should i use when i drill my carb for an idle screw?can i use the same screw that is used for the air screw?i looked at the idle kits but they want almost $30 for them.then screw in them almost looks the same as the air screw
what kind screw
- Thread starter stephen12091985
- Start date
i think u have to thread it...... i would jsut get the kit so theres no place for error. otherwise another member can tell u the right sizes
yeah they have to be threaded in(drilled and tapped), it goes in a little post thats to the left of where the fuel line connects, you'll see it, it sticks out about 1/2" and has an agled end on it that must be filed flat, to be able to drill it
go to the dealer and see if they have any idle screws, i paid like $3 one time for one with a big head that can be turned by hand, it was the kind that takes a little spring behind it to keep pressure on it so it dont back out, i used a peice of left over spring from the front cable brakes on a parts bike, then take the new idle screw to the hardware store and get the drill bit and tap to match it, unscrew the cap, pull the slide out, shove a rag in there, to try and keep the filings outta the carb, and be sure to get tham all out with a good carb cleaning, total under 15 bucks
it looks like this setup, but im sure this is too small, it's for r/c cars
http://cgi.ebay.com/Dynamite-Slide-...s?hash=item5ad2d3cb29&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116
go to the dealer and see if they have any idle screws, i paid like $3 one time for one with a big head that can be turned by hand, it was the kind that takes a little spring behind it to keep pressure on it so it dont back out, i used a peice of left over spring from the front cable brakes on a parts bike, then take the new idle screw to the hardware store and get the drill bit and tap to match it, unscrew the cap, pull the slide out, shove a rag in there, to try and keep the filings outta the carb, and be sure to get tham all out with a good carb cleaning, total under 15 bucks
it looks like this setup, but im sure this is too small, it's for r/c cars
http://cgi.ebay.com/Dynamite-Slide-...s?hash=item5ad2d3cb29&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116
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ok so i went to the dealer and got an idle screw and then went and got a tap and bit.so do i need to get a spring now?
and very good details on how to do it.rep points
and very good details on how to do it.rep points
sorry was away from the puter for a bit, but it should be the green one, is it angled on the end??, thats where youhave to file it flat so you can get the drill bit started, and yes find a little spring and put it on the screw before you thread it in, so it puts outward pressure on it to keep it from unscrewing, holler...........
they are all a lil bit angled.and there is already a hole in right there but dont go all the way threw.what does it do hold the slide up?
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yes, when you pull or pulled the slide you should see an angled notch on the bottom about a 1/4 inch wide, that has to go back in facing the new idle screw, the new screw rides in and out on that notch and makes it go up and down, adjusting the idle
and the other side will have a thin slot the whole length of the slide, inside the barrel of the carb on the oposite side is a little pin that it lines up with and it slides on, it has to go that way, dont force it, and look inside the intake side and make sure the needle is going down inside its hole on the floor of the carb
when you get it together, first work your throttle to make sure your slide is working up and down, then screw the new idle screw in till you feel it just touch the slide, then maybe another 1/2 turn to start, then try to get it running, if it doesnt start, turn it another 1/2 turn at a time till it idles, then you can adjust it to where the motor sounds like it did before, dont start out with it turned in to far or the motor is gonna idle way to high, start slow and work it till it idles, and make sure you got all the metal shavings out of it, spray the hell outta all the inlets and vents, and thru all openings,
holler
and the other side will have a thin slot the whole length of the slide, inside the barrel of the carb on the oposite side is a little pin that it lines up with and it slides on, it has to go that way, dont force it, and look inside the intake side and make sure the needle is going down inside its hole on the floor of the carb
when you get it together, first work your throttle to make sure your slide is working up and down, then screw the new idle screw in till you feel it just touch the slide, then maybe another 1/2 turn to start, then try to get it running, if it doesnt start, turn it another 1/2 turn at a time till it idles, then you can adjust it to where the motor sounds like it did before, dont start out with it turned in to far or the motor is gonna idle way to high, start slow and work it till it idles, and make sure you got all the metal shavings out of it, spray the hell outta all the inlets and vents, and thru all openings,
holler
ok i see what ur talking about on the slide.the idle screw i got from the dealer is a lil to small so im gonna take it back tomorrow and get another one and i will have to take the tap back also and get another one.the one i got is just barely to small the wont have any thread to hold it in.thanks for the help i now know how to do it.you should put up a d.i.y. on how to do this
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