv unlimited, both reputable company's imo
 
they did not quit using wiseco's because they were breaking..wiseco quit manufacturing the 72mm pistons...pretty much everyone that used wiseco is now going with wossner because they are a quality forged piston built by the germans.
 
what i think you got is a stock big bore sleeve (i forgot the real name for them) but basically what it is, is a sleeve that is thicker then stock one so you can now be able to bore it from stock 66mm to 74mm. I know they make them for the banshee. but like everyone else said run it by one of the builders on here they should be able to help.
 
yea, from the look of that sleeve, it looks like you will have to bore it out to the 72mm for the piston, the walls on that sleeve are thick.
 
that doesnt seem like avery good deal to me...you can get a already bored big bore sleeve for like 100 bucks already bored to a 72mm...plus 140 forged piston, dosnt seem like to good of a deal if you have to bore it out your self...machine work is where all the big money goes

never seen one you had to bore yourself. its not a real big bore kit then...its a stock sleeve with thicker walls
 
i mean i paid a total of $269 and will probably spent another $150 (at least) for machine work...
$430 and lot of work and few days to do....
Vito´s bolt on for $550. ( and still keep the actual top end for spare )

If anyone is thinking ona 240 kit think of the above... i know im starting to think i should have gone for the Vitos.
 
yeah thats what they're talkin about, you have to remove the stock sleeve and bore the cylinder a little for this sleeve to fit in, i think i readthats how all the bbk sleeves in a stock cylinder work, it shouldnt cost that much to have that sleeve put in????
 
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kennedy can do that install for you. but shipping may be $$$$. thats not normally what a BB sleeve should be.....i didnt know they made that type for blasters....a BB sleeve kit should be a 240 with some thickness for more bores. like a stock sleeve.....

wow, that sucks dude....did you just order it, or ask any ?'s first?
 
Here goes nothing. When they tell you to remove the stock sleeve, you need to bore it out. The factory casts the cylinder around the stock sleeve. The factory sleeve isn't smooth on the outside like your new one. It has a bunch of lumps on it to keep it from moving in the bore. Don't even try to do this by splitting the sleeve in half. It won't work! When the sleeve is removed, you keep cutting to get the proper interference fit to the new sleeve. We use .004. The next step is to cut the top of the cylinder to accept the ring on the top of the new sleeve. Now the cylinder is ready to have the new sleeve installed. This is done with heat, not a press. Any attempt to press the sleeve in will ruin the heat transfer from the cylinder walls to the cooling fins. When done properly, the new sleeve will drop into the freshly prepped cylinder with no resistance. The ports in the sleeve have to line up with the ports in the cylinder immediately. If the cylinder cools before the ports are lined up, you just ruined your cylinder. When the ports are lined up, we put the cylinder in a press and apply pressure to the new sleeve. We do this to prevent the sleeve from “milking” up. Now that the hard part is done, crack a beer and wait for the cylinder to cool down to room temp (68.5 degrees). I agree with the member that said it's an oversize sleeve that lets you bore it to whatever size you want. In your case, you have a bunch of cutting to do. You stated 6mm. If this is the case, removing about a quarter inch from the cylinder is not a normal bore and should cost you dearly. Just for the record, a piston should not fit into any sleeve. Inside diameters of sleeves are always smaller than the pistons to allow the shop to bore them to size. The finish of a sleeve is rough and will eat a set of rings alive. Now the port matching, or porting happens. When the porting is finished, the cylinder will need to be bored to accommodate the piston. All of the sharp edges on the inside of the cylinder should be removed. Check the ring end gap before assembly. We use the following;

Check the ring end gap. The gap should be .004" per 1.000" of bore.
Example: your cylinder has a 2.500" cylinder bore
2.x .004 =.010
Hope this helps.
 
Here goes nothing. When they tell you to remove the stock sleeve, you need to bore it out. The factory casts the cylinder around the stock sleeve. The factory sleeve isn't smooth on the outside like your new one. It has a bunch of lumps on it to keep it from moving in the bore. Don't even try to do this by splitting the sleeve in half. It won't work! When the sleeve is removed, you keep cutting to get the proper interference fit to the new sleeve. We use .004. The next step is to cut the top of the cylinder to accept the ring on the top of the new sleeve. Now the cylinder is ready to have the new sleeve installed. This is done with heat, not a press. Any attempt to press the sleeve in will ruin the heat transfer from the cylinder walls to the cooling fins. When done properly, the new sleeve will drop into the freshly prepped cylinder with no resistance. The ports in the sleeve have to line up with the ports in the cylinder immediately. If the cylinder cools before the ports are lined up, you just ruined your cylinder. When the ports are lined up, we put the cylinder in a press and apply pressure to the new sleeve. We do this to prevent the sleeve from “milking” up. Now that the hard part is done, crack a beer and wait for the cylinder to cool down to room temp (68.5 degrees). I agree with the member that said it's an oversize sleeve that lets you bore it to whatever size you want. In your case, you have a bunch of cutting to do. You stated 6mm. If this is the case, removing about a quarter inch from the cylinder is not a normal bore and should cost you dearly. Just for the record, a piston should not fit into any sleeve. Inside diameters of sleeves are always smaller than the pistons to allow the shop to bore them to size. The finish of a sleeve is rough and will eat a set of rings alive. Now the port matching, or porting happens. When the porting is finished, the cylinder will need to be bored to accommodate the piston. All of the sharp edges on the inside of the cylinder should be removed. Check the ring end gap before assembly. We use the following;

Check the ring end gap. The gap should be .004" per 1.000" of bore.
Example: your cylinder has a 2.500" cylinder bore
2.x .004 =.010
Hope this helps.
Great info!
15 letter limit....