98 blaster

[oldguy]

I am in NH so a lot of hill climbing and trails as well. Not to aggressive of a hill mind you, just steep not sand and fairly packed where I ride. My big bear goes up it no problem but its a very slow atv. I think I am going with a 3 inch extension and a wider Axel. 1 k is already spent so I got 1500-2 k left the less the better. I am finding its costing to much right now. My ebay stuff did not sell Like I thought it would so... go from there. And guy with the welder, I would never trust a weld I did ...

 

[oldguy]

I also might not sure yet, but might just fix it up as cheap as possible and sell it and fix up the scrambler. Debating...

 

[oldguy]

Too DKsIx Here are some pics so you can see the bent frame and rear Axel and swing arm. The frame a guy is going to straiten for me for 50-100 bucks, but I have not gotten to him yet, I was going down the other day, but got a storm, then we got snow and so on. I have to clean it first any how. You can see the bend in the frame from where it hit a tree. front bumper part of the frame was wasted, its in the trash.

 

[slickerthanyou]

Too DKsIx Here are some pics so you can see the bent frame and rear Axel and swing arm. The frame a guy is going to straiten for me for 50-100 bucks, but I have not gotten to him yet, I was going down the other day, but got a storm, then we got snow and so on. I have to clean it first any how. You can see the bend in the frame from where it hit a tree. front bumper part of the frame was wasted, its in the trash.

All the goodies you want to put on that blasty is awesome, But I think you would be better off buying a good used frame, or a 2-300 roller. no way to get that frame straight again with that common bending spot, I can tell ya how to cure that! Weld a nice piece 3/16 plate in there will never happen again. I gusseted my frame there also

.

Rockymountainatv.com is another good place to get parts!

 

[oldguy]

Ok I got a new frame its coming in the mail. A guy said he could fix that one at a body shop, but he has never seen it. So I am going on what you already know and I already kinda figured. The frame was wasted. OK here is a question, for you blaster freaks. I went with on the engine.

Wiseco .090 (68.25)mm Piston Kit

INNER CLUTCH BASKET BOSS

Tusk Clutch Kit With Heavy Duty Springs

Heavy-Duty connecting rod rebuild kit from VESRAH

have not got yet but want to know if this is ok for the engine I built.

FMF Powercore 2 Silencer have not bought yet
FMF Fatty Pipe have not bought yet

For frame so far.

Frame

+3 up 1 in PRO X RACING A-ARMS by American Star

Tusk Adjustable Width Racing Axle Adjustablity Blaster - 4 5/8" to 6 5/8"

Have not got yet

Wire harness new
frame bolt kit plastic and plastic bolt kit
new aftermarket carb with no electronics
and bits and bobs Oh and rear swingarm, debating on that one still.

Anyone see anything that will have a conflict or any problems so far? thanks for the help.

 

[StevieN]

Ok I got a new frame its coming in the mail. A guy said he could fix that one at a body shop, but he has never seen it. So I am going on what you already know and I already kinda figured. The frame was wasted. OK here is a question, for you blaster freaks. I went with on the engine.

Wiseco .090 (68.25)mm Piston Kit

INNER CLUTCH BASKET BOSS

Tusk Clutch Kit With Heavy Duty Springs

Heavy-Duty connecting rod rebuild kit from VESRAH

have not got yet but want to know if this is ok for the engine I built.

FMF Powercore 2 Silencer have not bought yet
FMF Fatty Pipe have not bought yet

For frame so far.

Frame

+3 up 1 in PRO X RACING A-ARMS by American Star

Tusk Adjustable Width Racing Axle Adjustablity Blaster - 4 5/8" to 6 5/8"

Have not got yet

Wire harness new
frame bolt kit plastic and plastic bolt kit
new aftermarket carb with no electronics
and bits and bobs Oh and rear swingarm, debating on that one still.

Anyone see anything that will have a conflict or any problems so far? thanks for the help.

As for the A-arms and tusk axle i have just fitted both of them to my new build, great products, i have step by step instructions on how to fit the axle if you look through my build pages ;-) good luck

StevieN

 

[best]

Ok I got a new frame its coming in the mail. A guy said he could fix that one at a body shop, but he has never seen it. So I am going on what you already know and I already kinda figured. The frame was wasted. OK here is a question, for you blaster freaks. I went with on the engine.

Wiseco .090 (68.25)mm Piston Kit

INNER CLUTCH BASKET BOSS

It is usually the outer clutch basket that wears notches and needs replacement, the inner wears better.
If it ain't broke, no need to fix it.

Tusk Clutch Kit With Heavy Duty Springs

Heavy-Duty connecting rod rebuild kit from VESRAH

have not got yet but want to know if this is ok for the engine I built.

Usually cheaper to buy a complete crank on the Blaster rather have it rebuilt.
Wiseco and Vitos cranks seem to hold up as good as stock and better than many rebuilds (some shops do poor work).
There are 3mm stroker cranks that are pretty much a drop in replacement, and stuffer cranks that improve mid-range torque.

FMF Powercore 2 Silencer have not bought yet
FMF Fatty Pipe have not bought yet

Some dispute but both are good performers and better than stock in my opinion.
Some have the opinion there are better pipes, read up on this and learn to sort opinion from true experience.

For frame so far.

Frame

+3 up 1 in PRO X RACING A-ARMS by American Star

Tusk Adjustable Width Racing Axle Adjustablity Blaster - 4 5/8" to 6 5/8"

Have not got yet

Sheesh, I thought you were on a budget? I wish I had that budget!

Wire harness new
frame bolt kit plastic and plastic bolt kit
new aftermarket carb with no electronics
and bits and bobs Oh and rear swingarm, debating on that one still.

Anyone see anything that will have a conflict or any problems so far? thanks for the help.

Stock carb with TORS eliminator kit works fine up until over 38hp and you are not there yet.
Stock carb is best choice. Proven and we can give you jetting info.
If you have to ask, you are not a jetting expert and don't need to waste time and money experimenting with carbs.
Stick with the stock carb for now and learn from it.

Steve

 

[oldguy]

good info and thanks. will just rebuild my old carb, I had to replace the clutch basket as the engine had sat in the rain, when I opened up the case water came poring out. The other I am not sure on yet, if its good or not, might just buy one. I am on a budget. Might have to stop here till spring. But its being built for the spring anyhow.

 

[best]

good info and thanks. will just rebuild my old carb, I had to replace the clutch basket as the engine had sat in the rain, when I opened up the case water came poring out. The other I am not sure on yet, if its good or not, might just buy one. I am on a budget. Might have to stop here till spring. But its being built for the spring anyhow.

Just buy the essentials, forget the bling stuff.
Put together a solid gearbox, crank and crankcase, everything else can be swapped or put on later.
Frame and crankcase are the backbone, everything else is easily interchangeable on these beautiful little bikes.

If it sits around until spring, you may never get it finished.
You have a frame coming, build an engine. Start with a crank. Less than $200.
Replace what parts you have to, and NO MODS until after you get it running.

Why no mods? Because you will not know why or what is causing it to run like sh*te!
Put it together as stock as possible, with perhaps some exceptions like:
- If you need a pipe, buy the one you'd like, but if the stock one is good, use it!
- If you need a crank, buy a stuffed crank or a 3mm stroker (no more!) for very little more.
- Replace only the parts you need, and remember not all aftermarket parts are upgrades.

If you put the bike together as stock as possible:
1) It will be cheapest,
2) it will be the fastest way to get it running
3) you are assured the greatest chance of success in getting it to run reliably
4) you will get more and more reliable advice on any problems you have
5) you will be able to tell if any future mods actually work by comparing them to stock.

Don't stop, don't wait until Spring. Put it together.
Don't worry about loose bushings, worn parts, painting, or making it perfect,
because every little job on these bikes is only and hour or 2 here or there.
The entire Blaster can be disassembled and reassembled in a day. Seriously. Fear not.
So get her done, get her going.

Build a good crankcase, put it in a good frame and start bolting the parts on.
If it is bent or worn, put it on for now and order a new one.
Not much except sloppy pistons and dirt in the crank bearing will ruin your day.
Get'er done!

Steve

 

[oldguy]

I hear you bro, but some part wont be ready for some time. Plus the left a-arm is bent and bent bad, front bumper was crushed, frame was bent. muffler is also broke, and the stock silencer or pipe thing is split at the connection where the pipe goes in. Front left tire and rim is bent and tire is torn. The atv hit a tree at about 50. so not much was good on it. Its not that i dont want to put it together now bro. Its just not many parts are ready and cant put them on anyhow till the engine is done, not sure if it needs a crank or not. But we are putting it together tomorrow the engine, and I will know then. I also need plastic lol the plastic on this one all but hood was cracked and twisted.

 

[Firstblaster101]

Hey dude do you need any stock parts ? I got a bunch for the front end .. Pm me if you need Anything and we will figure out a price

 

[Braaaptor]

I have some updates for y'all!

I made arrangements with oldguy to fix his wiring harness for this build. Here is how it looked when I took it out of the envelope...one BIG mess!

After some work, clean-up, and repairing/replacing some nasty connections like these...

And this....

....Here's the end result! We decided to build a "racing" harness for this Blaster. No TORS, factory kill switch, light wiring, or oil injection lamp wiring. Just the basics to allow the engine to run and shut off with an aftermarket kill switch.

Good luck with your build, dude! Here's another step in the right direction. I built the harness with all the factory-correct color-colored wiring (except for the main ground wire that attaches to the coil. It is green instead of black because there wasn't enough good black ground wire left in the harness to re-use. No big deal).