When putting the cases together?

yamaha28

Member
Apr 8, 2011
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I have the crank pressed onto the clutch side case along with all the transmission and balancer gear. When I try to put the flywheel side case on over it, it goes on nicely until it gets to a certain point, then it is impossible to push down, if I manage to push it down just a little bit. It will not come back apart with out a case splitter. The crank is tapered right? Why don't my cases just slid right together like other peoples? Why is this crank giving me trouble?
 
Try wiggling the balancer or the output shaft. They give me issues somtimes.
 
Try wiggling the balancer or the output shaft. They give me issues somtimes.

I checked them, they slid through fine by themselves, I spin them as I try to push it down and they spin freely so it's the crank that is causing me the problems.
 
it because of the bearings but all you have to do is put all screws in place tighten if you could dont matter just try... and get a peice of flat wood and a hammer and start knocking against the wood on the case where the flywheel supposed to be and not on the thred of the crankshaft...

Tip: i just had finished putting my cases back together today... after a hard time
 
if i'm not mistaken, you use the tusk crank puller to pull the crank into the stator side first, then the clutch side goes on last ????
 
One more time, DO NOT USE A HAMMER EVER!

Yep,I tired a couple light taps with a rubber hammer to position it, no go there. I have split the case about 4-5 time by now, just because it gets stuck on that crank while I am trying to push it down
 
Yep,I tired a couple light taps with a rubber hammer to position it, no go there. I have split the case about 4-5 time by now, just because it gets stuck on that crank while I am trying to push it down

That's what a install/puller is for brutha! Or in my case Ken Oconner! I:I
 
Awk's right yamaha28. I used the tusk crank puller to yank the crankshaft into the left side case first and then assemble the transmission into the left side case half and then basically drop the right side case half down onto the left per the factory service manual.

You've done this 4-5 times and haven't stopped to read the manual a single time, have you?
 
Awk's right yamaha28. I used the tusk crank puller to yank the crankshaft into the left side case first and then assemble the transmission into the left side case half and then basically drop the right side case half down onto the left per the factory service manual.

You've done this 4-5 times and haven't stopped to read the manual a single time, have you?

Ohhhh that's my problem then! I will give that a go and see what happens.

Guilty as charged :-[ I should have looked right away, yea that was pretty stupid of me. Now I know though! (mental note, refer to manual more often, especially before posting a question on here and looking like an idiot....check!)

Thanks civic! maybe, just maybe that will solve my stiff crank issues, only in the blaster though :p
 
I have a clymer's sitting on the shelf right above the work bench. I can tell you the head size, thread pitch, and torque spec on pretty much every nut and bolt on a blaster from memory and STILL go and refer to the manual on a regular basis. It's a helpful piece of literature.

Try pulling the crank into the left side case using the crank puller (install the 2 M8 studs into the holes provided) making SURE that the rod is hanging out of the cylinder hole (it will damage the crankshaft if it's not, don't ask me how I know!) while you're pulling it in. Once the crank is in and fully seated, you SHOULD be able to slide the right side case half on without any trouble and check to make sure that the crank is rolling over easily. Once you know the crank is going to roll over easily, you can yank the right side back off and assemble the transmission into the left side case. Apply your sealant to the right side case and slide it over. Once the right side case is down onto the locator dowels, you can sit the bottom end up straight on the bench and install and tighten case screws.

As SOON as the screws are all tightened, spin the transmission input shaft (the one the clutch goes on) and click through all of the gears. This is something the book doesn't cover but is a REAL time saver in case something is wrong in there. You can find it out now while it's easy to pull back apart versus once you've got the engine in the quad and it won't go anywhere!
 
I have a clymer's sitting on the shelf right above the work bench. I can tell you the head size, thread pitch, and torque spec on pretty much every nut and bolt on a blaster from memory and STILL go and refer to the manual on a regular basis. It's a helpful piece of literature.

Try pulling the crank into the left side case using the crank puller (install the 2 M8 studs into the holes provided) making SURE that the rod is hanging out of the cylinder hole (it will damage the crankshaft if it's not, don't ask me how I know!) while you're pulling it in. Once the crank is in and fully seated, you SHOULD be able to slide the right side case half on without any trouble and check to make sure that the crank is rolling over easily. Once you know the crank is going to roll over easily, you can yank the right side back off and assemble the transmission into the left side case. Apply your sealant to the right side case and slide it over. Once the right side case is down onto the locator dowels, you can sit the bottom end up straight on the bench and install and tighten case screws.

As SOON as the screws are all tightened, spin the transmission input shaft (the one the clutch goes on) and click through all of the gears. This is something the book doesn't cover but is a REAL time saver in case something is wrong in there. You can find it out now while it's easy to pull back apart versus once you've got the engine in the quad and it won't go anywhere!

Now THAT is priceless information ladies and gentelman. This fella needs lots and lots and lots of GREEN. I:II:II:I (there needs to be an applauding smiley!)
 
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I have a clymer's sitting on the shelf right above the work bench. I can tell you the head size, thread pitch, and torque spec on pretty much every nut and bolt on a blaster from memory and STILL go and refer to the manual on a regular basis. It's a helpful piece of literature.

Try pulling the crank into the left side case using the crank puller (install the 2 M8 studs into the holes provided) making SURE that the rod is hanging out of the cylinder hole (it will damage the crankshaft if it's not, don't ask me how I know!) while you're pulling it in. Once the crank is in and fully seated, you SHOULD be able to slide the right side case half on without any trouble and check to make sure that the crank is rolling over easily. Once you know the crank is going to roll over easily, you can yank the right side back off and assemble the transmission into the left side case. Apply your sealant to the right side case and slide it over. Once the right side case is down onto the locator dowels, you can sit the bottom end up straight on the bench and install and tighten case screws.

As SOON as the screws are all tightened, spin the transmission input shaft (the one the clutch goes on) and click through all of the gears. This is something the book doesn't cover but is a REAL time saver in case something is wrong in there. You can find it out now while it's easy to pull back apart versus once you've got the engine in the quad and it won't go anywhere!

Thank you! Max rep given! I will be sure to follow you steps closely, because obviously you know more then me! And I don't want to make the same mistakes that other people have if I can avoid it