Best bang for the buck motor build

just put in some new 2stroke tranny fluid. also figured out what parts i need to repair the siezed rear caliper. i took out the guts, and just left the pads in etc etc. they sell the whole moving part assembly for like 110 bucks from yamaha. cant beat that.

i ordered a helmet on monday, didnt get here yet. borrowed my buddys wich practically brand new so i can ride tomorrow.

sat on a new 450r at the dealership, the suspension is amazing. i could only imagine how it feels on th dirt.

back to the blaster, gonna go riding tomorrow for the first time in 6 years. so looking foward to it.

still havent ordered any parts for the blaster yet, soon, soon haha.

stratton.
 
you can put a 450 rer shock on the blaster

yeah a 400ex shock would be a great upgrade imho. much better then the stiff factory suspension thats on there. maybe im getting old, im 30, but after a few hours of riding my lower back hurt everytime i hit a big bump or landing a jump. im chalking it up to the suspension being a little stiff way to much air in the tires at first i had like 25psi in there lol and prolly once i dropped it down still running like 15psi or so (didnt have a gauge that read that low at the time) and my riding position. im 6'2 so i need to raise the handle bars up higher for a more natural riding position. Also ive been weight training for years, so my joints arent the best do to heavy lifting.

The blaster ran perfect, i had a blast literally. I was surprised at its quickness even in completely stock configuration. The trails I rode were mostly 2nd and 3rd gear trails, very tight, with very tight turns so i couldnt really open her up like some of the trails i use to ride.

I think my next upgrades are, 400ex rear shock, handle bar risers, wheel spacers. Then ill take care of the motor. I really cant begin to imagine the power a fully ported 240 bbk with the right carb and pipe would feel like. Must be an absolute handfull. This coming from a guy who raced 400whp cars on the street for years lo.

heres the only pic i took, after she got dirty. My brother in laws brand new 400ex, my nephew/godsons yamaha pewee and my blaster.

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agian thanks for the all the helpfull opinions guys.

stratton.
 
any particular website you guys get 400ex rear shocks from ?

im guessing ebay ? would just hate to end up with a blown rear shock.

stratton.
 
i guess ebay.

although i noticed that there is adjustment on my shocks.

im going to adjust them all the way out on the next outing, see if that gives more travel/softens them/soaks up more bumps. also ill run 8psi up front and 10psi out back.

also whats the concensous on extended wheel stud spacers. i see alot of guys use them, with good feed back. seems like a very cheap option to get the wheels out farther.

stratton.
 
i guess ebay.

although i noticed that there is adjustment on my shocks.

im going to adjust them all the way out on the next outing, see if that gives more travel/softens them/soaks up more bumps. also ill run 8psi up front and 10psi out back.

also whats the concensous on extended wheel stud spacers. i see alot of guys use them, with good feed back. seems like a very cheap option to get the wheels out farther.

stratton.

Soft or hard you won't get any more travel 8-|
 
I am 52 years old, and have a KTM motocross motor in my Blaster, but have done a lot of work with my son on his stock motored and liquid cooled Blaster engines. We are in the process of building a 4th Blaster with Big Bore Stroker engine. The liqud cooled DT200 engine was rated at 32hp stock and the 2003 KTM 250SX motor in mine is rated at nearly 50hp. We have found that we can well excede the 32hp of the DT200 engine with:
1) Modified head. 50% squish area, 0.040" (1mm) squish clearance, 20-23cc volume
This give a better burn and less chance of detonation all on regular fuel.
2) Remove the lid off the airbox or give it about a 1 sq inch opening. 1 extra hole will do.
This will over come the slight restriction here.
3) Raising the exaust port less than 0.040" (1mm) either by porting or basegaskets.
This raises the rpm operating band enough to up the hp. Too high kills low end.
4) Any aftermarket pipe will work better with these mods. Stock is a bit restrictive.

Unless you have extensive mods that significantly raise RPM or displacement, we found larger carbs actually reduced performance.
We tried timing advance, worked OK on a stock motor but wasn't needed with a modified head.
We found the stock intake needed material added, not removed.
Better reeds make the very slightest of improvement, not the first place to put your money unless you need to replace them.

Other advice?
Motorcross boots do not not work well with ATVs.
Fuel additives can and will interfere with the way your 2 stroke oil works.
I have the 400EX type shock (400LTZ actually) on mine and love it.
3 to 4 psi in the tires.
It cost me about $50 to replace all the cables and shoes on my front drum setup. Works MUCH better.
I am 5'11" and my son is 6'2", we both run 3" steering stem extentions. Cut and weld below the top bearing.
I was against it but I have to concede a 2"-4" swingarm extention makes sense over 30hp.
My son runs 1" spacers on the front with no problems, no steering kick problems.
He also runs a wider axle in the rear. Wider is better for flat tracking and pits.
I prefer the narrow stance and plant my weight on my feet, not my butt. Narrow is better for woods, mud and rocks.

Bigger is not always better in most things, but guys like to brag. Age has taught me balance.
That 450 is a fine machine, but comes with its own problems.
I moved from a 660 Raptor to the Blaster and could not be happier.
Even my MX powered Blaster is "too much" and I am moving to a stock engined Blaster.
These are a fne machine, lots of fun to be had in them!

Steve
 
I'm pretty certain you can buy bushings for the 450R from ken o connor and most shocks on e bay will range from 85-40 I ended up paying 45 for mine and it looked good and felt good when I installed it. Pretty much any year will do. you can buy extended steering stems as well between 1-4inch. for front suspenshion you can use banshee shocks with no additional parts they fit eye to eye if you got a buddy to help lift the front end to get them to line up.I put 8PSI in all 4 tires but it depends on how hard the terain you ride. a general rule well for me anyway is the harder the terain the harder the tire up to 10pounds and i never go lower than 6 if I can help it. food for thought
 
<SOME VERY GOOD STUFF SNIPPED>I put 8PSI in all 4 tires but it depends on how hard the terain you ride. a general rule well for me anyway is the harder the terain the harder the tire up to 10pounds and i never go lower than 6 if I can help it. food for thought

Hmmm, Sounds like way too much pressure to me.
You will wear the centers out of the tires, harsh ride and low traction.
Try running them between 3 and 6 PSI. You may need a low pressure tire gauge to get them balanced, or use the "knee method". I pretty much run the same pressure for everything. Look for a flat tire tread patch on the ground, same pressure at the center of the patch as the edges when my weight is on it. That gives enough pressure that rocks cannot contact the rim center, and maximum float on mud and sand, and maximum grip on all surfaces. If you run 8psi you are giving up over 30% of your traction and gaining a very harsh ride.

Front tires want just enough pressure to protect from sharp rocks making the tread contact the rim center and rears are looking for to run balanced weight from sides to center along the entire tread. With minimal pressure in the tires you can even run over nails and glass and not get a puncture. They will grip like crazy and tread wears even and long.

Steve
 
With minimal pressure in the tires you can even run over nails and glass and not get a puncture. They will grip like crazy and tread wears even and long.

Steve

Very true, you pump up tyres over the recommended pressure and sharp rocks will without a doubt puncure them.

6 ply tyres also are a canditate for sharp object damage if the pressure is higher than recommended.
 
yep I put 8 psi in it if it's going to be sitting in the garage for a month or two. When I'm at the track I'll usally lower them between 6-8psi depending if it rained the night before or not if the track is dry or damp to get optimum traction.I'm shure you guys know the game
 
For better results get them pressures down to a maximum of 4psi rear and 4.5 psi front.

Lots of suspension shock is also absorbed by the tyres, I never use any more than 3 psi in my rears and never more than 4 psi in the front.
 
thanks for the info guys.

ill deff be running 6-7psi on my next run out.

clearly explains the hella harsh ride with 25psi in them haha.

also thanks for the opinions on the extended wheel studs, nice cheap viable option.

also found a place that sells swing arm extensions, another nice cheap viable option.

got a few things to order and install in the near future.

stratton.
 
thanks for the info guys.

ill deff be running 6-7psi on my next run out.

clearly explains the hella harsh ride with 25psi in them haha.

also thanks for the opinions on the extended wheel studs, nice cheap viable option.

also found a place that sells swing arm extensions, another nice cheap viable option.

got a few things to order and install in the near future.

stratton.

Take advice from a silly old fart and get the pressures down to the recommended pressures, max 4 psi in the rear, max 5 psi up front, you will not be sorry.
 
Take advice from a silly old fart and get the pressures down to the recommended pressures, max 4 psi in the rear, max 5 psi up front, you will not be sorry.

fair enough bro ! will do.

the first time i dropped my psi in my 33inch km2's on my jeep to 8psi or so i was like :eek: gripped like a mother.

so i can totally agree, each psi makes a huge diff.

4psi in rear 5psi up front even for a 220 pound rider ?

stratton.
 
fair enough bro ! will do.

the first time i dropped my psi in my 33inch km2's on my jeep to 8psi or so i was like :eek: gripped like a mother.

so i can totally agree, each psi makes a huge diff.

4psi in rear 5psi up front even for a 220 pound rider ?

stratton.

Yup should be ok, if they bulge excessivly add 1/2 lb.
 
fair enough bro ! will do.

the first time i dropped my psi in my 33inch km2's on my jeep to 8psi or so i was like :eek: gripped like a mother.

so i can totally agree, each psi makes a huge diff.

4psi in rear 5psi up front even for a 220 pound rider ?

stratton.

Yup, here is 3-4psi in this picture with my 210 lbs on the machine:

564191_10150948638185803_51469386_n.jpg


Yup, the old army pants don't quite fit like they used to:

581759_10150948633645803_1609144321_n.jpg


It's all that good campfire food that does it:

546374_10150948633390803_379305037_n.jpg


I mean, how do you say no to this guy?

547852_10150948632115803_962753215_n.jpg


I am at LEAST 210 lbs, probably more, soaking wet:

251506_10150264951440803_8168824_n.jpg


And I wouldn't DREAM of having more than 5psi in my tires:

181352_10150948625965803_288494696_n.jpg


FLIR photgraphy has verified this (properly inflated / over inflated)
246751_10151236914710803_1486275478_n.jpg
423582_10151220473840803_971296905_n.jpg


But look, don't just blindly take my word for it. Get a low pressure guage and test it out for yourself at 8psi - 6psi - 4psi and 3psi.
See what works best for you.

Incidently, this was my "jeep" with low pressure tires and chains on in a couple feet of snow:

549234_10151500848875803_682442912_n.jpg


I know what you mean!

Steve