110octane I have a Question.



Hey all. Ive been dying to know what 110octane has done to his motor. I see all the mods on his sig but what has he actually done to his motor. Id like to know what things you have done and would do different if you could do it over. What was your best mod for your buck? Does your 240 actually need the +4 swingarm? You have a very nice ride 110 id like to see some close up pics too.

When you ask, "what have you actually done to your motor" what do you mean? I have my mods listed as you can see and already pointed out yourself. I havent done anything top seacret. All of my mods are just performance parts bought off the shelf and put on the blaster.
My blaster story.

the quick version.

I bought a stock blaster that sized up on me in less than 1 hr of riding it the 1st time. After a horror story from trying to get the dealership I bought it from to fix it, I decided to do it myself. Then I ran into a 240 motor, pipe and silencer, carb package on ebay and bought it. This 240 topend was actually shot (so I kind of ripped) but with all the other parts it came with I still got a bit of a deal. Then to replace that 240 I purchased a CT sonic 240 kit.

I started replacing all of the stock parts slowly. I was even able to pick up a nut and bolt set from this guy who bought a new blaster and tore it all down to part out. so all new nuts and bolts on my 2000 blaster I:I. '

Everything on my blaster is either new/aftermarket/polished/powdercoated/chromed.
to go through the entire blaster, I would have to say the only thing I have left stock is my headlight and rear fender bracket.

Things I might have done differently.
#1 bought a banshee -- for the $$ Ive spent on my blaster I could have gotten a killer banshee. But I did have fun building it.
#2 stroked/long rod -- I might have had this done.
#3 LRD pipe or CT -- instead of the Paul Turner Im running (even though Im told the Paul Turner is very close to the LRD,CT. I still would like to try)
#4 done my research before I powder coated -- DMV made me scrape off the powder coat where the VIN # is so they could read it more easy (it was readable though) plus I had to grind off the rear break cable bracket for the hydro setup.
#5 maybe gotten a +3 swingarm instead of a +4. -- 4 is nice, it keeps my front end on the ground very good, sometimes too good. Id like to be able to wheelie easier.

I will try and post some pics in the next day or so.
i think he means all the mods yo haven't put in your sig " the list goes on and on" lol

Ok, Ill start from the top. (might rename things in my sig. sorry)

Red Renthal handle bars
Motion pro clutch and break cables

Billet aluminum
- handle bar clamp
- key holder
- throttle cover
- stator cover
- pro design power shifter
- frame protoctors
- tie rods
- grab bar
- twin row rear bearing carrier

- trenga racing steering stem
- front and rear wheel hubs
- oil injection cover
- head light bracket
- rear break rotor hub
- durablue rear axl
- Dg krome lite front bumper
- Paul turner hi rev. pipe
- kick starter

- 35 mm carb
- clutch cover
- wheel lug nuts
- break leaver and clutch lever
- Paul turner Fat boyII silencer
- roll design foot pegs
- thumb throttle housing

Nikle plated
- sprocket holder
- rear break pedal

Aftermarket parts
CT240 port and polished cyl.
Cr250 reeds/reed cage
hot rods crank/rod
hinson clutch basket/ carbon plates
+2+1 burgaurd a-arms
+4 swing arm
Works performance with Rezzies front shocks
Works performance with rezzie rear shock
Shock wears
CFM aluminum airbox
K&N air filter
Maier Platics all around
Hydro rear breaks with s.s. break lines
Versahra rear break rotor
sun star sprockets
Powder coated candy read frane
Powder coated silver - swing arm and a-arms
scott grips
Misc. bolts have been replaced with ss allen head. the rest of the bolts are new off of a parted out blaster.
Things in the short future.

- nology hot wires and profire coil
- ricky stator high output and adjustable stator
- lightend flywheel
- custom painted plastics
WOW 110 I bet you have spent a lot of time on her. Thanks for all that info. Do you use it just for dunes?
Do you think that your 240 kit would be reliable for a play bike. Or should I stick with over bore and a stroker. I know my YZ125 is stroked and it is a fast and smooth runner.
DirtyBlaster I could not help but read you have a .080 240 kit a stroker crank with a longer rod. You have a 1 inch spacer to keep that piston in the cylinder??? HEHEHE. Maybe a custom made piston too. Plus a shaved head and cases. Whats that equal about a 262cc. LOL
Do you think that your 240 kit would be reliable for a play bike. Or should I stick with over bore and a stroker. I know my YZ125 is stroked and it is a fast and smooth runner.

IMO built right either set up can be reliable.

With a stroker you will have to dissaseble and split your cases. The 240 kit obviously you will only have to tear down the top end. You know Ive never really heard any reliability issues with either long rod, storker, 240's on a blaster PER SAY. I think it all comes down to quality mechanics. And you know what in our sport, it should be expected that were going to be rebuilding/replacing things at regular intervals.
The main reason I am asking about reliablility is because I am used to water cooled 2-strokes. I was just a little worried about pumping up an air cooled 2-stroke.