What the best piston???
- Thread starter Blasterman96
- Start date
depends do you have money for the best? do you have patience? if yes to both then wiseco! wiseco is a forged piston, so it requires a longer time to warm up and requires more piston to cylinder clearance therefore also makes more noise it is a better quality piston though in my opinion wiseco is the best choice.
the namura is a cast piston, its cheaper it requires less warm up time and is quiter but if it does shatter it can cause more horrific results but there is guys on here that run cast pistons and love them! so its up to you man
the namura is a cast piston, its cheaper it requires less warm up time and is quiter but if it does shatter it can cause more horrific results but there is guys on here that run cast pistons and love them! so its up to you man
Here's a good read that might help answer your questions...
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/joeak47s-thread-cast-piston-vs-wiseco-forged-piston-49255/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/joeak47s-thread-cast-piston-vs-wiseco-forged-piston-49255/
The two pistons with their typical fails:
Cast alloy is hard and more tolerant of close fits, it expands less and has a surface that slides better and holds oil better. Less friction, slightly more power, less expansion, less wear and more scuff resistant due to the silicon in the mix. Cracks and breaks when subjected to too much clearance, heat and/or rpm.
Forged is a softer, bends rather than cracks, but scuffs and smears, welds deposits of aluminum onto the cylinder bore if overheated. Takes a slow warm up or you get this "4 square" seize shown on the right. One quick warm up and you are $150 in the hole...
Cast alloy is hard and more tolerant of close fits, it expands less and has a surface that slides better and holds oil better. Less friction, slightly more power, less expansion, less wear and more scuff resistant due to the silicon in the mix. Cracks and breaks when subjected to too much clearance, heat and/or rpm.
Forged is a softer, bends rather than cracks, but scuffs and smears, welds deposits of aluminum onto the cylinder bore if overheated. Takes a slow warm up or you get this "4 square" seize shown on the right. One quick warm up and you are $150 in the hole...
IMO i recommend the forged (wiseco)
Those pics are pistons that iv ran ^
the piston on the left cost me an engine case...X(
i have one wiseco with twice the ware and no engine damage.
nothing wrong with cast forged seems to be alittle more forgiving for us harder riders.:-[
Those pics are pistons that iv ran ^
the piston on the left cost me an engine case...X(
i have one wiseco with twice the ware and no engine damage.
nothing wrong with cast forged seems to be alittle more forgiving for us harder riders.:-[
Depends on how well you take care of your engine and know your specs are within tolerance. If you are... either will do. Else go with the wiseco.... it can handle a lot more abuse before it fails.
I a believer, that breaking in a new top end. Is about the same as breaking in brand new atv.
Take it easy on it for the first few takes of gas !. Dont go ripping it, no burnouts, wheelies and full speed runs. dont have to granny it, just dont ride it hard.
One thing that I notice with 2 strokes compared to 4 strokes. It seems to take longer for it to fully break in. Mostly due to the gas/oil in 2 strokes.
its softer on the motor, so takes a little longer. Some of it may be linked to our riding styles here.
But it took about 1.5 hours on the 4 stroke before the rings even seated. the 2 stroke seems to take a longer.
When I worked at a bike shop, the new bikes, we would add a small amount of 2 cycle oil into the first tank of gas. But on a 2 cycle, well, you already doing that !
Im not a big believer of the heat cycles, except for checking gaskets, re torqing. I feel its best to break in a top end, ect, under rider load.
But still recommend a warm. Im not a fan of start and go.
Sporty
Take it easy on it for the first few takes of gas !. Dont go ripping it, no burnouts, wheelies and full speed runs. dont have to granny it, just dont ride it hard.
One thing that I notice with 2 strokes compared to 4 strokes. It seems to take longer for it to fully break in. Mostly due to the gas/oil in 2 strokes.
its softer on the motor, so takes a little longer. Some of it may be linked to our riding styles here.
But it took about 1.5 hours on the 4 stroke before the rings even seated. the 2 stroke seems to take a longer.
When I worked at a bike shop, the new bikes, we would add a small amount of 2 cycle oil into the first tank of gas. But on a 2 cycle, well, you already doing that !
Im not a big believer of the heat cycles, except for checking gaskets, re torqing. I feel its best to break in a top end, ect, under rider load.
But still recommend a warm. Im not a fan of start and go.
Sporty
The two pistons with their typical fails:
Cast alloy is hard and more tolerant of close fits, it expands less and has a surface that slides better and holds oil better. Less friction, slightly more power, less expansion, less wear and more scuff resistant due to the silicon in the mix. Cracks and breaks when subjected to too much clearance, heat and/or rpm.
Forged is a softer, bends rather than cracks, but scuffs and smears, welds deposits of aluminum onto the cylinder bore if overheated. Takes a slow warm up or you get this "4 square" seize shown on the right. One quick warm up and you are $150 in the hole...
I am curious about those pistons, I know the skirt is a common failure on these bad boys.
Recently seen a crack in the piston on my 3rd blaster build. Turns out, stock piston and cylinder wall had bottom end wear. Machien shop guy, says shes needs a bore !
So, cutting to the chase. I notice soem serious blow buy on those 2 pistons ! which leads me to think, they were way over due or a new set or rings or replacement before failure.
I know, just like me, I have gotten older blasters, to restore / rebuild.
Id be really interested in some long term info, a good post. many of you blaster owners likley have rebuilt a few times. and how you rode it.
How many hours are you really seeing out of a blaster before it needs rebuild ?
Sporty
This is also what I do! If you don't own an infrared heat gun or have a temp probe on your motor, to me it's another one of the must haves in tools. They are cheap and work good!
In my opinion, Yamaha built the most reliable long lasting Blasters ever and people who haven't a clue convert them into worthless junk.
Hours will depend on use. I don't really know about Blasters, but my KTM 125 went 7 years and thousands of miles on the first (cast) piston and rings. It was abuse (water immersion) that killed it.
I drove Triplecrown's DT200 for several years as a hack bike before he bought it from me. I lent it out when friends came over who wanted to ride. It did not get a very hard life, it rattled when I bought it, and had a cracked piston when we opened it up to see why 4 years later. They will go forever if you ride them moderately. Full revs and full power? Well, it will need more attention.
I have a suspicion that the tall Blaster pistons have a weak skirt design. Many I've pulled out were smaller at the skirt than should have been. I do not know the story behind the two pistons in the picture unfortunately. Blow by can be the result of bore glazing, ring overheat and tension loss, carbon, or a dozen other things. Also both show signs of overheating, likely from lean mixture, air leaks? The forged piston on right is a 4 square heat seize.
Cheap oil, cheap gas, air leaks, abuse, it is a wonder they hold up at all.
Similar threads
