Trenga Rear Brakes (Can They Be Improved)

[DKavcak]

Hello!

So I bought a Trenga Gen3 Rear Caliper setup from a fellow member (Jesse Colon) on here.

I know these Gen3's have questionable braking abilities as well as a fairly unknown status on what parts were used/sourced.

Let me give some background on why I decided to buy this:

• I used to play the crap out of ATV Offroad Fury 2, and my go-to quad was the Trenga Racing Blaster
• It was cheap
• Red is a pretty color
• I like keeping parts period correct on older machines
• If for some reason I cannot get this to work, I can always use the parts from this setup to make another hydraulic conversion

So I knew when I bought this kit that I would have to do some digging around to figure out what does/does not work.

This is what I've figured out:

• Enginetics made the master cylinder (I will find out what part number it is later)
• It uses Enginetics 303 brake pads
• The Slide Pins are essentially stepped collars that use 5/16"-20 or 5/16"-18 bolts
• They use springs to retract the slides (I've never seen that before. EVER)
• It appears that the MCP 1375P12 Rear Caliper is a direct replacement for this kit

I have measured the springs and the slide insert:

Here is a picture of the slide/bolt/spring assembly:

So doing some research, I've found out that the springs seem to be major issue with this setup (I wonder why ).
I tried to squeeze the spring with my fingers and I couldn't. There is NO spring to this...er...spring.

I ended up finding bolts at my job and a lower spring-rate spring that I cut up into (4) smaller springs:

For the collet/slide insert, well, I might have to make my buddy Sutty make it for me if I can't find one at a hardware store; thank goodness we got an in-house machine shop at my job.

 

[Larry's Shee]

Unless that spring is shot from excess heat, it may not have been right to begin with.
While an interesting theory, if it were practical, you’d see it employed on new cars trying to get every inch out of a drop of gas. I get the period correct, but anything produced until 2006 would be period correct.
Hot toddlers have always been adapting parts for increased performance. Good luck with your project

 

[DKavcak]

Unless that spring is shot from excess heat, it may not have been right to begin with.
While an interesting theory, if it were practical, you’d see it employed on new cars trying to get every inch out of a drop of gas. I get the period correct, but anything produced until 2006 would be period correct.
Hot toddlers have always been adapting parts for increased performance. Good luck with your project

The issue is Eric Trenga was a bit of a shady character. Things would either not get made, get made but haphazardly, or you'd get something good.

These are a case of "I'll take your money and give you something crappy. You're paying for MY name."

It's an interesting bit of kit that I'm determined to make reliable enough to use. If not, well, shoot me in the face with a brick.

 

[DKavcak]

Ok, so good news for anyone that still has this setup; parts are still available.
Here are the parts that Trenga used:

• Enginetics 600 Master Cylinder (7/8" Bore)
  
• Enginetics 700B Caliper

Neither of these parts are available anymore.

The replacement master cylinder is a MCP 875. They will set you back about $70 before shipping.
As far as I can tell, the caliper replacement is a MCP1375, but I'm unsure of the final designation.

The good news is, the Enginetics parts still have full rebuild kits availble.
Lucky me.

 

[DKavcak]

 

[Slydog]

Where did you find the trenga set-up

 

[DKavcak]

I got them off of a fellow member here: Jesse Colon

 

[Slydog]

I got them off of a fellow member here: Jesse Colon

Get it up And running?

 

[DKavcak]

Get it up And running?

Well...no. It looks pretty though.

So here are the current issues:

• The original Enginetics Master Cylinder had some serious corrosion on it. I cleared out the corrosion, but I fear it might have a pit somewhere in the bore that the rebuild kit isn't sealing properly or is pulling air
• Both the MCP 875 I have and the Enginetics Master WILL NOT bleed. I just got back to work on Tuesday, so I made a setup so I can make a gravity bleeder.
• The springs I made and the replacement springs may be too stiff for the 7/8" bore master cylinders

I had to modify the spacing bracket that goes between the mount and the caliper since the aluminum swelled and wouldn't go over the caliper bolts.

There was also an alarming amount of rust that came out of the calipers and lines, which is odd because DOT5 is silicone-based.

 

[Slydog]

Well...no. It looks pretty though.

So here are the current issues:

• The original Enginetics Master Cylinder had some serious corrosion on it. I cleared out the corrosion, but I fear it might have a pit somewhere in the bore that the rebuild kit isn't sealing properly or is pulling air
• Both the MCP 875 I have and the Enginetics Master WILL NOT bleed. I just got back to work on Tuesday, so I made a setup so I can make a gravity bleeder.
• The springs I made and the replacement springs may be too stiff for the 7/8" bore master cylinders

I had to modify the spacing bracket that goes between the mount and the caliper since the aluminum swelled and wouldn't go over the caliper bolts.

There was also an alarming amount of rust that came out of the calipers and lines, which is odd because DOT5 is silicone-based.

You think dot 4 could've been used prior
Or contaminated dot 5. It must have got moisture in it at some time

 

[DKavcak]

MCP 875 (I used this Master Cylinder)

Enginetics 600 (This thing is totally wiped out and leaked fluid, even after the rebuild)

The full setup

Conclusion:
It's better than stock, but they still suck.

 

[DKavcak]

Here's why the Trenga/Enginetics setup is so bad:

• The lines naturally kink due to where the master cylinder is located
• The lines are higher than than the master cylinder, so they are impossible to bleed
• The 7/8" bore master cylinders cannot overcome gravity enough to apply enough pressure to make the caliper pistons move adequately
• There is not a remote reservoir to allow fluid to feed via gravity into the master; it is a sealed setup, so whatever is in the master cylinder is all you have
• You have to modify your foot guard
• Adapting a go-kart setup for an ATV is not ideal due to size/layout

I want to see if I can't bleed the brakes with the caliper dangling below the ATV since it takes about two hours to get all the air out of the system with the current setup. Perhaps if I can bleed it that way, it may work.

 

[Slydog]

Here's why the Trenga/Enginetics setup is so bad:

• The lines naturally kink due to where the master cylinder is located
• The lines are higher than than the master cylinder, so they are impossible to bleed
• The 7/8" bore master cylinders cannot overcome gravity enough to apply enough pressure to make the caliper pistons move adequately
• There is not a remote reservoir to allow fluid to feed via gravity into the master; it is a sealed setup, so whatever is in the master cylinder is all you have
• You have to modify your foot guard
• Adapting a go-kart setup for an ATV is not ideal due to size/layout

I want to see if I can't bleed the brakes with the caliper dangling below the ATV since it takes about two hours to get all the air out of the system with the current setup. Perhaps if I can bleed it that way, it may work.

Try a vacuum bleeder? Without sicking master dry.if you take caliper off to bleed put something between brake pads about thickness of rotor so pistons don't come out to far
Can you get after market calipers. I see you bought the master cylinder. It looks like a very simple setup. Especially the master it be helpful for others?

 

[Slydog]

are those compression fittings on that master?looks like a feral setup

 

[DKavcak]

Try a vacuum bleeder? Without sicking master dry.if you take caliper off to bleed put something between brake pads about thickness of rotor so pistons don't come out to far
Can you get after market calipers. I see you bought the master cylinder. It looks like a very simple setup. Especially the master it be helpful for others?

Tried that; doesn't work.
The new equivalent caliper is an MCP 1375, but that isn't the issue. The issue is a lack of pressure building.

are those compression fittings on that master?looks like a feral setup

So the new master cylinder came with new compression fittings, but my lines are a tad different. The lines with the Trenga setup are +2 length and they're AN fittings, like what you use on a nitrous setup.
The threads are the same, so they don't leak though.

 

[Slydog]

Tried that; doesn't work.
The new equivalent caliper is an MCP 1375, but that isn't the issue. The issue is a lack of pressure building.


So the new master cylinder came with new compression fittings, but my lines are a tad different. The lines with the Trenga setup are +2 length and they're AN fittings, like what you use on a nitrous setup.
The threads are the same, so they don't leak though.

You try moving your pedal linkage up one hole on master to get more throw on master. An fittings are 37degree flares verses 45 degree flares on normal fittings

 

[DKavcak]

You try moving your pedal linkage up one hole on master to get more throw on master. An fittings are 37degree flares verses 45 degree flares on normal fittings

The issue with that is the heim joint hits one of the frame notches. If I move it to the upper most notch, it smacks the frame notch and reduces my throw by about 50%.

And the master cylinder had some odd angle fitting, but you're probably right. I've never had to use any sort of angled fitting on ANY vehicle I've owned or worked on.

I'd rather not cut anything off of the frame because...well, I'd rather not. I'm most likely too big to be on the Blaster anyways, so I'd rather leave the frame alone.

 

[Slydog]

The issue with that is the heim joint hits one of the frame notches. If I move it to the upper most notch, it smacks the frame notch and reduces my throw by about 50%.

And the master cylinder had some odd angle fitting, but you're probably right. I've never had to use any sort of angled fitting on ANY vehicle I've owned or worked on.

I'd rather not cut anything off of the frame because...well, I'd rather not. I'm most likely too big to be on the Blaster anyways, so I'd rather leave the frame alone.

The poor frame is probably struggling already

 

[DKavcak]

The poor frame is probably struggling already

You're probably not wrong. I don't think they were meant for 6'0" 265lbs mountain people.

 

[Slydog]

You're probably not wrong. I don't think they were meant for 6'0" 265lbs mountain people.

I think that's why they came out with 4x4 utilitys