can your air idle screw adjustment on your carb affect the way your bike runs overall if it is not adjusted right???
Air screw
- Thread starter mitchellrj1988
- Start date
the air screw (the one on the side of the carb) will affect the pilot jetting and cause problems for you in the first 1/4 throttle if its out of adjustment. start by screwing it in until it gently seats, then back it out 1.5 turns and tune from there.
if the idle hangs, screw goes in
if it has a bog right off idle, then you need to go out
if the idle hangs, screw goes in
if it has a bog right off idle, then you need to go out
If you are "hitting a wall" then you are just running out of fuel. Perhaps "she's giving it all she's got, Captain!" or maybe there is still something wrong with your carb. Whatever the prob it is main metering related, not idle screw or needle.
This is 100% stock right? Do you have an airbox lid on it? Have you checked to see if the thumb throttle completely raises the slide? Is your filter clean? What kind of filter is it? Did you spray all the passages with carb cleaner and watch it come out somewhere? There is also the nozzle jet to clean, see the manual, pg 5-6. www.rydindirty.com/blastermanual.pdf
If none of the above helps, then it is entirely possible that the wall you are hitting is the limit of the stock jetting. A Uni filter, no lid, and a 250 or 260 main jet might do very nice things.
This is 100% stock right? Do you have an airbox lid on it? Have you checked to see if the thumb throttle completely raises the slide? Is your filter clean? What kind of filter is it? Did you spray all the passages with carb cleaner and watch it come out somewhere? There is also the nozzle jet to clean, see the manual, pg 5-6. www.rydindirty.com/blastermanual.pdf
If none of the above helps, then it is entirely possible that the wall you are hitting is the limit of the stock jetting. A Uni filter, no lid, and a 250 or 260 main jet might do very nice things.
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lol pretty sure it has a lot more left before it should hit that wall... yea its 100 percent stock running a lid. the filters a little dirty but it ran fine with it b4 plus i cleaned it really well since. havnt checkd the needle, ill do that when im home from work tonight.
I'm glad my trek reference wasn't totally lost....
Mitchell, what was the original problem? (I've lost track of your threads, but history is always good.)
Mitchell, what was the original problem? (I've lost track of your threads, but history is always good.)
If you are "hitting a wall" then you are just running out of fuel. Perhaps "she's giving it all she's got, Captain!" or maybe there is still something wrong with your carb. Whatever the prob it is main metering related, not idle screw or needle.
This is 100% stock right? Do you have an airbox lid on it? Have you checked to see if the thumb throttle completely raises the slide? Is your filter clean? What kind of filter is it? Did you spray all the passages with carb cleaner and watch it come out somewhere? There is also the nozzle jet to clean, see the manual, pg 5-6. www.rydindirty.com/blastermanual.pdf
If none of the above helps, then it is entirely possible that the wall you are hitting is the limit of the stock jetting. A Uni filter, no lid, and a 250 or 260 main jet might do very nice things.
lol pretty sure it has a lot more left before it should hit that wall... yea its 100 percent stock running a lid. the filters a little dirty but it ran fine with it b4 plus i cleaned it really well since. havnt checkd the needle, ill do that when im home from work tonight. the thing is it ran great before.....the float got stuck open so i figured id rebuild the carb while i have it apart im not trying to upgrade or make it faster just back to normal
This is 100% stock right? Do you have an airbox lid on it? Have you checked to see if the thumb throttle completely raises the slide? Is your filter clean? What kind of filter is it? Did you spray all the passages with carb cleaner and watch it come out somewhere? There is also the nozzle jet to clean, see the manual, pg 5-6. www.rydindirty.com/blastermanual.pdf
If none of the above helps, then it is entirely possible that the wall you are hitting is the limit of the stock jetting. A Uni filter, no lid, and a 250 or 260 main jet might do very nice things.
lol pretty sure it has a lot more left before it should hit that wall... yea its 100 percent stock running a lid. the filters a little dirty but it ran fine with it b4 plus i cleaned it really well since. havnt checkd the needle, ill do that when im home from work tonight. the thing is it ran great before.....the float got stuck open so i figured id rebuild the carb while i have it apart im not trying to upgrade or make it faster just back to normal
That's right, you said you adjusted the needle.
Did you recheck that adjustment? It is SOOOO critical to get this right. You must measure with the carb on it's side so that the float is just barely touching the needle. It is spring loaded and must not be depressed at all.
When you say rebuild, did you put in a new rebuild kit with a new float needle and seat assembly?
Did you recheck that adjustment? It is SOOOO critical to get this right. You must measure with the carb on it's side so that the float is just barely touching the needle. It is spring loaded and must not be depressed at all.
When you say rebuild, did you put in a new rebuild kit with a new float needle and seat assembly?
i adjusted the float to factory specs i think it was 21.5mm. all that was changed in my rebuild was all the jets(factory as before) and the gasket on the carb as well as the air screw
Sounds like its running out of fuel. Check actual fuel level with a piece of clear hose attatched to overflow. Search clear tube method on here somewhere. Level should be just above top of the bowl.
when i rebuilt the carb, i did adjust the float. so its possible that i adjusted it wrong and its shutting the fuel off when i reach a certain rpm?
Yes, at some point, the low fuel level just can't keep up with demand.
Back to the spring loaded float needle. It is really easy to do this incorrectly. Did you hold the carb on its side while adjusting? If you held it completely upside down (vertical, the most reasonable people would do it) I guarantee you it is now set incorrectly. The weight of the float is enough to compress the spring in the float needle, giving you an incorrect measurement. The float level must be set with the carb on its side so that the float just barely kisses the needle.
Like x1rcr said, the clear tube method of checking your fuel level works great. Do this with the carb still installed. Just connect a 1/8' dia piece of clear tubing (you might have one on it already) to the overflow outlet on the bottom of the bowl. Hold it up in a loop next to the float bowl and loosen the screw for the bowl drain, next to the overflow outlet. Fuel will flow out and the level in the tube will equalize with the level in the bowl. It should be about a 1/16th to 1/8th" ABOVE the float bowl gasket surface.
Back to the spring loaded float needle. It is really easy to do this incorrectly. Did you hold the carb on its side while adjusting? If you held it completely upside down (vertical, the most reasonable people would do it) I guarantee you it is now set incorrectly. The weight of the float is enough to compress the spring in the float needle, giving you an incorrect measurement. The float level must be set with the carb on its side so that the float just barely kisses the needle.
Like x1rcr said, the clear tube method of checking your fuel level works great. Do this with the carb still installed. Just connect a 1/8' dia piece of clear tubing (you might have one on it already) to the overflow outlet on the bottom of the bowl. Hold it up in a loop next to the float bowl and loosen the screw for the bowl drain, next to the overflow outlet. Fuel will flow out and the level in the tube will equalize with the level in the bowl. It should be about a 1/16th to 1/8th" ABOVE the float bowl gasket surface.
