Won't rev

Prime

New Member
Jul 11, 2011
1,056
15
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Batavia, NY
Title says it, the blaster idles fine...but in first, second, and third it wont go past 4000/5000rpm. Once I get into 4th, 5th, and 6th it is not as bad, but doesn't run correctly. I was getting a lot more power with my .030 over engine w/ stock pipe and stock reeds...

I looked around on the internet to see if other people have had this problem...I have seen that there was something in the pipe or silencer(not my case). I also saw TORS being a problem(when is it not) and mine is unhooked. I also saw that someone said their CDI was ruined after washing it....my avatar picture is of my blaster still wet after I washed it today. Could this be the problem?
 
do a leak down test and a comp test for starters, if thats all good, turn to jetting, seems like your mid range is out, ie the needle clip position. we need more info, ie have you recently opened the carb?, have you ever rejetted? was it running right before and you changed nothing?
 
do a leak down test and a comp test for starters, if thats all good, turn to jetting, seems like your mid range is out, ie the needle clip position. we need more info, ie have you recently opened the carb?, have you ever rejetted? was it running right before and you changed nothing?



This compression test took 3 kicks to get it here, 110 lbs. Sooo it looks to me that I need to do a top end rebuild. :( Also there were no leaks, I checked that yesterday. And I have opened the carb recently, I cleaned it yesterday. I am running a 240 main with 32.5 pilot. My elevation is 1460 above sea level.
 
I also forgot to mention that the first kick brought it to 60lbs. Second got it to 90, third got it to 110.
 
Proper way is thread in tester with fitting same length as plug. Fuel off, throttle wide open, kick until gauge stops moving (10-15 kicks) A short adapter will be about 5lbs low. A warm engine will read little higher than cold.
 
Proper way is thread in tester with fitting same length as plug. Fuel off, throttle wide open, kick until gauge stops moving (10-15 kicks) A short adapter will be about 5lbs low. A warm engine will read little higher than cold.

Oh, looks like I have another comp test to do. Haha thanks!
 
Yeah, If you were getting 110 with just a couple kicks you're more than likely good to go on compression.

Yup, I am. I did two tests, first one I got 135 lbs, second test I got 140 lbs. So should I go back to stock exhaust w/ 230 main jet? And I saw something about the needle clip position. I have no idea how to check this or change it.
 
Needle is changed by pulling cable out of slide, down in bottom is 2 small phillips screws, clip should be in middle. I'm thinking you're rich. If you can take it for a spin, when you get to point it acts up, pull choke to first notch, if it gets worse you're rich, if better lean. What does plug look like? Air box lid?

My set-up: good home port, vito's duel reeds,Fat Bastard pipe, +4 time, stock carb 320 m, 30 pilot, Vitos needle 3rd clip, 1 1/2 air screw, no lid, about 1000 ft.

My bad I saw 240 main thinking 340, Think you're WAY lean
 
Needle is changed by pulling cable out of slide, down in bottom is 2 small phillips screws, clip should be in middle. I'm thinking you're rich. If you can take it for a spin, when you get to point it acts up, pull choke to first notch, if it gets worse you're rich, if better lean. What does plug look like? Air box lid?

My set-up: good home port, vito's duel reeds,Fat Bastard pipe, +4 time, stock carb 320 m, 30 pilot, Vitos needle 3rd clip, 1 1/2 air screw, no lid, about 1000 ft.

I will take it for a spin later, because I don't feel like getting rained on lol:p. The plugs come out black and a little wet, because I did a little carb tuning last night and I just wanted to be safe. I have my airbox lid on, only because when I bought it, it had no airbox lid and I thought nothing of it. So I rode it hard for about an hour-hour and a half and melted the cast piston that was in it. So, I keep the airbox lid on now.