Another backyarder secret let out of the bag.
lol...
Yeah and the scary thing is there are a few guys out there still doing it
91 blaster
- Thread starter KP_Goody
- Start date
lol...
Yeah and the scary thing is there are a few guys out there still doing it
So i finally pushed the crank through with a home-made puller/pusher of sorts. I found out that the stator bolt no longer fits on the crank? I don't know how to fix this. i ran a tap through the bolt and it still doesnt want go to on. The threads on the crank look fine? Also the crank bearings on both sides dont have any wiggle but they dont spin very easily, do i need to replace bearings? Lastly the rod has about 1-2 mm play from left to right, is this acceptable?
Have to get your terminoligy correct in order to receive correct help.
Are you talking the nut that holds the flywheel? You sure you have the correct nut?
Did the bearings turn freely before? If so you might have done something wrong in assembly. Did you have right side brg out of case? Left side off crank? Using different case half? Crank? You sure crank is pulled fully into left case brg?
As to rod you'll have to check manual for specifications.
Are you talking the nut that holds the flywheel? You sure you have the correct nut?
Did the bearings turn freely before? If so you might have done something wrong in assembly. Did you have right side brg out of case? Left side off crank? Using different case half? Crank? You sure crank is pulled fully into left case brg?
As to rod you'll have to check manual for specifications.
Side to side play at crank 0.7mm.
Small end free play at tip 1mm, but I have seen up to 3mm without any noticable up and down play on the big end.
Small end free play at tip 1mm, but I have seen up to 3mm without any noticable up and down play on the big end.
Got the motor back together. The weld i had put on was on the outside of the slot where the clutch actuator arm sits. Unfortunately some weld puddled into this slot. This made getting the clutch actuator arm in very difficult. I grinded enough out that the arm would fit. Now my problem is that the clutch arm doesnt want to return. I have added a spring and it seems to do very little.
With the clutch side cover off, how much should the inner clutch basket move when the clutch is engaged?
With the clutch side cover off, how much should the inner clutch basket move when the clutch is engaged?
I assume you mean that the clutch lever is pulled in when you say engaged
There isn't much movement in the clutch, probably only a few mm but all the clutch plates should disengage. The inner basket however shouldn't move, just the pressure plate under the springs. If you are having any probs then go to ken o'connors you tube channel and check out his recent assembly vids, they will help you adjust your clutch correctly.
Part one of the assembly is below, there are 5 parts in total
There isn't much movement in the clutch, probably only a few mm but all the clutch plates should disengage. The inner basket however shouldn't move, just the pressure plate under the springs. If you are having any probs then go to ken o'connors you tube channel and check out his recent assembly vids, they will help you adjust your clutch correctly.
Part one of the assembly is below, there are 5 parts in total
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I got the motor together, it shifts fine. The clutch actuator arm doesnt seat correctly. Nor does it want to return very easily. But it does move and it does "push out" the pressure plate/innerclutch basket about 1mm. Is this sufficient as long as i am able to get the arm to return on its own?
it may be sufficient, as long as the plates are loose so they can slide over each other, then is should be ok.
