Who's good at porting blasters?
- Thread starter New to 4S- Joe
- Start date
Grizzly flex shaft is about the same price and is a much better choice. It is basically a CC Specialty piece with different bearings and a different outer cover on the straight piece. The Grizzly even takes CC Specialty bearings. If you go this route, you effectively have a different looking CC piece for about 1/4 the price. I got mine for under $75 shipped and it has held up for a while with the stock bearings.
A pencil grinder is nice, but they don't offer the control that a Grizzly or CC setup will. That adjustable foot control seems stupid until you try it, at which point it becomes a must. It also means that you can apply more pressure and cut less, which means more control and less pitting and ridging. It is very easy to take a dremel to a cylinder and cut, but you'll screw the corners up very easily if you run up an adjacent wall. Turning the speed down without having to back out of the cylinder means that you can cut precisely and much faster.
The worse part about a static speed setup is that the carbide can grab into the aluminum and walk to a wall, dig in and walk to the next wall, walk and dig into the next wall, etc. When this happens, it will happen very fast. I'd say that a lot of cases, you'll spin around a port 9-10 times before you can stop it. Even if you do manage to pull out of the port in that second or so that it flies all over the place, you are often caught off guard and it startles you, so you jerk out and fly across the cylinder with the carbide = new bore required. At this point, you've spent $80 for a grinder and bits and now have to spend another $175 for a bore and new piston. At that price, you could have had a Grizzly piece and a rechambered head, as well as a port map from a reputable builder to do the porting properly.
Everyone with a foot control setup will vouch for what I'm saying.
A pencil grinder is nice, but they don't offer the control that a Grizzly or CC setup will. That adjustable foot control seems stupid until you try it, at which point it becomes a must. It also means that you can apply more pressure and cut less, which means more control and less pitting and ridging. It is very easy to take a dremel to a cylinder and cut, but you'll screw the corners up very easily if you run up an adjacent wall. Turning the speed down without having to back out of the cylinder means that you can cut precisely and much faster.
The worse part about a static speed setup is that the carbide can grab into the aluminum and walk to a wall, dig in and walk to the next wall, walk and dig into the next wall, etc. When this happens, it will happen very fast. I'd say that a lot of cases, you'll spin around a port 9-10 times before you can stop it. Even if you do manage to pull out of the port in that second or so that it flies all over the place, you are often caught off guard and it startles you, so you jerk out and fly across the cylinder with the carbide = new bore required. At this point, you've spent $80 for a grinder and bits and now have to spend another $175 for a bore and new piston. At that price, you could have had a Grizzly piece and a rechambered head, as well as a port map from a reputable builder to do the porting properly.
Everyone with a foot control setup will vouch for what I'm saying.
