You would have to try real hard to eff-up. Fine compound probably ain't even 220 grit, almost a polishing compound. Even if you mod your plate (or not) it's not a bad thing to do to a crank/flywheel. Especially if you are using different parts.
Vito's +4 timing degree key help
- Thread starter *Quad*King*1986
- Start date
I believe that lapping the flywheel to the shaft should be only used as a last resort.
If the flywheel and shaft show no signs of scoring, and they have not spun and sheared a key, it should be safe to install without interferance by lapping.
The shearing of a key is usually caused by the motor coming to a abrupt halt, such as a heavy stall, or by hitting something whilst in gear in motion.
I have never had a flywheel that is in good condition, which has been tensioned to specs, spin yet.
If you have any concerns, install the key, put the flywheel on and nip up the nut about 20 ft lbs, remove the nut and try to get the flywheel off by hand, by wobbling and tapping it a little with a hide mallet or a soft bit of wood.
If the flywheel comes off, then you are going to have to lap it.
If it stays on, put the nut back on, tension it up, and I would confidently say "it ain't gonna spin".
If the flywheel and shaft show no signs of scoring, and they have not spun and sheared a key, it should be safe to install without interferance by lapping.
The shearing of a key is usually caused by the motor coming to a abrupt halt, such as a heavy stall, or by hitting something whilst in gear in motion.
I have never had a flywheel that is in good condition, which has been tensioned to specs, spin yet.
If you have any concerns, install the key, put the flywheel on and nip up the nut about 20 ft lbs, remove the nut and try to get the flywheel off by hand, by wobbling and tapping it a little with a hide mallet or a soft bit of wood.
If the flywheel comes off, then you are going to have to lap it.
If it stays on, put the nut back on, tension it up, and I would confidently say "it ain't gonna spin".
Okay... So if I torque the nut to 20lbs and then remove nut and try to take my flywheel off it should stay in place if everything is okay? (even if I slightly tap/wobble it around and try to force it off by hand?) I've never removed a flywheel before in my life, so I'm making sure I got this right. I would think that if the nut is removed the flywheel will pull right off no matter how much pressure was on the nut before. (I guess I just don't understand the basics of it yet) once I actually see it and mess around with one I will get a better understanding. But bottom line is that you think It will be fine w/o the lapping as long as there are not score's etc... On it?
A flywheel that is on the shaft properly requires a flywheel puller to remove, some times you even have to smack the center bolt of puller to "coax" it off. I would think that Blaaster's test is a viable option. The torque he suggested is about half of required to seat. So if it sticks at that tourque, you'll be good at full spec.
I'm going on the other end, and saying lap that flywheel! If the key sheared off good chance pieces have ground/stratched/the flywheel mating surface and/or the shaft surface. It takes less than 35 seconds to do this easy as pie task and will insure you have the best mounting surface!
Your taking a chance by not doing it! It may be ok or may not! just sayin!
Your taking a chance by not doing it! It may be ok or may not! just sayin!
I dont believe the key has spun, so I feel that a lap may not be required.
A flywheel that comes off clean should need no attention, and should fit right back up as well.
However, if there any iregularities or signs of scoring, and you are concerned about the flywheel slipping, nothing will be lost by lapping the wheel and shaft with fine compound.
If you do lap, make very sure you remove all, and I emphasize, all the compound.
Ya my stock key is fine & has not sheare off or anything like that, I just got the +4 key so I could gain a nice little boost to my bottom/midrange, after reading everyone's post so far I've came to the conclusion it won't hurt me to lap it. I will look for lapping compound today at a local hardware store ( but just to be clear on this ) your saying I need to remove all the compound after lapping? So I should put a little blob on lap it around until I get an even finish and then wipe off any remaining compound with a clean rag? Or is there a better way to remove the compound? I believe I am getting my hands on a flywheel puller today so I will let you guys know how it all played out. I'm excited and kinda nervous at the same time lol
Yes wipe of all residue, I use a little kerosene or gas whatever is handy on a rag after I did the first wipe to remove any residual. then a clean paper towel ofter that! make sure you clean both surfaces flywheel and shaft!
Be sure to back center bolt of puller almost all the way out (or just remove it) to ensure that the LEFT HANDED THREADS of the puller fully thread into flywheel. ONLY use a Blaster flywheel puller, no 2-3 jaw, hammer/crow bar action here.
No lick on borrowing the puller today, should happen tomorrow though, and also no luck on the lapping compound either! I tried sears hardware and autozone but neither one had it... I might skip lapping it if it looks okay, but now I'm paranoid & feel like I have to do it haha. If I end up doing it I will be sure to remove it all from both surfaces and thread it all the way in
An old fashioned non chain auto parts would have it, maybe speed shop, tractor dealer. Look online.
When I was inside autozone & couldn't find it I proceeded to ask one of the sales associates and they told me that they had stopped carrying lapping compound since it is one of their smaller locations, but if I went to s bigger autozone that was about 20 minutes away I could get it, or I could just go to a pepboys that is right around the corner from me. Thing is I don't drive for about 5 more months so it is hard to get to point A & B once I get my license back finding parts will be a hell of a lot easier
