I doubt it. never tried but i believe it doesnt. rather extend your stock one
A Guide to fitting a YFZ 450 complete front suspension to a Blaster
- Thread starter Blaner
- Start date
Read your write-up while back, just now adding my thoughts, I:I. Reason it works so well is that you kept the relationship of pivot points the same as YFZ, other than extra width of blaster frame. Once again props to you !!
If I ever run into a complete front end cheap enough I'll be down with this mod. Or maybe do it to my son's extra J-arm frame, hhmmmmm
. Why not both . Don't remember if I gave you reps for this. Any way to check?
If I ever run into a complete front end cheap enough I'll be down with this mod. Or maybe do it to my son's extra J-arm frame, hhmmmmm
. Why not both . Don't remember if I gave you reps for this. Any way to check?My question how did it coast cause u can put 450 on 3+1 a arms with no math and fabbin i mean if u bought everything for 200 that makes it worth it but if any where near 500 for then i would rather buy the a arms and a set of 450 shocks
The work u did was awsome and so was ur thread i give u total rep man i dont want to sound like wat u did was pointless awsome job also how much more travel did u get with the yfz a-arms
hey Larry, thanks man, na my rep thingy just shows the most recent ones ive recieved. Yes the whole idea was to keep the 450 geometry byt keeping everything in proportion. ive done a acouple of enduros with it since most recent was on last saturday and coupled with the 400ex at the back im finding i have no trouble keeping up with the big daddy's on the rough stuff, it is so much better than it was its unbelievable.
I do agree Blastercrazy that extended a arms would be much less effort but dont forget i dont live in the USA, so for me to get things like extended arms which are pretty pricey as it is for you guys would cost me 7 times as much due to exchange rates, plus shipping half way around the world, i could buy a whole YFZ locally for that price! It was the best option for me and worth every hour of work, but it may not be the best option for you.
as for extra travel, well i dont think ive ever measured that but i am yet to bottom it out, doubt i ever will.
I do agree Blastercrazy that extended a arms would be much less effort but dont forget i dont live in the USA, so for me to get things like extended arms which are pretty pricey as it is for you guys would cost me 7 times as much due to exchange rates, plus shipping half way around the world, i could buy a whole YFZ locally for that price! It was the best option for me and worth every hour of work, but it may not be the best option for you.
as for extra travel, well i dont think ive ever measured that but i am yet to bottom it out, doubt i ever will.
SOOOO clean looking! I'm banned from modifying suspension mounting points on my frame because I may run one or two GNCC races per year. Doubt they'd ever notice unless I actually won and somebody complained, but still.
I may borrow some of your info though! Nice work man! AND nice writeup! AND nice determination! There's nothing wrong with a good Blasty that can't be fixed!
I may borrow some of your info though! Nice work man! AND nice writeup! AND nice determination! There's nothing wrong with a good Blasty that can't be fixed!
well a quick update, its been a year simce the suspension job and all is well! welds holding out nicley, i have had no trouble with anything.
My nice paint job is taking some wear from the grass etc and will have to look at respraying them soon as well as getting some YFZ a-arm gaurds.
Today i did an enduro/funride and was tailing a 700 raptor along a single track in long grass when all of a sudden he hit a lurker and it sent him flying into the bushes, stopped to see if he was ok and he was so i carried on trying to catch up to my brother and about 300m later I also hit a lurker, a BIG one and the bike just soaked it up! i was worried i may have buckled a rim but all was well, i couldnt help thinking that if i had had my old stock Suspension, id have ended up like the raptor guy, probably with some serious whiplash as well.
still am impressed with the turn in capability, steering is sharp, light and concise. no understeer!
was just reminded that it was well worth the effort!
My nice paint job is taking some wear from the grass etc and will have to look at respraying them soon as well as getting some YFZ a-arm gaurds.
Today i did an enduro/funride and was tailing a 700 raptor along a single track in long grass when all of a sudden he hit a lurker and it sent him flying into the bushes, stopped to see if he was ok and he was so i carried on trying to catch up to my brother and about 300m later I also hit a lurker, a BIG one and the bike just soaked it up! i was worried i may have buckled a rim but all was well, i couldnt help thinking that if i had had my old stock Suspension, id have ended up like the raptor guy, probably with some serious whiplash as well.
still am impressed with the turn in capability, steering is sharp, light and concise. no understeer!
was just reminded that it was well worth the effort!
what are those blue estention things called in the one picture for the stock aarms and shocks? i think they said diamond on them or something. btw awesome writeup!
hey blaner, (or any1 that knows really) do u happen to know if there is a camber difference between raptor spindles vs banshee n warrior spindles? i know the balljoint degree angle is different but what about the angle of the wheels and tires after?
I believe they have different ball joint seating angles, im not sure of how much and in what direction, but i know for sure the banshee ones are different to the raptor ones, thats why i got rid of the banshee ones and went for rappy ones on my setup. banshee ones would have put too much stress on the balljoints.
This is crazy. How ever i am attempting it. I already have the three a-arm mounts cut out, the top two and the lower rear. I did a mock up but i was having crazy camber issues and knew castor was going to be of problem also. I scraped that idea.
I then found this. Its amazing. Im going to follow your steps. Do you happen to have a materials list? I see many different size brackets here?
I then found this. Its amazing. Im going to follow your steps. Do you happen to have a materials list? I see many different size brackets here?
Blaner hasn't been on in quite a while, have to make your own list. Hardest is getting a fractional closest to metric size.
Been wanting to do this, but funds can be sketchy. Missed a complete set by $3, sold for $68, tried to be too cheep
If the upper arm bolt is long enough, I'd suggest some shims between the upper arm and rear mount (moving it back) to allow for some castor adjustment. reason is yfz frame has 8* of frame rake and I don't think the blaster has as much.
Not flamin, but were you the one wanting to use a diamond J widening kit with YFZ arms?
Not only is the rake a little different, the distance between the upper and lower arm mounts on the blaster is greater than the yfz so the geometry is off. They can be made to work as this post shows, just follow the dimensions given and you should be fine. Or take some measurements from an actual yfz and apply those to the blaster.
Good day all! It has been a while, I got an alert in my mailbox and realised I havent been on here in ages, wit weddings, work and , well work, happening, I must say I havent given my bike the attention it needs Anyway, I took it for a burn the other day and realised what ive been missing out on!!
As for a materials list, I really dont remember off hand. Il have to look through the post to refresh my memory. Been about 3-4 years since I did this. No major issues except I snapped a a-arm from it being welded beforehand. I also need new ball joints, otherwise its still going strong.
Anyway, I took it for a burn the other day and realised what ive been missing out on!!As for a materials list, I really dont remember off hand. Il have to look through the post to refresh my memory. Been about 3-4 years since I did this. No major issues except I snapped a a-arm from it being welded beforehand. I also need new ball joints, otherwise its still going strong.
Im doing this and the top a-arm mounts that i made for the blaster are off there is only like a mm of space in between the shock and top a-arm. Is yours the same way blaner. I have access to a yfz and it is like 1/2 an inch gap in between shock and a-arm
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