2000 Blaster will NOT rev up?

[MX-Rider]

Hello Folks,

Thank you very much in advance for the help!!!

Main Issue / Question
About 2 years ago i bought a 2000 blaster that was mint, but would NOT rev up, or rather, if you reved it up, it shock the handle bars and machine badly and would only rev so far, and sure enough, someone said call Ken OConner and sure enough, the straighkey (woodruf straight key) was split/broken, swapped that, and BAM, machine ran great, perfect!!! Thanks you all and KEn!!!

BUttttttttttt, we have not ridden it for 3 months, and pulled it out, and it starts fine, idles and putts around fine, but get this, the stupid thing will NOT rev up very far , it will go, but will NOT rev out and up so that i can rip up the field, it is like something is stopping it from reving past a medium rev, weird ??

And this time, i do NOT have the violent shake i had before, so i am thinking not the straight key off the crankshaft to the weight balancer gear like last time?

Now, someone said maybe a TORS / throttle limiting issue or a parking brake issue, which is new to me and makes no sense, even though i have worked on my own MX bikes for 30 years?

or someone said Reeds, but would that totally stop it from revving up?


Thanks a million in advance for the help to get this little beast back running normal!!!


#2 Second minor Question?
The dealer who flips machines in Lebanon PA was NOT sure if it had a Big Bore kit, how do i tell (it seems to have a lot of thump and powerful for a 200cc blaster, but not real sure?)

Machine Details
2000 Blaster
Gold Series FMF Fatty pipe
Holeshot ITP rear tires
Aluminum rear rims - DWT Gloss shinny rear rims
Nice Red, White & Black scheme!
ProTaper handlebar pad & handle guards
New OEM Decals
New / re-upholstered seat in orig black & red

 

[MX-Rider]

#3 Third issue i would like to fix on this mahine
The former owner put all the upgrades on this, but they screwed up the mounting of the Gold Series FMF Fatty pipe to the cyl head, so the stupid thing has most of the noise coming out the front of the connection, a total sloppy fit, so what do i purchase to get this sealed up and perfect?

 

[dirtysquared]

The tors unit was designed to override the throttle in the event it stuck wide open. Sadly, it really doesn't work well, and will malfunction and will cut cut spark, almost like a rev limiter.

The emergency brake acts similar. In the event the parking brake was left on, it will limit revs.

Easy way to delete both of them on your 2000 model is to unplug them. Unplug the wiring harness from the tors brain under the hood. The e-brake, follow the2 wires down from the clutch perch, and disconnect them at the first harness connection.

The best way I know to figure out if you have a big bore kit would be to measure the cylinder bore. Not really worth all that trouble if it's running well. You possibly have a ported cylinder, or just a really well tuned stock blaster.

The FMF pipe should have a flange that mounts to the cylinder, and a spring that tensions the pipe inside the flange. I'm pretty sure a high temp o-ring goes inside there to seal it. There should be a crush gasket between the flange and cylinder also.

 

[dirtysquared]

One more thing I just though of.......try and get a video of it doing that. Pics and video help alot when we're trying help you.

 

[MX-Rider]

The tors unit was designed to override the throttle in the noevent it stuck wide open. Sadly, it really doesn't work well, and will malfunction and will cut cut spark, almost like a rev limiter.

The emergency brake acts similar. In the event the parking brake was left on, it will limit revs.

Easy way to delete both of them on your 2000 model is to unplug them. Unplug the wiring harness from the tors brain under the hood. The e-brake, follow the2 wires down from the clutch perch, and disconnect them at the first harness connection.

The best way I know to figure out if you have a big bore kit would be to measure the cylinder bore. Not really worth all that trouble if it's running well. You possibly have a ported cylinder, or just a really well tuned stock blaster.

The FMF pipe should have a flange that mounts to the cylinder, and a spring that tensions the pipe inside the flange. I'm pretty sure a high temp o-ring goes inside there to seal it. There should be a crush gasket between the flange and cylinder also.

Thanks a million, I will try to figure out the wires and test each one to see which one is potentially acting up...

Regarding the FMF pipe connection to the cylinder head, the former owner just slid the FMF pipe over the existing flange it looks like..., because there are no springs pulling it tight, Nor a crush Washer... just a loose sloppy fitting...

hmmmm, so I assume there is an "official/correct" FMF OEM flange I could purchase to bolt to the cylinder head?

although I'm going to have to get down there real close to take a look at the cylinder head, because I don't recall seeing any bolt holes in the cylinder head to bolt to, do you know if there is bolt holes for that?

 

[MX-Rider]

Is FMF Factory technical support good?

Maybe I could call FMF and they could talk me through what is needed for the exact pipe on my exact machine???

Unless this specific pipe kit has no flange and spring setup for this exact pipe to this exact machine????

Do you guys/gals know by chance?

not not to mention, or I failed to mention the former owner has a hardware store type thin u bolt clamp holding the pipe to the frame to sort of compensate for no springs pulling it tight to the cylinder head.... a boneheaded move, Doh.

 

[MX-Rider]

?

 

[dirtysquared]

I've never dealt with FMF directly. Give them a call, what's the worst that can happen??