2005 blaster tors??

[Nickmazz]

Starts right up first kick. Runs only 3/4 more throttle. Has no top end VERY BOGGY. Soon as i leave 3/4 throttle it dies. WHAT IS IT?????

 

[usetheBFH]

Compression/Vacuum ? You can try to just unplug the tors to make sure that that is not the problem. If the problem persists you need to do a compression test and a leak down.

 

[Nickmazz]

120psi compression. How do i disconnect the tors. SMokes A LOT WHEN FULL THROTTLE

 

[Blaaster]

Blocked main jet.

Fuel supply restricted.

Wrong size main jet.

Float level wrong.

 

[usetheBFH]

Disconnect the Tors: http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-remove-your-tors-655/

Sounds like it could be a crank bearing seal. You need to do a leakdown.

 

[Wifesblaster]

Disconnect the Tors: http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-remove-your-tors-655/

Sounds like it could be a crank bearing seal. You need to do a leakdown.

Disconnecting TORS on pre 03 models is different then disconnecting it on 03+ models. This is the link to disconnect TORS on your bike.

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/03-06-tors-removal-diy-41973/

 

[Nickmazz]

Crank bearing>>.....

 

[Wifesblaster]

Crank bearing was the problem? You mean crank seal?

 

[usetheBFH]

I said sounds like it could be the crank bearing seal, sorry if i confused you. I've seen when they smoke a lot at higher RPM like that and have a miss/bogg problem it can be caused by a bad crank seal letting engine oil into the combustion chamber.

 

[Blaaster]

A leak test will confirm a leaky crank seal.

Bubbles will appear if the tranny breather is immersed in a container of fluid.

 

[Wifesblaster]

Crank bearing>>.....

I should have qouted this in my last post. I didn't understand what this meant.

 

[Blaaster]

If that smoke is white and smells like a Japanese soldiers jock strap, the crank seals are shot.

 

[Nickmazz]

I Drained all the gas out. My mix was real dark. Got it to rev up good now cleared it all out. STILL WONT IDLE. Turned the air screw nothing. Runs great when giving gas soon as i let go dies wrr wrr die. Like it loses spark.

 

[Wifesblaster]

You need to be mixing fuel at 32:1 if the injection is removed. The air screw and idle screw are two different things. You need to put your air screw a 1.5 turns out from a lightly seated position. If you have the tors on top of the carb the idle screw is on that. Remove the seat and locate top of carb. You will see a big flathead screw. This is your idle adjustment. If the tors has been removed the idle screw will be on the side of the carb. If your oil injection is removed you need to make sure the nipple on the carb was blocked off.

 

[Nickmazz]

O yea ik 32:1 the tors is still on (sadly smoke is blue. dO u think the idle on the tors can prevent it to die so easily soon as I let off

 

[Herpderplol]

Yes, if you dont have it high enough, it wont run...

I like my idle so low i cant even start it without the choke....

If you have the choke pulled, does it run a couple seconds longer??

 

[Nickmazz]

NOW IT IDLES RELE HIGH. I richened the tors screw and the air screw nothing its revin at 3/4 throttle (scary).

 

[Herpderplol]

Then turn down the TORs idle screw...
You should ONLY turn that a quarter turn at a time, no more. Wait 10 seconds to see the change in idle, then turn a little more.

You probably turned it a few times... which is a very BAD idea

 

[Nickmazz]

Which way do i turn it. What are the base setting on the air screw and tors.

 

[Herpderplol]

Turn the air screw all the way in (not tight) and back it out 1.5 turns

The tors "base" would be idle, so if you have a really high idle now, turn it a quarter to the left and see what happens

Have you leak tested the engine?